D16Y8 Fault code P0122 TPS/Pedal Position
Hello, I have a 1999 Honda Civic EX/D16Y8
The other day I noticed the check engine light popped on...
The car didnt really act different.
I took it to Advance Auto and they hooked their machine and gave a print out of what the computer was reporting.
it reads:
___________
Global OBDII
DTC (Codes)
P0122
TPS/Pedal Position
Sensor A
Circuit Low Input
DTC Pending (Codes)
No Faults Detected
____________
Id like to get to the bottom of this, If anyone can help that would be great.
Specificly, Id like to know if I need to replace the TPS being that I have this fault code. Do I have to get a new throttle body? Is there anything else that would give me this fault code?
Thanks,
Chris
Modified by chrisknight at 4:53 PM 1/31/2005
Modified by chrisknight at 2:53 AM 2/1/2005
The other day I noticed the check engine light popped on...
The car didnt really act different.
I took it to Advance Auto and they hooked their machine and gave a print out of what the computer was reporting.
it reads:
___________
Global OBDII
DTC (Codes)
P0122
TPS/Pedal Position
Sensor A
Circuit Low Input
DTC Pending (Codes)
No Faults Detected
____________
Id like to get to the bottom of this, If anyone can help that would be great.
Specificly, Id like to know if I need to replace the TPS being that I have this fault code. Do I have to get a new throttle body? Is there anything else that would give me this fault code?
Thanks,
Chris
Modified by chrisknight at 4:53 PM 1/31/2005
Modified by chrisknight at 2:53 AM 2/1/2005
To replace the TPS, you're going to have to source one from junkyard - Honda doesn't sell just the TPS....they sell the whole damn TBody and that ain't cheap by any stretch.
In order to get the TPS off, you're going to have to get a Dremmel and cut a slot into the screw head so that you can use a flathead screwdriver to get'em out. Then you're going to have to make sure that the TPS is set right using a multi-meter - needs to be <.49v @ idle.
Aside from that....have you made any changes lately or done any maintenance?
In order to get the TPS off, you're going to have to get a Dremmel and cut a slot into the screw head so that you can use a flathead screwdriver to get'em out. Then you're going to have to make sure that the TPS is set right using a multi-meter - needs to be <.49v @ idle.
Aside from that....have you made any changes lately or done any maintenance?
Thanks for the reply...
I havent done any modifications/upgrades/changes to this car ever, and there is no visual damage to anything under the hood (or anywhere else).
It is stock in every way.
The only thing I have done on this car was change plugs, wires, rotor, and cap 1 year ago and changed the oil when it needs it...
Im curious if it actually is the TPS or something else causing it... Guess I dont know enough about it.
I am quite handy with a multi-meter and someone else suggested the following:
Disconnect the TPS and connect a voltmeter across the Green/black and yellow/blue wires, with the ignition in the run position you should have around 5 volts.
If so turn ignition off reconnect TPS and the back probe the red/black wire with something like a safety pin, so that you think you have made contact with the terminal inside the connector.
Now connect the voltmeter to the probe and ground. With the ignition on and at closed throttle you should have about .5 of a volt, wide open should be around 4.5 volts.
While your moving the throttle you should see a smooth change in the voltage and not jumping from one extreme to the other.
If you have all of the above the TPS is ok or has an intermittent problem that isn’t showing at this time.
If you don’t have the voltage in the first step then you’ll need to get involved with the wiring and or computer with a whole other set of pin checks.
I guess Ill check it out...
Is the TPS located right on the TBody? I figure it is...
Thanks,
Chris
I havent done any modifications/upgrades/changes to this car ever, and there is no visual damage to anything under the hood (or anywhere else).
It is stock in every way.
The only thing I have done on this car was change plugs, wires, rotor, and cap 1 year ago and changed the oil when it needs it...
Im curious if it actually is the TPS or something else causing it... Guess I dont know enough about it.
I am quite handy with a multi-meter and someone else suggested the following:
Disconnect the TPS and connect a voltmeter across the Green/black and yellow/blue wires, with the ignition in the run position you should have around 5 volts.
If so turn ignition off reconnect TPS and the back probe the red/black wire with something like a safety pin, so that you think you have made contact with the terminal inside the connector.
Now connect the voltmeter to the probe and ground. With the ignition on and at closed throttle you should have about .5 of a volt, wide open should be around 4.5 volts.
While your moving the throttle you should see a smooth change in the voltage and not jumping from one extreme to the other.
If you have all of the above the TPS is ok or has an intermittent problem that isn’t showing at this time.
If you don’t have the voltage in the first step then you’ll need to get involved with the wiring and or computer with a whole other set of pin checks.
I guess Ill check it out...
Is the TPS located right on the TBody? I figure it is...
Thanks,
Chris
Yes, looking at your TB you will see the throttle rotor with the throttle cable connected to it. The TPS sensor is on the exactly opposite side of of the rotor, its connected to the butterfly, but across from the rotor, so on a y8, it would be on the BACK of the TB. Or if looking at it from the passengers fender, would be on the left side of the TB.
Good luck sir!
Good luck sir!
Great! Thanks for the reply!
Does anyone know if a 1998 Honda civic ex throttle body will work on a 1999 Civic EX?
Does vtec matter? Mine is VTEC but I dont know if the one this guy has came off of a VTEC engine...
Thanks,
Chris
Does anyone know if a 1998 Honda civic ex throttle body will work on a 1999 Civic EX?
Does vtec matter? Mine is VTEC but I dont know if the one this guy has came off of a VTEC engine...
Thanks,
Chris
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OK... Just checked and I still have a check engine llight.
I checked the connector coming off of the TPS with it disconnected and I have exactly 5 volts between the green/black and the yellow/blue.
Good, I have the proper voltage...
Whats confusing is the following:
I plugged the connector in and put my multi-meters ground on the engine block and the main lead on the red/black wire, and with throttle closed I have .5 volts. Wide open throttle I have 4.5 volts. ...and opening the throttle slowly I see an even increse in voltage untill it hits full throttle at 4.5 volts.
From what I see The TPS is acting normal but when I fire the car up, I still have a check engine light...
There is another sensor on TOP of the throttle body... Whats that?
Thanks,
Chris
I checked the connector coming off of the TPS with it disconnected and I have exactly 5 volts between the green/black and the yellow/blue.
Good, I have the proper voltage...
Whats confusing is the following:
I plugged the connector in and put my multi-meters ground on the engine block and the main lead on the red/black wire, and with throttle closed I have .5 volts. Wide open throttle I have 4.5 volts. ...and opening the throttle slowly I see an even increse in voltage untill it hits full throttle at 4.5 volts.
From what I see The TPS is acting normal but when I fire the car up, I still have a check engine light...
There is another sensor on TOP of the throttle body... Whats that?
Thanks,
Chris
the one on the top is your map sensor, what I would do since the voltage is coming back in spec is disconnect your battery for 5-10 mins, this wil reset your ecu, and the codes. if the code returns then continue with more trouble shooting.. hope this helps
The sensor on the top is the MAP sensor.
Disconnect your negative battery terminal for 5-10 minutes, this will clear your ECU of stored codes/your CEL. See if the CEL comes back. This will tell you if there is an actual problem or perhaps just a fluke.
Disconnect your negative battery terminal for 5-10 minutes, this will clear your ECU of stored codes/your CEL. See if the CEL comes back. This will tell you if there is an actual problem or perhaps just a fluke.
Hello - I removed the - battery cable for 15 min and hooked it back up... My check engine light is now off. Drove it for about 2 days, all good. Weird.
Thanks for all your help!
Chris
Thanks for all your help!
Chris
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