Hi, I'm workin' on a B-series motor I have sitting outside of my car, so I'm doing some routine maintenance b4 I drop it in my car. Anyways, I'm stuck right now on the crank bolt - I've tried a impact driver and no good. I've done it b4 on my old LS motor for underdrive pulleys and it came off (took a while). I'm just afraid of messing up the bolt or something. I've tried wd-40, pb blaster, etc... and nothing, I dunno if my impact driver is acting up (not the same one I had b4), but can someone give some advice as how 2 go about doing it - since its my 1st timing belt (btw, I set it to TDC). Thanks


[Modified by SKiLLz-R, 1:15 AM 1/15/2002]

 

You need a good impact gun and @140 psi of air.

 

I was thinkin bout a air-gun. but I don't have a compressor and all I have is a dewalt electric impact wrench (which I think isn't working right). Is there a way I could lock up the pulley so I can remove it with a breaker bar?

 

air gun and 200 for me.

 

i work in a shop and i have trouble with the crank bolt all the time. i've even got the strongs impact gun in the shop and still no good. to remedy this problem what i do is get a big pair of channellocks(pliers) and breaker bar with a 6 foot cheater pipe. with the channelocks grab the pulley and secure it(this will slightly damage the pulley)not a biggy though. i just clean up the pulley with a file. then use the breakerbar and cheater pipe and start turning. Works all the time.
OR
you can get the tool that moroso makes. i wish i had that tool. oh how i dream.

 

I tried that breaker bar bit... and all it did was move my car on the jack stands..
so I bought and air gun and compressor...
still didn't work so I put VTEC On my compressor and boosted the pressure to 150 psi..

with the psi and a fwe QUICK SHORT BLASTS of the gun
the bolt came right off

it needs the shock to break the bolt free .. not just torque


[Modified by Crazydave, 9:09 AM 1/15/2002]

 

stick a screwdriver in the flywheel teeth to stop the motor from turning, dont try to "grab the pulley with channelocks"

 

the screwdriver in the fly teeth always worked for me, took an extra forever and i was always afraid a breaking a tooth, but it worked. Needs an extra person to use foot power on the breaker bar tho.

I use a 500lb impact wrench at 90 psi now. it still needs lots of wd40 and time. Impact wrenches are all about the hammering "shock," as opposed to continuous torque. that's why they call em impact wrenches.

If the gun is rated to use 90psi, then more could damage it. I started with a 350lbs gun and had to pop it up to 125psi to get anything off. I just took the bloody thing back.

Definatley recommend a "twin hammer" design over the wimpier "pin clutch" mechanism.

I understand electric impact gun ratings are a farce.

Anyway, just my experiences

d

 

I did that screwdriver thingy one time, except I grabbed a "punch" bit... I put my impact on the pully bolt gave it a rip and the punch broke in half and shot across the shop like a missle... That thing really took off and I was thankful it didn't hit anyone... very dangerous indeed...

 

smacking the bolt head with a hammer a few times sometimes helps.

 

yeah the tool is nice, I bought one cause my impact at 140psi would not work.

The tool is like 80 bucks.

If you were near me, I would let you borrow it.

 

thanks 4 da feedback. I dunno whats holdin the damn thing in on, I'm still working on it (its outside of my car in my shed and its about 30-40deg. in CT).
-I tried heating it, impact wrench (lost 2 IMPACT sockets)

-I tried cranking the motor and having a breaker bar on the crank bolt, but dunno how to do it since the motor's out of the car.

I'm gonna try locking the flywheel (since I'm replacing it anyways) and using a breaker bar.
Would hitting the head w/ a hammer really work, I feel like I've been doing it 4ever. I noticed it came off easier on my old LS, could it be easier w/ the motor in the car, or out of it? Thanks again.

 

Go to http://www.sptool.com and look under "new tools". This tool is made to hold the crank pulley while turning the bolt. Snap-on sells them for about $60. Dealers also sell them.

 

the shock from smacking it with a hammer usually helps- if you tighten something while vibrating it- you can make it much tighter. Same goes for loosening. Supposedly- japanese submarines had pipe fittings that were so tight- americans could not fathom how to loosen them- we were surprised to find that they had been tightened by HAND while being tapped.


[Modified by fixhondas, 10:23 PM 1/16/2002]

 

Well, I thought when u use a impact wrench it vibrates the bolt cuz its hitting it @ the same time - I'm not sure bout it. Either way, know the impact wrench I have is weak. 1 more question tho, when I have the impact on the bolt, shouldn't it turn the flywheel? It moves very slightly. I can only seem to get the bolt to turn about 1/2mm when I rock it, but it doesn't go anywhere else. lol, hope this ain't gods way of sayin "take it to a shop".

 

It would turn the flywheel if you had the spark plugs out of the head......pistons are trying to compress the air. If you really wanted to you would be able to turn it with a wrench.

 

if you're using an impact, you don't need to seize the motor with a screwdriver in the flywheel. the impact will just turn the crank pulley bolt and not the motor. the screwdriver-in-the-flywheel method is for using a breaker bar. and if your 500 ft/lb. impacts aren't doing the job, then you need to figure out how to apply more torque to the bolt. you = 200 lbs. breaker bar = 3 ft. Torque applied to bolt = 600 ft/lbs (assuming you are just dead weight on the very end of the breaker bar, which you wont' be, you'll be hopping on the bar, effectively applying even more torque). if it doesn't work, get your fatter friend and a longer bar. and for gods sake don't use a ratcheting wrench with a pipe slipped over the handle because you know damn well the little tiny ratcheting mechanism can't take that kind of pressure.

 

thankx ppl. I'm gonna try + get me a air compressor and a air wrench 4 this. Any info on the compressor, would the size matter? I hear u guys mentioning raising the boost, so would each size be limited to a certain psi, or could it be raised, at the reliability of the compressor?

 

if you are investing in an air compressor- get a dual stage capably of 175 psi. I believe the only 110 volt model I have seen is from sears. Most 2 stage compressors are 220 volt. You could buy a tank of CO2 and put a regulator on it to power air tools- but it will need refilled often.

 

Whassup Honda peoples! I go buy LoStreet94 and have been visiting this site for a while. Seems way more technical than all the other forums that I have found. Anyways we had this same problem only it was a 93 accord stock motor. It was actually my friends problem in the bay next to me. He was suppose to change the t-belt. We tried everything that all the rest of you have posted. Still wouldn't budge. Tried a 3/4 drive impact. No good. Tried a 1 INCH! impact which we had to borrow from another shop. Thought this would gun it off with ease but the bolt wouldn't budge. We are doing all this while keeping the motor from turning by using a chain wrench around the crank pulley like BuddhaSIR said earlier. Also like fixhondas said, we tried smacking the bolt with a hammer to help kind of break lose crap in between the threads. Gunned it again. No luck. This honda was being stubborn as hell. We tried heating it also with a torch. No luck. It actually melted the timing cover a lil and probaly ruined the crankshaft seal. Then after all that we got a hold of a 3/4" breaker and used a very long cheater bar "pipe" about 8-10 feet long. The honda was up on jackstands so we supported the cheater bar with another jack stand to keep the bar perfectly parrallel. Climbed up on a ladder to reach the end of our cheater bar. After some pulls, and a lot of flex, the bolt snapped and broke loose! It feels great to accomplish things! Upon inspection of the bolt, the last person that worked on the honda use LOKTITE RED!! Alot of it also! We had to clean up the crankshaft pulley with a file and replaced the bolt. Afterthat it was business as usual. Sorry for such a long post. If you want that bolt loose and don't want to spend alot of money than this is what you might have to do. Good luck. Hopes this helps.

 

when you finally get that bolt off, don't forget to put some engine oil on the threads so hopefully it won't sieze up again.

d

 

Finally got it off!!!! Got a new one to replace it from the dealer - old one was beat.
We used a long *** pipe on a breaker bar (I had to use a 18mm socket 'cuz the impact slowly ate off 1mm off of the bolt) and I had to lock the flywheel - but I didn't use the teeth, I used one of those 12pt bolts and prayed to god. After hammering on the socket, me and my boy started and the damn thing came off! It looked like it had that Loktite RED crap! I suspected it 'cuz the other bolts had loktite green and blue on 'em. Now since I got the bolt stuck to the socket, its chillin' in my room as a trophy -lol. Anyways, thanks 4 da help peeps l8r.

 

Its not how much pressure the compressor holds, but how much cfm it moves.

 

Is it possible to get this bolt off while the engine is in the car? So you have to take this pully off to get the timing belt off? I just skimed over this post, I probably missed somthing.

 

yes it is.