I was wondering if some of you could give me some feedback on my build to help me improve it. I've never built a motor before and I want to make sure this one is done right.

Ok first off... the LS bottom block I am buying spun the #3 bearing. The guy I am buying the block from said that the crank is still in good shape and just needs to be taken to a machine shop and be polished. Is there anything I should look for on this crank as far as other damage?

Also the #3 maincap is missing as well. Can I just buy a used one and will it fit fine?

The motor is going to be going in my daily driver. I drive like a grandma most of the time on the city roads. I plan on maybe running the car at the track maybe once a month or so. I would be revving the motor to 8000 RPMs. Are the stock LS rods strong enough if I use the ARP rod bolts? Also what size rod bolts would I need to go with?

So here are my plans so far for the build. Please let me know if I have something incorrect or if I should use a higher quality part.

PR3-2 Head (Stock)
Skunk 2 Intake Manifold
B18B Block
JDM P30 Pistons
OEM Rings (Will any rings fit the P30 pistons)
Stock LS Rods
ARP Rod Bolts (What size bolts do I need?)
ARP Head Studs (Will the GSR headstuds work?)
OEM Bearings
Golden Eagle LS/VTEC Kit
ITR Oil Pump
GSR Water Pump
OEM GSR Timing Belt
P28 ECU
LS Tranny (Until I save for a B16)
ACT Heavy Duty Preasure Plate & Clutch

As far as engine management goes I am looking into a Hondata system. I am leaning more towards the s200 system because of the additional features such as data logging.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shorto85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok first off... the LS bottom block I am buying spun the #3 bearing. The guy I am buying the block from said that the crank is still in good shape and just needs to be taken to a machine shop and be polished. Is there anything I should look for on this crank as far as other damage?

Also the #3 maincap is missing as well. Can I just buy a used one and will it fit fine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can't just slap any main cap on there. It'll have to be machined to match. Make him find the original.

Your machine shop will need to measure and determine if the crank is salvageable. I wouldn't just "take his word for it" unless he's a machinist.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Coyote1800cc &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can't just slap any main cap on there. It'll have to be machined to match. Make him find the original.

Your machine shop will need to measure and determine if the crank is salvageable. I wouldn't just "take his word for it" unless he's a machinist.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah I was going to have the machine shop check the crank. I wasnt sure about the maincap... thanks for clearing that up.

 

keep us updated. i want to see how much power you'll get out of that build up.

 

it would be easier to just buy a chaep ls block there not that expensive. i dont think all that work is worth is on something thats old and has problems like that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by westspeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it would be easier to just buy a chaep ls block there not that expensive. i dont think all that work is worth is on something thats old and has problems like that</TD></TR></TABLE>

true there. I have a b18a that's already tapped, has gsr oil pump, oil sump, water pump, new head gasket and all that. Nothing wrong with it. I was planning on doing the ls/vtec but decided to just go with a built turbo/ls. So I'm selling this. I want $500. It's the whole shortblock (block/head/internals). Let me know if you or anyone else is interested!

 

Ok well I went into Midnight Performance today and ended up buying an LS shortblock.

Do you guys think I should use a block girdle? I plan on revving to 8000.

 

its never bad to add things that help

 

I would. When I was looking into doing this before I did my 99 JDM Hype swap, my local shop told me they can get a girdle for $100. I planned on doing it, $100 doesn't sound expensive.

 

No need to use a girdle for 8k rpm. Sure the girdle is $100, but more often than not, its a GSR design, then you need GSR main caps, oil pan, windage tray and oil pick-up. Then you need to have a machine shop align hone the mains to make sure everything is a-ok. It will wind up costing you way more than $100.

 

Yeah the block I got has already been to the machine shop once... I think I'm going to skip the girdle...

My local performance shop advised me against using LS rods and P30 pistons and revving to 8000 he said I should use aftermarket rods which also means I need to use aftermarket pistons. I know I am going to use Eagle rods but for pistons I'm not sure yet. The reason I was using P30 pistons before was to get around 11.4:1 CR or so. Can anyone recommend an aftermarket piston that is going to put me near that?

 

You don't need GSR main caps to install a GSR block girdle on your ls, use your ls main caps just make sure you get them machined, milled down to accept the girdle. A line hone is a good idea too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shorto85 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
My local performance shop advised me against using LS rods</TD></TR></TABLE>

Of course they did, so they can sell you some rods. Ive been usnig shot peened LS rods and i rev to 8k all the time, 6600 miles on the engine.

 

if it's daily driven, use the oem p30 pistons, 11.4:1 is great for the streets. + you can raise or lower the compression by the headgasket

(they wanna take advantage of you so you can buy a 500 set of pistons )

 

if your paranoid bout it..buy some arp rod bolts for them ls rods....8k will be no problem even with stock rod bolts IMO..but its only like an extra 30bucks for the bolts + machine costs(round 60 here)

 

I cant decide now if I want to use the P30 pistons and the stock rods or upgrade to aftermarket rods and pistons... the price difference is big. The most important thing to me is that this motor is reliable because it is going in my daily driver.