Is there a way to tell if you need to Flush VS replace coolant?
just like topic...
Is there an easy way to find out whether or not you need to flush your coolant VS just replacing it? Also, is the prestone stuff I hear about compatible with the OEM honda stuff? or will I need to flush to make sure they dont mix.
Just checking as well...
To replace coolant, take off radiator cap, remove drain on bottom of radiator and wait until empty?
then put in drain plug leave cap off, fill almost all way, turn on with high heat, and fill as needed? replace cap then done?
Is there an easy way to find out whether or not you need to flush your coolant VS just replacing it? Also, is the prestone stuff I hear about compatible with the OEM honda stuff? or will I need to flush to make sure they dont mix.
Just checking as well...
To replace coolant, take off radiator cap, remove drain on bottom of radiator and wait until empty?
then put in drain plug leave cap off, fill almost all way, turn on with high heat, and fill as needed? replace cap then done?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just like topic...
Is there an easy way to find out whether or not you need to flush your coolant VS just replacing it? Also, is the prestone stuff I hear about compatible with the OEM honda stuff? or will I need to flush to make sure they dont mix.
Just checking as well...
To replace coolant, take off radiator cap, remove drain on bottom of radiator and wait until empty?
then put in drain plug leave cap off, fill almost all way, turn on with high heat, and fill as needed? replace cap then done?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, no way to tell that I know of. Yes...that is how you flush it. And replace it. I have been using that prestone pre mixed ****...works fine for me. i have been using it for about 3 months now. good luck
Is there an easy way to find out whether or not you need to flush your coolant VS just replacing it? Also, is the prestone stuff I hear about compatible with the OEM honda stuff? or will I need to flush to make sure they dont mix.
Just checking as well...
To replace coolant, take off radiator cap, remove drain on bottom of radiator and wait until empty?
then put in drain plug leave cap off, fill almost all way, turn on with high heat, and fill as needed? replace cap then done?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, no way to tell that I know of. Yes...that is how you flush it. And replace it. I have been using that prestone pre mixed ****...works fine for me. i have been using it for about 3 months now. good luck
Im pretty sure you can tell by time. i thought i heard it loses its cooling properties with time so you gotta get some new stuff.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by murmur9 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No, no way to tell that I know of. Yes...that is how you flush it. And replace it. I have been using that prestone pre mixed ****...works fine for me. i have been using it for about 3 months now. good luck
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong.. and Wrong..
There is a special tool you can get that tells you if your coolant is still cooling your car to the proper degree. It just sucks an amount of coolant from your radiator and then it tells you by the number of ***** that float or sink..
Flushing the RADIATOR only would require you to do what you described, and then poor new coolant in and let it poor out as well. However, flushing the system as a whole would require much more than that. You have to remember that there is coolant in the block and everything in between, so just draining the radiator wont get all that stuff out.
My suggestion: Go to a Valvoline Instant Oil Change and tell them to check your coolant. They have the tool, and they will tell you if your coolant is dirty as hell and needs to be changed. They also have the machine that can properly flush the entire cooling system.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Wrong.. and Wrong..
There is a special tool you can get that tells you if your coolant is still cooling your car to the proper degree. It just sucks an amount of coolant from your radiator and then it tells you by the number of ***** that float or sink..
Flushing the RADIATOR only would require you to do what you described, and then poor new coolant in and let it poor out as well. However, flushing the system as a whole would require much more than that. You have to remember that there is coolant in the block and everything in between, so just draining the radiator wont get all that stuff out.
My suggestion: Go to a Valvoline Instant Oil Change and tell them to check your coolant. They have the tool, and they will tell you if your coolant is dirty as hell and needs to be changed. They also have the machine that can properly flush the entire cooling system.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatchy-Ownzjo0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wrong.. and Wrong..
There is a special tool you can get that tells you if your coolant is still cooling your car to the proper degree. It just sucks an amount of coolant from your radiator and then it tells you by the number of ***** that float or sink..
Flushing the RADIATOR only would require you to do what you described, and then poor new coolant in and let it poor out as well. However, flushing the system as a whole would require much more than that. You have to remember that there is coolant in the block and everything in between, so just draining the radiator wont get all that stuff out.
My suggestion: Go to a Valvoline Instant Oil Change and tell them to check your coolant. They have the tool, and they will tell you if your coolant is dirty as hell and needs to be changed. They also have the machine that can properly flush the entire cooling system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking of that, but its so friggin expensive.... at valvoline... but im at 89000 and will be at 90 by summer when I do this... I believe it was changed at 50,000 when I got it from a dealership but you never know if they do in fact do the maintanence... Do you happen to know what kind of coolant they use at Valvoline? Ive never seen a V brand... also, is the type they use good? or cheap...
(for flushing the radiator only)
Yeah I was thinking about just drain and go... I mean, the block, the heater core, it would all have the old stuff... so what is the point of just draining the radiator and replacing that? it will end up being just as dirty in a few min time as all the left over old stuff....
Am I wrong in stating that just draining and filling in the way I stated is a waste? is flushing the only way to replace it all?
Wrong.. and Wrong..
There is a special tool you can get that tells you if your coolant is still cooling your car to the proper degree. It just sucks an amount of coolant from your radiator and then it tells you by the number of ***** that float or sink..
Flushing the RADIATOR only would require you to do what you described, and then poor new coolant in and let it poor out as well. However, flushing the system as a whole would require much more than that. You have to remember that there is coolant in the block and everything in between, so just draining the radiator wont get all that stuff out.
My suggestion: Go to a Valvoline Instant Oil Change and tell them to check your coolant. They have the tool, and they will tell you if your coolant is dirty as hell and needs to be changed. They also have the machine that can properly flush the entire cooling system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was thinking of that, but its so friggin expensive.... at valvoline... but im at 89000 and will be at 90 by summer when I do this... I believe it was changed at 50,000 when I got it from a dealership but you never know if they do in fact do the maintanence... Do you happen to know what kind of coolant they use at Valvoline? Ive never seen a V brand... also, is the type they use good? or cheap...
(for flushing the radiator only)
Yeah I was thinking about just drain and go... I mean, the block, the heater core, it would all have the old stuff... so what is the point of just draining the radiator and replacing that? it will end up being just as dirty in a few min time as all the left over old stuff....
Am I wrong in stating that just draining and filling in the way I stated is a waste? is flushing the only way to replace it all?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatchy-Ownzjo0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Wrong.. and Wrong..
There is a special tool you can get that tells you if your coolant is still cooling your car to the proper degree. It just sucks an amount of coolant from your radiator and then it tells you by the number of ***** that float or sink..
Flushing the RADIATOR only would require you to do what you described, and then poor new coolant in and let it poor out as well. However, flushing the system as a whole would require much more than that. You have to remember that there is coolant in the block and everything in between, so just draining the radiator wont get all that stuff out.
My suggestion: Go to a Valvoline Instant Oil Change and tell them to check your coolant. They have the tool, and they will tell you if your coolant is dirty as hell and needs to be changed. They also have the machine that can properly flush the entire cooling system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Wrong.. and Wrong..
There is a special tool you can get that tells you if your coolant is still cooling your car to the proper degree. It just sucks an amount of coolant from your radiator and then it tells you by the number of ***** that float or sink..
Flushing the RADIATOR only would require you to do what you described, and then poor new coolant in and let it poor out as well. However, flushing the system as a whole would require much more than that. You have to remember that there is coolant in the block and everything in between, so just draining the radiator wont get all that stuff out.
My suggestion: Go to a Valvoline Instant Oil Change and tell them to check your coolant. They have the tool, and they will tell you if your coolant is dirty as hell and needs to be changed. They also have the machine that can properly flush the entire cooling system.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have a question about replacing the coolant in the block also. Let's say I wanted to replace all of the old coolant. I would drain the radiator and drain the block, and then pour in the new coolant thru the radiator. My question is how will I get coolant into the block since the thermostat will be closed?
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I believe you must have the heater temp gauge on full, but not needed fan... Even doing this though, seems to not drain all of the hose, and the heater core... maybe it does... I dont know...
Thank you all for the help so far, please keep it coming.
Thank you all for the help so far, please keep it coming.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatchy-Ownzjo0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
There is a special tool you can get that tells you if your coolant is still cooling your car to the proper degree. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a little guage that looks like an eydropper. It's about 2.00 at the parts store. If your coolant is changed regularly (30-60K), and is the nice green color, you don't need to test it, it'll be fine.
To drain the whole system, do what you mentioned to the radiator. Then there is a bolt on the back of the block, up and to the left of the oil filter. Remove it, and it will drain the coolant from the engine. When it's replaced, you will have to use a new crush washer from the dealer to make sure it seals properly. This is the factory manual specified way to change the coolant.
Refil with Prestone. It's the same that hondas used to come with, but now they've aparently switched to a blue coolant, but it's still compatible with prestone. Just don't use the pink / orange stuff. I use the pre-mix, because two of those will fill the system with some left over. Everyone bitches about the price of the pre-mix, but for the extra $5 for a second gallon, I don't have to deal with finding something to mix the stuff in, getting the ratios right. Just pour and go.
There is a special tool you can get that tells you if your coolant is still cooling your car to the proper degree. </TD></TR></TABLE>
It's a little guage that looks like an eydropper. It's about 2.00 at the parts store. If your coolant is changed regularly (30-60K), and is the nice green color, you don't need to test it, it'll be fine.
To drain the whole system, do what you mentioned to the radiator. Then there is a bolt on the back of the block, up and to the left of the oil filter. Remove it, and it will drain the coolant from the engine. When it's replaced, you will have to use a new crush washer from the dealer to make sure it seals properly. This is the factory manual specified way to change the coolant.
Refil with Prestone. It's the same that hondas used to come with, but now they've aparently switched to a blue coolant, but it's still compatible with prestone. Just don't use the pink / orange stuff. I use the pre-mix, because two of those will fill the system with some left over. Everyone bitches about the price of the pre-mix, but for the extra $5 for a second gallon, I don't have to deal with finding something to mix the stuff in, getting the ratios right. Just pour and go.
so by draining the radiator, and block... all is gone? what about the hoses and heater core? Also, is there a torque spec on the block bolt? or is it just to tightness. Also, I doubt I will spend the money, but does Valvoline have a good coolant?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so by draining the radiator, and block... all is gone? what about the hoses and heater core? Also, is there a torque spec on the block bolt? or is it just to tightness. Also, I doubt I will spend the money, but does Valvoline have a good coolant?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think there still may be some in the lines, but by pulling the block bolt, you'll get most of it. If it's really bad (brown coolant, tested very bad), just run it for a few thousand miles, and drain again.
I don't know about the valvoline coolant; don't they make the orange kind? I just always go with the prestone, the pre-mix is available everywhere.
I think there still may be some in the lines, but by pulling the block bolt, you'll get most of it. If it's really bad (brown coolant, tested very bad), just run it for a few thousand miles, and drain again.
I don't know about the valvoline coolant; don't they make the orange kind? I just always go with the prestone, the pre-mix is available everywhere.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so by draining the radiator, and block... all is gone? what about the hoses and heater core? Also, is there a torque spec on the block bolt? or is it just to tightness. Also, I doubt I will spend the money, but does Valvoline have a good coolant?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes almost all will be gone. Some people run fresh water from a hose through their system to clean up all excess coolant/debris. When you put new fluid in the car you push the heater to hot to keep the core open and it will circulate through the whole system.
As for the bolt on the block, you torque it with a 19mm. I forget the exact torque rating but I'll check it this weekend. Its recommended you change the washer also.
Yes almost all will be gone. Some people run fresh water from a hose through their system to clean up all excess coolant/debris. When you put new fluid in the car you push the heater to hot to keep the core open and it will circulate through the whole system.
As for the bolt on the block, you torque it with a 19mm. I forget the exact torque rating but I'll check it this weekend. Its recommended you change the washer also.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe you must have the heater temp gauge on full, but not needed fan... Even doing this though, seems to not drain all of the hose, and the heater core... maybe it does... I dont know...
Thank you all for the help so far, please keep it coming.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need the fan on to make sure that the heat is getting hot. If the heat blows cold, there is still air in the system.
Thank you all for the help so far, please keep it coming.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You need the fan on to make sure that the heat is getting hot. If the heat blows cold, there is still air in the system.
Alright, so say I use the hose, I fill it up and run it through until its clear... even if I drain the system as I would have before... taking both bolts out... what removes that water from the tubes and heater core.... would this not ruin the 50/50 ratio when I close everything up and add the new coolant?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">taking both bolts out... what removes that water from the tubes and heater core.... </TD></TR></TABLE>
Gravity.
Gravity.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Gravity.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no really? well it seems to me that if the core and tubes are not all slanding down, and are in fact lower than the drain due to some stuff being higher then lower. then gravity isnt going to pull it out now will it.. gravity will have it sitting in those low spots....
Gravity.</TD></TR></TABLE>
no really? well it seems to me that if the core and tubes are not all slanding down, and are in fact lower than the drain due to some stuff being higher then lower. then gravity isnt going to pull it out now will it.. gravity will have it sitting in those low spots....
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no really? well it seems to me that if the core and tubes are not all slanding down, and are in fact lower than the drain due to some stuff being higher then lower. then gravity isnt going to pull it out now will it.. gravity will have it sitting in those low spots....</TD></TR></TABLE>
What's wrong with your system that you need to be concerned with getting every last bit out? If you want to do that, take the lines off and run a hose in there and fill. the small amount that's left isn't going to make much of a difference. Plus there is a range of acceptable ratios that you can use for the antifreeze depending on conditions.
no really? well it seems to me that if the core and tubes are not all slanding down, and are in fact lower than the drain due to some stuff being higher then lower. then gravity isnt going to pull it out now will it.. gravity will have it sitting in those low spots....</TD></TR></TABLE>
What's wrong with your system that you need to be concerned with getting every last bit out? If you want to do that, take the lines off and run a hose in there and fill. the small amount that's left isn't going to make much of a difference. Plus there is a range of acceptable ratios that you can use for the antifreeze depending on conditions.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but does Valvoline have a good coolant?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I run Valvoline coolant in my car, it's good stuff. They make all their own products for the most part, but coolant is coolant. They have the orange/yellow stuff for those gay cars like fords that need it..
Yea, a coolant flush is pretty expensive there. I believe it's like 69.99 or something.
In order to circulate all the coolant you could just fill the radiator up and then turn on the car.. It would suck all the collant into the block in about .5 seconds of running.. Then you just continue to fill up the radiator and squeeze the top radiator hose to get all the air out. - Dont recommend doing this with an engine that's already hot..
Also, dont forget to dump the overflow out as well!
I run Valvoline coolant in my car, it's good stuff. They make all their own products for the most part, but coolant is coolant. They have the orange/yellow stuff for those gay cars like fords that need it..
Yea, a coolant flush is pretty expensive there. I believe it's like 69.99 or something.
In order to circulate all the coolant you could just fill the radiator up and then turn on the car.. It would suck all the collant into the block in about .5 seconds of running.. Then you just continue to fill up the radiator and squeeze the top radiator hose to get all the air out. - Dont recommend doing this with an engine that's already hot..
Also, dont forget to dump the overflow out as well!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EX_AutoXer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What's wrong with your system that you need to be concerned with getting every last bit out? If you want to do that, take the lines off and run a hose in there and fill. the small amount that's left isn't going to make much of a difference. Plus there is a range of acceptable ratios that you can use for the antifreeze depending on conditions.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nothing is wrong, yet, but I am the type of guy who wants it done right the first time. I plan on maintaining this car and its engine for a very very long time. I want at least 500,000 miles baby!
What's wrong with your system that you need to be concerned with getting every last bit out? If you want to do that, take the lines off and run a hose in there and fill. the small amount that's left isn't going to make much of a difference. Plus there is a range of acceptable ratios that you can use for the antifreeze depending on conditions.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nothing is wrong, yet, but I am the type of guy who wants it done right the first time. I plan on maintaining this car and its engine for a very very long time. I want at least 500,000 miles baby!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatchy-Ownzjo0 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I run Valvoline coolant in my car, it's good stuff. They make all their own products for the most part, but coolant is coolant. They have the orange/yellow stuff for those gay cars like fords that need it.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Ok so where do I start.
#1 coolant is not coolant. Honda coolant is made silicate free. Is Prestone/Valvoline Silicate free? Honda coolant is made to be compatable with aluminum engines (hence the no silicate) They have found thru testing that using other brands than Honda will cause the seals on the waterpump to degrade over time. Plus coolant with silicate doesn't have as long of a shelf life.
#2 If a Ford Mustang GT is gay what is a Honda Civc/Prelude?? Teh bobm?
also just thought I would add that you shoudln't use tap water in your cooling system. It may leave mineral deposits n' junk behind that will degrade your cooling system. Use only distilled water.
My advice since you want to do it the RIGHT way is just go get the Honda coolant from a stealership.
1. slide the heater temp control lever to maximum heat. Make sure the engine and radiator are cool to the touch.
2. Remove the rad cap.
3. losen the drain plug and drain the coolant (rad)
4. remove the drain bolt from the block (next to oil filter)
5. Apply liquid gasket to the drain bolt threads then reinstall the bolt with a new washer. tq spec: Drain bolt in block 58 lb ft
6. Tighten the rad drain plug securely
7. Remove, drain and reinstall reservoir. Fill up with Honda coolant to max mark.
8. Pour coolant into the radiator up to the base of the filler neck, and install the rad cap loosely.
9. Start the engine and let it run untill it warms up (the radiator fan comes on at least twice)
10. Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator and add coolant if needed.
11. Put the cap on tightly and run the engine again, check for leaks.
Thats my .02 cents anyway.
Ok so where do I start.
#1 coolant is not coolant. Honda coolant is made silicate free. Is Prestone/Valvoline Silicate free? Honda coolant is made to be compatable with aluminum engines (hence the no silicate) They have found thru testing that using other brands than Honda will cause the seals on the waterpump to degrade over time. Plus coolant with silicate doesn't have as long of a shelf life.
#2 If a Ford Mustang GT is gay what is a Honda Civc/Prelude?? Teh bobm?
also just thought I would add that you shoudln't use tap water in your cooling system. It may leave mineral deposits n' junk behind that will degrade your cooling system. Use only distilled water.
My advice since you want to do it the RIGHT way is just go get the Honda coolant from a stealership.
1. slide the heater temp control lever to maximum heat. Make sure the engine and radiator are cool to the touch.
2. Remove the rad cap.
3. losen the drain plug and drain the coolant (rad)
4. remove the drain bolt from the block (next to oil filter)
5. Apply liquid gasket to the drain bolt threads then reinstall the bolt with a new washer. tq spec: Drain bolt in block 58 lb ft
6. Tighten the rad drain plug securely
7. Remove, drain and reinstall reservoir. Fill up with Honda coolant to max mark.
8. Pour coolant into the radiator up to the base of the filler neck, and install the rad cap loosely.
9. Start the engine and let it run untill it warms up (the radiator fan comes on at least twice)
10. Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator and add coolant if needed.
11. Put the cap on tightly and run the engine again, check for leaks.
Thats my .02 cents anyway.
You need to run the engine until the thermostat opens. Which means, you need to run with the radiator cap off, which is not a problem, because the coolant isn't getting hot enough yet to spray all over the place. When you see the level in the filler neck drop down, refill until full. Then, shut the engine off, and open the bleeder screw to get air out of the upper part of the system. The bleeder screw is at the engine end of the top hose, looks like a bolt with a hole on top (it's pointing straight up). Open it a little way (1/2 turn, maybe), and add coolant to the filler neck until it is coming out the bleeder screw. Retighten the bleeder screw, put on the radiator cap, and run the engine to check for leaks.
I found this to be helpful, since running an engine with an airgap in the cooling system will cause it to idle very rough.
I found this to be helpful, since running an engine with an airgap in the cooling system will cause it to idle very rough.
now these last two posts hit the spot and answered some blank parts.... thank you all, I think this might be the most informative thread on this topic yet... hope it gets saved.... silly how something as simple as changing fluid can be so misunderstood and complicated huh?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CooBlueDAB »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank you all, I think this might be the most informative thread on this topic yet...</TD></TR></TABLE>
All of this info (aside from the coolant brands) is contained in the Helms manual.
All of this info (aside from the coolant brands) is contained in the Helms manual.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EX_AutoXer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
All of this info (aside from the coolant brands) is contained in the Helms manual. </TD></TR></TABLE>
and it has pictures...oooooh pretty pictures
I have it in PDF format, I downloaded it from somewhere but cant remember.
Oh and it says to only use Genuine Honda coolant, so its in there.
All of this info (aside from the coolant brands) is contained in the Helms manual. </TD></TR></TABLE>
and it has pictures...oooooh pretty pictures
I have it in PDF format, I downloaded it from somewhere but cant remember.
Oh and it says to only use Genuine Honda coolant, so its in there.





