Back in May, my TOB was showing a few symptoms of going bad. I prolonged the evitable by about 7 months and finally decided to replace the entire setup.

Went with ACT XTSS and XACT Prolite FW.

During the install, i throughly lubed it up and tested the assembly. The shift fork seemed a little harder to move up and down than normal, but I disregarded it and torqued everything down and threw it back in.

About 1 week later, I could hear a FAINT chirping noise and I think to myself, "oh hell no, not the TOB bearing" So I place my foot gently on the clutch pedal and sure enough, the chirping goes away. It's really suttle. Somedays it doesn't do it at all - other days it does it a little bit, but it's always FAINT.

I was searching around H-T and found this thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=819860

Nearing the bottom of the thread, the guy says that the bearing was replaced again and the mech said that all the grease was lost. Weird because I put A LOT of grease on mine.

One last question - the shift fork pit, where the pin and that ball go on the slave cylinder, doesn't need to be greased, right?

 

Its a B-series thing. Half of my hondas w/B-series have a clutch squeek, I just learn to live with it. I've replaced the entire clutch system from the lines to the master/slave cylinders and that doesn't fix it. Its just there.

 

I dont think hes talking about the clutch squeeking. If I'm reading right, it makes this sound with the clutch out.

Mine did the same thing, got the throwout bearing replaced under warantee and the sound went away for 30,000 miles or so. I think mine needs another throwout bearing now though

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jond &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont think hes talking about the clutch squeeking. If I'm reading right, it makes this sound with the clutch out.

Mine did the same thing, got the throwout bearing replaced under warantee and the sound went away for 30,000 miles or so. I think mine needs another throwout bearing now though </TD></TR></TABLE>

Son of a b. This is <U>exactly</U> what mine was doing. Acura replaced the TO bearing under warranty a few weeks ago. My warranty is running out in March so I got this fixed just in time.

 

.....if your clutch is making a noise with the pedal all the way out, try adjusting the pedal throw to cure it.

 

What type of grease did you put on there? If you used that green hi temp stuff from Honda you shouldn't have any problems. If you didn't go get some and relube the shaft, bearing and the pressure plate forks. Cured my squealing problems, and hasn't ever resurfaced. I'll see if i can get the part # for you.

 

i used moly disulfide grease

 

Was it an OEM part you used as replacement for the throwout bearing?

I have had experience with aftermarket junk going bad.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all stock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used moly disulfide grease</TD></TR></TABLE>That was the same crap that caused my TOB to start squealing again. I'll post the part # for that Hi temp lube when i get home.

 

stop worrying about it and drive!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all stock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i used moly disulfide grease</TD></TR></TABLE> this is the wrong grease, as 1boostedhybrid said. I did the exact same thing, and also used the moly to repack the slave cylinder (big mistake). the clutch pedal started sticking and squeaking (again). Pulled everything apart, cleaned off the moly and used the honda green stuff, problem solved. This was 43000 miles ago, and the squeak has not resurfaced.

get the green hi-temp urea grease from honda and use that, your problem will go away.

 

super hi temp urea grease part number 08798-9002
properly named urea because it smells like **** but works oh so good.

 

guys, the clutch pedal isn't squeaking the TOB bearing is.

i don't really want to drop the tranny...if i must, probably in the summer.
the TOB i used was the one from ACT's kit - made in japan.

the grease i used was what was specific in the helms manual. i know it's molybdenium grease...but i can't remember if it's di sulfide or what.

think i can remove the slave cyl boot and use a coat hanger to regrease the main shaft? instead of dropping the tranny? =p

i don't think my TOB went bad after 1 week.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikestypeRR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">stop worrying about it and drive! </TD></TR></TABLE>

after the first 500 miles.

 

any one else have experiences that went something like:

1. changed clutch and bearings
2. TOB started chirping, showing an indication of going bad
3. chirping went away after a little while

i still have not finished breaking in the clutch.

 

The grease I used is Moroso Moly Paste.
However, I didn't do two things:
1. apply a -thin- layer
2. clean off the main shaft surface...i forgot to.

 

What exactly did you grease?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What exactly did you grease?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The inner race of the bearing AND the main shaft.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all stock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">guys, the clutch pedal isn't squeaking the TOB bearing is.

i don't really want to drop the tranny...if i must, probably in the summer.
the TOB i used was the one from ACT's kit - made in japan.

the grease i used was what was specific in the helms manual. i know it's molybdenium grease...but i can't remember if it's di sulfide or what.

think i can remove the slave cyl boot and use a coat hanger to regrease the main shaft? instead of dropping the tranny? =p

i don't think my TOB went bad after 1 week.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you used the wrong grease. the helms manual right in front of me says to ONLY use Super High-temp Urea Grease, P/N 08798-9002. you are supposed to use it on the release fork slave cylinder receiver, the release fork bolt (where the release fork pivots), the two "fingers" of the release fork (where it contacts the throwout bearing), the inside diameter of the throwout bearing, the transmission main shaft where the throwout bearing slides, and the part of the main shaft where the clutch splines slide on. you are also supposed to grease the splines of the clutch. all parts should have a thin layer applied.

[sp]

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by artifex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you used the wrong grease. the helms manual right in front of me says to ONLY use Super High-temp Urea Grease, P/N 08798-9002. you are supposed to use it on the release fork slave cylinder receiver, the release fork bolt (where the release fork pivots), the two "fingers" of the release fork (where it contacts the throwout bearing), the inside diameter of the throwout bearing, the transmission main shaft where the throwout bearing slides, and the part of the main shaft where the clutch splines slide on. you are also supposed to grease the splines of the clutch. all parts should have a thin layer applied.

[sp]</TD></TR></TABLE>

so think the release bearing is still good?

 

i greased the shift fork [slave cyl end] and adjusted the idle - no squeaking for 2 days...i'm guessing that maybe it just needed to be broken in?

 

Yes, you need to grease the slave cylinder end of the shift forks, and the ball - anything metal to metal. You prolly got it when you regreased. Get the Helms, it shows exactly where.

You really should use the right grease (super high temp urea). However tons of HT members said they used white lithium (which definitely does NOT meet the SHTU specs), and it has been fine. I used some ultra trick high temp silicone racing motorcycle bling bling shiznit . That has worked for 20K.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ill &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, you need to grease the slave cylinder end of the shift forks, and the ball - anything metal to metal. You prolly got it when you regreased. Get the Helms, it shows exactly where.

You really should use the right grease (super high temp urea). However tons of HT members said they used white lithium (which definitely does NOT meet the SHTU specs), and it has been fine. I used some ultra trick high temp silicone racing motorcycle bling bling shiznit . That has worked for 20K.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The information on the moly paste says this:

Moroso MOLY PASTE is a heavy duty assembly lubricant formulated to reduce friction and wear on all bearing surfaces. Aids in extending parts life subject to extreme heat encountered under racing conditions. Recommended use on cams, lifters, bearings, gears, etc. and wherever metal to metal contact may occur. Do not use on piston rings or cylinder walls.

 

I have a ACT clutch, it squeaks sometimes. Its normal. I believe everything is fine.

 

after i greased up the slave cyl, hasn't been squeaking since wednesday