ok iam gonna tell you guys everything to see if you guys can help me out on what the hell is going on

i got my swap, everything was fine, put my motor in and it was fine, no codes, started right up, doesnt even smoke

so when we pull out the driveway everything is good, and you put it in first and try to accelerate and when you barely and i mean barely give it throttle it will start to move, but when you give it any more than a hairline of throttle it sputters really really bad, so you barely give it throttle and it will start to move through the powerband-shift to 2nd and then try to give it more gas and it just sputters its *** off,barely give it throttle and it will slowly move like it is supposed to

so here is the info on everything, like i said no codes, i have triple checked the wireing and it is fine, spark plugs are fine, checked the spark plug wires and they are fine...correct voltage on everything

replaced the cap,rotor,ignitor,coil,tps sensor....and it is still ******* up, i cant get it to run at all, it idles well and moves but you have to barely and i mean barely press the throttle or it just ***** all up

another thing-i have my 2 o2 wires wired together- i have 1 o2 sensor, but both of the wires are spliced together and wired into it, i have heard of people running this without problem before, does anyone know if this could be doing it?

iam gonna check the timing again tommorrow and re-do it, and then see what i can do about this o2 stuff

please help me!!!!!!!

 

i know this usually doesnt happen with a EF but are your MAP sensor and TPS plugs on the wrong spots? Usually happens when doing a swap on a eg/ek. Hose going to map sensor hooked up?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hahagasdcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know this usually doesnt happen with a EF but are your MAP sensor and TPS plugs on the wrong spots? Usually happens when doing a swap on a eg/ek. Hose going to map sensor hooked up?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea iam pretty sure...i will quadruple check it tommorrow, i didnt even unbolt the map sensor for the swap, that i can remeber.......i need some major help....

i would really like to know if i need to get a header with 2 o2 bungs, or if it is fine that iam running both of my o2 wires into the one i have

 

This might sound stupid, but do you have gas in the car. Car does the same thing when you are running out of gas

 

sounds like your not running on all four cylinders, check plugs and distributor. good luck

 

it also be your injectors...i had that problem on my 240 and it ended up needing an injector..

 

if your using the stock plugs and wires change them,when we fired up this new motor they were arcing all over the valve cover and were shot,i was basically running one 1 cylinder,also sounds like a timing problem to me.running o o2 sensors will hurt performance and gas milage but not like your describing.good luck

 

i appreciate all the replies

the spark plugs are brand new, and we checked the spark plug wires for voltage and they were all putting out more than enough spark

and i have replaced just about everything in the distributor

i havent checked the injectors yet, but i guess i can try that

and yes i have plenty of gas in the car

iam going to go work on it soon and hopefully i will figure it out

 

could also be a fuel filter...had the exact same problem and changed it out for a new oem one...problem gone.
Could your dizzy be shot?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bambam &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could your dizzy be shot?</TD></TR></TABLE>

my friend has another one i might try to change it out tonight.......


the fuel filter is fine....

 

more than likely its the o2 sensor hack that you did. If people splice them and it works, it just means that all of their cylinders are firing similarly. Where is the bung placed on your setup currently?

I'm not saying that this is your problem for sure, but 75% of the time its the o2 sensors that cause this type of problem in this swap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ricodemus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">more than likely its the o2 sensor hack that you did. If people splice them and it works, it just means that all of their cylinders are firing similarly. Where is the bung placed on your setup currently?

I'm not saying that this is your problem for sure, but 75% of the time its the o2 sensors that cause this type of problem in this swap</TD></TR></TABLE>

its an aftermarket 4 to 1, 1 piece header so the bung is on the end of the header close to where it bolts up to the exhaust, could i unbolt my o2 sensor and see if it starts to work ok to see if it is my problem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91efniner &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

its an aftermarket 4 to 1, 1 piece header so the bung is on the end of the header close to where it bolts up to the exhaust, could i unbolt my o2 sensor and see if it starts to work ok to see if it is my problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think that the ecu should revert to a basemap if it doesn't get a signal from the ecu, so I would just undo the clip to the o2 sensor.

 

th o2 sensor wouldnt have that much of and effect on the whole running of the engine.

you either have plugs messed up, stuck fuel injectors, OR , your timing belt is a tooth retarded IMO.

pull out your injectors, spray them with brakecleaner, and put them back in. this trick has free'd injectors for me on about 8 swaps.

 

check crank timing then throw a timing light on to see your dist timing. make sure its all good

 

had that problem show up last night on a swap i just did. wired up both the o2 sensors this morning and the problem and codes went away. the code you shold see is "2". my check engine light didnt come on for 2 weeks and it ran fine till the light came on. i guess obd0 is just developmentally disabled.

 

i agree, where is your timing set at? not at tdc right? it should be 15 before tdc, those 3 little lines on the crank pulley, not the one single line by itslef. maybe put one of those cheap b&m pressure guages on the fuel filter to see if your getting pressure. i would also do a leakdown test. are the valves set right? oh btw, you can wire the 2 O2's together, thats not a problem, usually its the knock sensor that does wierd stuff (the green and red wire on the corner of harness connector "b". the check engine light might be off, but the ecu may be throwing code, check that too

do leak down and compression check so you know the engine is mechanically fine, then check fuel pressure with a guage ($10) then timing, if everything is ****, then the problem is wiring

 

haha check this **** out, adjusted the timing a little bit, and then changed the spark plug wires, and now it is working badass, freaking wierd, the number 4 cylinder wasnt getting any spark so it was running on 3 cylinders, which caused that hella hesitation at wot, i even checked that voltage coming from them and it was straight, so i guess you cant allways trust the volotmeter or whatever


well the motor runs great now and i love it! thanks for your help guys

 

congrats glad you got it fixed with not too much headache.

 

sweet! another fellow ef running **** : P