ok i got t-boned, messed my passesnger side up (pics in sig)...i know my axel is meesed up and i searched and found this https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=382416

i want to do this, but im not sure if my lca, uca, or tie rod or any of that stuff is messed up, how can i tell if any of that stuff is messed up...and another thing, how much does a new axel cost...i pretty sure i only need that one side, but i dont know how much thay cost so any help is appreciated

*edit* i have drove on the axel for about 800 miles now becuase i have to commute to college, how much longer can i go before it like snaps off or something?

 

anybody????

 

i need some help people

 

A new axles usually cost around $50-$70.

How long your axle will last just depends on how bad of shape it is in.

You could crawl under the car and see if there is any obvious damage to the suspension on that side.
You could also take it in for an alignment. The will beable to tell if things are really out of whack.

 

ok thanks, any other suggestions guys...anybody else had to go through this?

 

Does the car still drive the same after the acident? If your suspension got damaged, either the car won't track straight anymore, or bump steer will be funky.

I buy axles from autozone. $60 w/ a lifetime warranty. You also need to rent a 32mm socket for your breaker bar. Make sure the new axle comes with a new hub nut because you don't want to reuse the old one once it's been staked down.

I browsed that DIY thread & I have a few at home tips:
Remove the hub nut before you remove the wheel & jack up the car when not using an impact gun
Use the 1/2" rachet method to seperate the lower balljoint from the LCA:
***jack up LCA
***place rachet handle on its side (tall way) next to balljoint boot
***lower the jack under the LCA & remove (rachet handle should bind up next to balljoint)
***push down on brake rotor until rachet handle pops balljoint free

Reassembly:
Put the lower balljoint into the LCA so the stud is sticking out the other side
With the car on jackstands, place your jack under the LCA
Jack up LCA until car starts to lift
Have someone push down on Brake rotor w/ all their weight as you torque castle nut (helps to keep the balljoint from turning)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94eg! &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Does the car still drive the same after the acident? If your suspension got damaged, either the car won't track straight anymore, or bump steer will be funky.
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the car drives fine, but it bent my wheel in like i have negative camber, and the steering wheel is cocked to the right (when i have the wheels straight, the steering wheel is turned to the right...probably about 1oclock) so i dont know if its just my axle or other suspension stuff

 

any ideas whats wrong?

 

.....

 

come on guys, help me out

 

 

anybody know whats wrong?

 

Well, if the top of your wheel is tilted in, your upper control arm is probably f*cked.
There's also a good chance your knuckle is messed up too.

I hit a curb a few years ago and I had to replace upper control arm, lower control arm, knuckle, and steering rack.

Unless you just want to guess and start replacing things one by one, you should take it somewhere and have them tell you exaclty what is wrong.

 

ok thanks man