Ok here goes......My braking problem started a couple of weeks ago, I checked my brake fluid, and it was really low, so I added some, but then the pedal became a little sponge. I didn't think anything of it, since I was going to do a ITR 5-lug swap. After 10 hours( hand tools ) , I was done with the swap. Started to bleed the brake. The brake pedal was really stiff with the car off, but once I turned it on, it fell straight to the floor. So I went and got a new master cyclinder, and it did the same thing after bleeding it. So then I got my second master cyclinder, and still have the same problem. And yes i'm bleeding the brakes right. Anyone have any ideas what it could be?

Thanks

 

what size mc and booster are you using w/ the itr set?

 

stock booster and 13/16 master cyclinder, it shouldn't matter, b/c it came off a 93 Hatch with the same setup..

 

Well that is pretty tiny, compared to the 1" that comes on the itr.
Since youve changed the mc it rules out failure. If you have no leaks and bled it well enough (assuming) then I can't think of anything other than it being too small, despite what you think.

 

thanks, but it was on a hatch, with the same size booster and mc

 

it doesnt matter if he had it on his car. youre going to have a lot of pedal travel with that 5-lug conversion and your stock booster/mc/prop. valve. did you check to see if the brakes will hold the wheel at all when you have the brakes pressed?

 

theres no brake at all....

 

sounded like you still have air in the system. did you convert to 5 lugs all around? if yes then you will have longer pedal travel with stock bb/mc.

 

yeah...all the way around....but it doesn't brake when u slam on the brake.......it just goes to the floor......bleed the brakes for 2 hours.........

 

any other suggestions?

 

Change you m/c to 1' and your proportion valve to 40/40 stamp. I don't care if it came out of another hatch. Also after you get those two item, try and bleed while your car is running. In that way you will have some vacuum to your booster. At least that what i did to mine. If you have the extra cash get some speed bleeder, makes the bleeding process a whole lot easier. Oh yeah, one more thing. If you brake fuild was low then you must be leaking somewhere.

I may be a newbie to this forum but I been there.

 

explain to us how exactully you're bleeding your brakes. Some people get an idea that they're bleeding them properly when infact, they're doing it completly the wrong way

also, clamp your brake lines and go from there. Clamp the 2 fronts and hit the brakes. Notice a difference in the pedal? If so, you have to rebleed the brakes. Repeat with rears also. Hope this helps

 

Passenger Rear, quick 20 pumps, hold on 20, and open up the screw, make sure you have a strong stream of fluid, when you do, go to the next one......

Go from Driver Rear, then Passenger Front, then Driver Front.........when doing this, all you need to do is 5 quick pumps, hold on 5, open up the screw, make sure you ahve a strong stream of fluid, when you do go to the next one.....


don't say i'm doing it wrong, every one does it differently...on the pumps......

????

 

bump

 

with the car off, does the pedal become hard to push after a few pumps? also, when i switched to integ discs all the way around, i had to press the brake pedal almost to the floor to get my car to stop with the stock 13/16 MC. i upgraded to a 15/16 MC.

 

silly question; but youre not leaking anywhere, are you?

Have you tried tapping the calipers w/ a rubber mallet when bleeding?

 

sounds to me like you have the bleeding procedure down right...but 20 is way to much pumping. Try like 3 times...all the way to the floor and let the pedal all the way up. On the 3rd time, hold it, and have the second person relieve the valve. The person holding the pedal SHOULD feel the pedal drop a bit...if not, then repeat. If you still dont have a pedal, do what i said about the clamps and hit the brakes...

 

suggestion...
you have power brakes, try bleeding with the car turned on.

it helps when extensive amounts of fluid were removed or lost from the lines by putting more more pressure in the system while pumping.

also make sure you close the bleeder screw before pressure is released from the pedal.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sidesi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">suggestion...
you have power brakes, try bleeding with the car turned on.

it helps when extensive amounts of fluid were removed or lost from the lines by putting more more pressure in the system while pumping.

also make sure you close the bleeder screw before pressure is released from the pedal.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lo0nY &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Passenger Rear, quick 20 pumps, hold on 20, and open up the screw, make sure you have a strong stream of fluid, when you do, go to the next one......

Go from Driver Rear, then Passenger Front, then Driver Front.........when doing this, all you need to do is 5 quick pumps, hold on 5, open up the screw, make sure you ahve a strong stream of fluid, when you do go to the next one.....


don't say i'm doing it wrong, every one does it differently...on the pumps......

????</TD></TR></TABLE>

you should pump 5 times slowly without letting your foot off the pedal. sounded like you tried to hump the brake pedal .
anyway your bleeding sequences are wrong. cause the brake system on late model honda are x pattern.
left rear, right front, right rear, left front.

 

i've done a lot of brake swaps, and never had a problem like this.....when pumping......with the car off.......the pedal is stiff as hell........turn the car on.....it falls to the floor.......the reason why you should pump 20 times is to build up pressure in the lines, since i replaced the M/C........the sequence shouldn't matter.....i also tried bleeding at the master cylinder......no luck.....bleeding with the car on???? how would that work???? never heard of that.......

 

did you try clamping the hoses first and then checking for pressure...if you got air in the lines, the pressure will hold, if not, you've still got air

 

bleeding with the car on, getting some vacumm to the brake booster.

 

bleeding with the car on only cause vaccum....and makes bleeding harder........

 

Really.... For some reason i did that way and got some pressure on pedal. Originally i did it with the car off and the pedal wouldn't get any stiff at all.

BTW, i had speedbleeder so i know my brake was bleed properly.