Heater and or fan do not work, fuse is blown, when I replace it, the fuse pops.
I need help bad. My heater was working fine until this point and all of a sudden it went out and so did my rear defroster. I figured out that it was a fuse yet when I go to replace it, it pops. I live in Chicago and we're getting a foot of snow as we speak. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
My real question is this....if my blower motor goes bad, do they have tendencies to ground out?
I forgot more about hondas then you will ever know....
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From: hop,skip, and a jump from the city,, new friggin york, USA
i just went through this in my piece of **** chevy. the fugger has 13 interior lights and the mirrors hooked up to one 20 amp fuse... argh.... anyway, i pm'd you.
It's absolutley nuts outside, of all the days for this to happen..........
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There has to be a short some where, will a short occur if the blower motor goes out?
There can be no other explanation for this cause it was working just fine yesterday.
Please help.
There can be no other explanation for this cause it was working just fine yesterday.
Please help.
There is no right or wrong way to install your fuse. Chances are, you got some moisture somewhere in your electricle system and it's causing the circuit to ground out, overloading the fuse and popping it. Since you will not be able to physically hunt down the ground and find the moisture, the next best thing is to stay out of the weather and let your car dry out. If you cannot do this, try going up to a 10 instead of a 7.5. You don't want to burn the car down so going with a 10 will still be safe and may potentially keep the circuit going without popping.
Aloha,
Brandon
Aloha,
Brandon
I tried putting in a 10 and still no workie.In the meantime we are also getting another 12 inches of snow........
Well I still have'nt solved the problem and it's cold as hell here.
I managed to disconnect all the accesories it was tied to( power mirrors, cooling fan motor relay, heater motor relay and rear defrost) and when I put the fuse in it still popped.
I really hate electrical problems more than you guys would understand.
Any suggestion is open and very appreciated.
I managed to disconnect all the accesories it was tied to( power mirrors, cooling fan motor relay, heater motor relay and rear defrost) and when I put the fuse in it still popped.
I really hate electrical problems more than you guys would understand.
Any suggestion is open and very appreciated.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by S(J)O(D)L(M) »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I still have'nt solved the problem and it's cold as hell here.
I managed to disconnect all the accesories it was tied to( power mirrors, cooling fan motor relay, heater motor relay and rear defrost) and when I put the fuse in it still popped.
I really hate electrical problems more than you guys would understand.
Any suggestion is open and very appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did it pop right when you turned the ignition on? Or before that?
There's no way its moisture. Water (even salty water) is too high resistance to blow a 7.5 amp fuse on a 12 volt system.
I'm guessing, if it blew right when you turned the ignition on, you have a short in the wire coming out of the fusebox going towards those systems (heater/defroster) even before the relay for those.
If you wanted to start debugging it, you could get out an ohmmeter.. but all that's going to tell you is that the power line is shorted to ground somewhere
Better bet would be to start looking over wiring harnesses to the relays under the hood, see if the wiring is chafed or cut anywhere. Then look at the wiring going through the firewall... I bet something bad is happening that is remotely related to your swap or the installation, so start under the hood/at the firewall.
I managed to disconnect all the accesories it was tied to( power mirrors, cooling fan motor relay, heater motor relay and rear defrost) and when I put the fuse in it still popped.
I really hate electrical problems more than you guys would understand.
Any suggestion is open and very appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Did it pop right when you turned the ignition on? Or before that?
There's no way its moisture. Water (even salty water) is too high resistance to blow a 7.5 amp fuse on a 12 volt system.
I'm guessing, if it blew right when you turned the ignition on, you have a short in the wire coming out of the fusebox going towards those systems (heater/defroster) even before the relay for those.
If you wanted to start debugging it, you could get out an ohmmeter.. but all that's going to tell you is that the power line is shorted to ground somewhere

Better bet would be to start looking over wiring harnesses to the relays under the hood, see if the wiring is chafed or cut anywhere. Then look at the wiring going through the firewall... I bet something bad is happening that is remotely related to your swap or the installation, so start under the hood/at the firewall.
Well i'm pretty fed up with the car right now and wish it would dissappear.
What i'm gonna try to do is just cut the wire from the back of the fuse box and run another wire and find the junction or where it splices into the other components and connect it there and see what happens. I'm going K series in about a month and would just like my heat back in the meanwhile.
What i'm gonna try to do is just cut the wire from the back of the fuse box and run another wire and find the junction or where it splices into the other components and connect it there and see what happens. I'm going K series in about a month and would just like my heat back in the meanwhile.
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demiseraph
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Aug 5, 2011 05:12 PM




