Well just got done doing a rear brake job on the car today because my passenger side on the rear sounded like it was grinding metal to metel and left a nice groove in the rotor. After getting into it, the pads had 0 life left on the passenger side. I replaced both rear pads and both rear rotors to to be on the safe side, but when I got to the driver side rear the pads still have some life left. Also when I went to skrew in the Rear passenger piston it was hard as hell to do and took two ppl, but the driver side was way easy. I am just trying to figure out why the passenger side wore out so much faster then the driver side.

Thanks for any help in advance.

 

I can't draw a concrete conclusion to your issue, but, by the descroption of your pistons in the calipers, there is something wrong with the rear passenger side piston. I don't know what might've contributed to it failing before the driver's side.


Have you found any more info out since you've done the brake job?

 

maybe improper installation of brake pads before?

 

WRONG.....the reason one side wore out faster then the other has to do with the slave cylinder and one side caliper grabbing harder then the other....the way u described ur issue i am about 99% sure that is the reason....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92jdmhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WRONG.....the reason one side wore out faster then the other has to do with the slave cylinder and one side caliper grabbing harder then the other....the way u described ur issue i am about 99% sure that is the reason....</TD></TR></TABLE>


can you elaborate more on this....... it explains nothing......

slave cylinder and one side caliper........

yeah, we have already established that the one side wore out faster, but how does your statement explain that......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ScreaminTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can't draw a concrete conclusion to your issue, but, by the descroption of your pistons in the calipers, there is something wrong with the rear passenger side piston. I don't know what might've contributed to it failing before the driver's side.


Have you found any more info out since you've done the brake job?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thats what I was thinking as well, but I just got done with the install yesterday. Everything seems to be working just fine as of now, but I will make sure to keep an eye on it in the mean time 'till I figure out what's wrong.

 

Okay...following up....theres 2 things that could be possible...
1. Theres no fluid pressure to one caliper....that would be because of ur master cylinder...which would probably need to be replaced....
2. The caliper is getting stuck to something on one side...( you would probably have to get that one checked out...i myself arent too sure in that scenario).

 

Well dont think its the MC because my pedal feel is just fine and doesnt fade to the floor at all. I am going to do a whole brake fluid system flush this weekend though, hopefully that will help out.

 

 

let us know if bleeding helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92jdmhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay...following up....theres 2 things that could be possible...
1. Theres no fluid pressure to one caliper....that would be because of ur master cylinder...which would probably need to be replaced....
2. The caliper is getting stuck to something on one side...( you would probably have to get that one checked out...i myself arent too sure in that scenario).</TD></TR></TABLE>

I doubt that he is not getting fluid or pressure to one side, otherwise the pads wouldn't be worn at all.

The caliper is getting stuck to something on one side? Thanks capitan obvious. If one side is severely worn down than the other, it's pretty easy to concur that one side is riding the rotor more than the other.

How 'bout this Bryant, inspect the e-brake cable connection. I've not looked at the S2000 setup, but I know on my old Integra if I didn't get that back on just right I would wear pads out faster because there would be some tension in the cable.

Also, is it possible there is a "pinch" in the line somewhere on the side that was worn badly? I just thought this because if there was, it may be enough to apply pressure to the piston and push the pads in some at all times. Just a theory...

 

All good things the check out Mr. ScreaminTeg. As I was working on it, it looked like all the ebrake and brake lines where fine to me. No cracks or kinks as far as I could see. I have noticed that after the pad swap the car does stop a tone better then before and pedel feel is tens times better then before too. Maybe the person before me that had the car might have installed something wrong and thats why it got that weird wear pattern.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All good things the check out Mr. ScreaminTeg. As I was working on it, it looked like all the ebrake and brake lines where fine to me. No cracks or kinks as far as I could see. I have noticed that after the pad swap the car does stop a tone better then before and pedel feel is tens times better then before too. Maybe the person before me that had the car might have installed something wrong and thats why it got that weird wear pattern.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmm it could be bad install. check the pads after a few miles (prob alot of miles). that wayyou will know if it was the previous install

 

Well just driving from work and back (2 miles) I havent been able to tell anything. But drove to a friends house today and there is def. something wrong. Rear passenger side was really hot and the rotor was accually bright red after a 15-20 min. drive. I could let out on the clutch to and feel the car slowing with out using the brakes. Looks like I might just be taking this into Honda.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well just driving from work and back (2 miles) I havent been able to tell anything. But drove to a friends house today and there is def. something wrong. Rear passenger side was really hot and the rotor was accually bright red after a 15-20 min. drive. I could let out on the clutch to and feel the car slowing with out using the brakes. Looks like I might just be taking this into Honda.</TD></TR></TABLE>

prob your ebrake cable

 

cant be, because I never touched it and it has always worked fine... but worth honda checking. I'm thinking its the brake booster is bad, caliper is bad or the ebrake cable some how got tightened on one side.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cant be, because I never touched it and it has always worked fine... but worth honda checking. I'm thinking its the brake booster is bad, caliper is bad or the ebrake cable some how got tightened on one side.</TD></TR></TABLE>

let us know what the dealership says

 

Just heard back from them. RR caliper needs to be replaced. Oh well. Thanks for the all the help guys.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryant &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just heard back from them. RR caliper needs to be replaced. Oh well. Thanks for the all the help guys.</TD></TR></TABLE>

warranty or out of pocket?

 

Out of pocket. Would just do it my self, but kinda tired of dealing with the whole thing and really could use my car back.

 

Its just a seized caliper. I had the same prob with my left rear caliper last month. Any honda dealer offers the rebuild kit for about $20, it basically requires you to take apart the caliper and replace the piston seals. I wasn't confident enough to do this myself.

Or just buy a new caliper from them, Mine came out to $160 after i got my $60 core charge back. Its really easy to replace, just a couple bolts, brake line, and e-brake cable. (I did it myself, and I am far from a mechanic). Good luck!

 

replacing the caliper is not hard at all. i'd help you out but you're kinda far

 

Yeah I was looking at the rebuild kit, but when I got the call from them today they want like 400 and change to do the job. I'm guessing they are changing the whole caliper. I need to call them up in the morning and see what the hell is going on.

 

400 is nuts, i'll do it for some good food and liquor

 

ha ha then he probally wont be able to stop when he leaves