Well a friend of mine has a 94 LS with i/h/e but at school today we were changing the spark plugs, and they were covered in oil, and oil was at the bottom also. Later to find out it was a bad ring. So now is a good time to go ahead and start building the motor up. What are some good ideas on a good buildup. He doesnt want to go turbo or nos. But also doesnt want to go all out. A list of parts would help out alot. thanks

 

well if ur gonna be inside the motor replacing the rings then u might as well get it bored and have oversized pistons,good rings, maybe do rods and crank depending on what power levels are wanted. Also a fully built head like P&P,cams,valves,springs,retainers then intake mainifold, header but the question come does he want to do a LS/VTEC conversion? if so needs a vtec conversion kit and a head if not just build up the one he has. Go to nopi.com and go on their E-CAT store, put in his car and all the parts for it will be listed and work from there, hope this helps

 

He doesnt really want to do LS/VTEC as of now. We were planning on pistons,cams,springs,retainers,valves,intake manifold. Still debating on P&P even though its a good idea. Also of the things I listed what are some good brands?

 

Personally I would pull out the motor. Send the block and head to jg and have them do the work. For about 2000 they will rebuild the ls block with all gsr parts. Including crank and balancing and new girdle. You can also send the head to them too to port and polish or see if they will take core for a v tec. Then all you have to do is bolt the head onto the block and install motor back in car. You will possibly need a s-afc or hondata. Hondata is wayyyy better. Take my word for it I have a 99 ls converted to manual, with gsr head gsr tranny, hondata, NX 10 pound bottle, turbonetics turbo, and jg built the block and head for me all I did was slap it together and tune. It is an everyday driver that has hit over 600 hp on dyno. And is very reliable. Call JG ask them they are the pro's. Don't screw around and waste money. Half the people on here don't even know how to change there oil.

 

what he sed, me i gave more of a poor man route since well i dont have the funds to fully build a motor in and out. Me iv got a cat-back and header soon CAI and mainfold then a ZEX wet kit with cams down the road should be a descent daily friver set-up. as for companies on a LS non-vtec crower makes cams skunk2 only have vtec cams,intake mainfold skunk2 or edelbrock, pistons and rods vast majority make them, valves,springs and retainer id get skunk2 top of the line

 

for 800, you can transplant a b20 into the LS, use the cams that are in the LS and either use the stock LS intake Manifold or for the purists get an AEBS manifold that will flow more air, either way its the most cost effective way to go.

 

Do not get rid of your crank! Thats just stupid, you already have a longer stroke than a GSR! My suggestion is the following:

-.25 overbore(if you want to)
-PR3(B16) .25 overbore pistons(if you chose overbore,if not than get the standard 81mm)
-New rings and bearings
-98 or newer oil pump

-Crower 403
-Crower Valvetrain
-Good I/H/E
Skunk 2 IM

 

i never sed i was gonna get rid of my crank, and a swap i cant do now since i dont have a garage and really no place to swap it at plus my B18A only has 101K on it right now so bolt-ons are what im gonna do, i really want to do a B20 with vtec and boost but im poor since im only 17 and pay for everything i have/do and work at outback steakhouse so imcome is all the good. but thanks for the tips and suggestions im always open to ideas
also im not sure what the crower 403's are? im on nopi now looking at the cams and dont see them


Modified by DarkDragon at 1:10 AM 1/21/2005

 

stay away from Nopi, they are a rip-off! Go to http://www.Crower.com to check out the cams, but get them from another dealer. They can be had for $350-$370 a set.

http://www.JHPUSA.com has PR3 Pistons(standard and overbore) for $249 with rings

 

think about a vtec oil and water pump, put a baffle section in the oil pan that holds another quart, oem bearings, arp bolts an studs, good gaskets and a hondata im gasket

 

thanks to everyone for the replies but i feel i have hijacked this thread and its not what i intened to do so if someone feels that way im sorry it was not my intention to but good info is beeing posted

 

well went to crower and found the cam,good profile and found the springs and retainers, now for the pistons u sed PR3, im new to the honda world so all the short hand abreviations i dont know but i did see that the ITR pistions yielded 11:1 and the B16 pistions yielded 10.4:1 both 179.99 but what would the comp come to with B18A head? would i need rods? want to keep the car streetable and would a skunk2 mainfold be good idea?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DarkDragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well went to crower and found the cam,good profile and found the springs and retainers, now for the pistons u sed PR3, im new to the honda world so all the short hand abreviations i dont know but i did see that the ITR pistions yielded 11:1 and the B16 pistions yielded 10.4:1 both 179.99 but what would the comp come to with B18A head? would i need rods? want to keep the car streetable and would a skunk2 mainfold be good idea?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No you have it backwards. The following Pistons(with part #'s) yeild the following compression # in an LS block:

USDM ITR(P73-AO) 10.3:1
JDM ITR(P73-00): 10.6:1
USDM B16(PR3): 10.8:1
JDM B16(P30): 11.1:1
CTR(PCT):12.4:1

 

High horsepower motors favor the shorter B18c 87.2-mm crank and longer rod over the larger Ls 89-mm crank and shorter rod so it can rev higher without damage. The ls might last for a while but this is the best possible set up. Oh! by the way, save you money and buy a faster car b/c your integra with every bolt on with no vtec, nitrous or turbo will probably put down 160 hp max if you are lucky and when your only reving to 7,000 rpm you will still be running 15'S in the quarter. If that's how much you want sell your car and buy a gsr or do a gsr or h22 (Prelude) swap. Trust me I have done this before to an ls.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trboteg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">High horsepower motors favor the shorter B18c 87.2-mm crank and longer rod over the larger Ls 89-mm crank and shorter rod so it can rev higher without damage. The ls might last for a while but this is the best possible set up. Oh! by the way, save you money and buy a faster car b/c your integra with every bolt on with no vtec, nitrous or turbo will probably put down 160 hp max if you are lucky and when your only reving to 7,000 rpm you will still be running 15'S in the quarter. If that's how much you want sell your car and buy a gsr or do a gsr or h22 (Prelude) swap. Trust me I have done this before to an ls. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Check my sig please and my LS is not fully built. Also I ran 14.4's stock LS motor w/ B16 tranny in my SI HB(2326lbs.). That was with 123whp, now I have 170whp! There is an allmotor B20 on HT that puts down 200whp, and turbo LS can make 400+ whp. There is a dyno on importreview.com as well that is a turbo LS that made 672 whp. Vtec isnt everything!