first should it take a shop 8 hrs to wire 88crxsi to obd1 ? i don't think so but i could be wrong they wanted 600 to do the conversion i must have looked dumb
second do i need any thing more than:
obd1 distributor
4 wire o2 sensor
harrness
and p28 ecu
and does any one have any of these for sale ?
or cheap hondata ?
and how hard is it to wire the conversion ?

 

dont pay some shop to put that in, and I wouldn't go back there for anything if that is what they are charging. Sounds like they 1) either don't know what all is involved with the swap, or 2) they like to rip people off.

All you have to do is:
1) OBD1 ecu, I don't know which one since you didn't mention which engine you have
2) 4 wire o2 sensor
3) conversion harness
4) ability to do some wiring

and lastly, search on the board cause there is alot of information on this and it isn't all that hard to do.

 

yeah i think they like ripping people off the shop name is knoledge preformance in kennesaw ga becarfful if you go there dont talk to the black dude at the front counter talk to one of the guys in the back if you can


second i havent been able to find any ecaxt specks as far as timming and stuff i have an mini-me swap with stage 2 cam came gear titamium valve springs and retainers
but i need :
valve timming specs
ignition timing specs
fuel presure specs

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thumbtack &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
All you have to do is:
1) OBD1 ecu, I don't know which one since you didn't mention which engine you have
2) 4 wire o2 sensor
3) conversion harness
4) ability to do some wiring

and lastly, search on the board cause there is alot of information on this and it isn't all that hard to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Also need the distributor.

Coversion is stupid easy and should take you less than 2 hours since it's your first time. After that you should be able to do them less than 45 minutes if everything goes fairly smooth.

 

thE OBD CONVERSION IS SOME WHAT INVOLVED FOR A NEW HONDA OWNER. This process involves alot of research and patience. If i were to do it over again, i'd get the conversion harness or make one for the ecu connection. The engine bay harness needs the injectors from the obd 1 vehicle, 4 wire o2 ,knock sensor, vtec prs, vtec sol, also the distributor needs to be wired , im sure you can use the obd 0 dist., but the obd 1 is optimum. THere is alot of information on the internet, sorry i have no web sights handy,but do a search and you will find.
My ef9 civee is running fine on obd 1 but the p 28 ecu sucks ***, the red line is a 7800

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by picasso1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> The engine bay harness needs the injectors from the obd 1 vehicle, </TD></TR></TABLE>
You can use the obd0 injectors as long as you keep the injector resistor box.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by picasso1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also the distributor needs to be wired , im sure you can use the obd 0 dist., but the obd 1 is optimum. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Can't use the obd0 distributor. You need to use the obd1 distributor.

 

i'm in the process of this swap also, so if i dont have the z6 engine harness and i have my crx si engine harness, i can you my crx si engine harness along with my injectors! Great. Would their be any benefit to using the Saturated injectors off the z6? any difference ? Also do all the sensors plugs on the crx si engine harness all plug into the existing sensors on the z6? I dont have the z6 engine haress or plugs, i only have the sensors that are on the engine. I have the ecu conversion haress, obd1 distributor and p28 ecu and o2 sensor. Am i missing anything that i need to complete the swap?

 

One major benefit of going to obd1 injectors is that it cleans up the engine bay a bit, since they're directly wired to the ECU, and you dont have to have that bulky resistor box laying around. Also, I had to swap over when I went to get my car inspected for the BAR test (only applicable if you're in California and trying to go legit with your swap)

A lot of the main plugs should plug in, but you'll need some extra plugs for things like the vtec solenoid, etc.

 

when you say 4 wire o2 i can just grab one off an 92-95 ex right? or go to an auto store and buy a new o2 sensor for a ex/si?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LoCoReX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you say 4 wire o2 i can just grab one off an 92-95 ex right? or go to an auto store and buy a new o2 sensor for a ex/si?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, get a used one if its cheap or a universal 4 wire one from Bosch or Denso

either way it should like $50.00 bucks or less for one.

 

thanx guys this has been helpful does any one have an old p28 laying around

 

yeah i need one of those too lol

 

PM Blown90Hatch for you great conversion harness

 

i got mots of my stuff now ecu, conversion harrness, and o2 sensor
wating for a little more cash to get the distributor
but how do i plug it up it is defanitly diffrent plugs any one got a digram ?

 

its easy. Get a obd1 ecu harness dizzy plugs (cut the off harness) Get obd 0 dizzy and cut off the plugs on the dizzy. Now splice the 2 wire connect from both together and the splice the 2 (i think 6 wire) connects together. Now plug the obd 0 size into your engine harness and the obd 1 side of the connect ot he dizzy. This way if your dizzy goes bad you can test another one really fast easy...

Josh

 

on the conversion harrness there are labels i don't know what some of them mean :
service check signal
knock signal
power intake air bypass
intake air bypass signal (p72/p13)

 

I think I know what those are.

service check signal - that wire 'should" lead to the blue connector that is under your dash. The blue connector being the one that you put a jumper (paperclip) in to disable your ECU electronic igntion advance when you set your ignition timing. On OBD-1 cars, you short that connector to set your timing AND you short it to read ECU codes. There isn't an LED in the ECU that kicks out the codes when you have a CEL. On OBD-1 you get an CEL, short the connector, and the codes blink out on the CEL in the gauge cluster instead of an LED in the ECU.

Knock - only applies if you are putting in an engine that has a knock sensor. A lot of people run chipped ECU's that have knock disabled. This wire would not be applicalble to those cars.

Intake Air Bypass Signal (IABS) - it applies to the GSR swap. GSR intake manifold has a set of butterflies inside the intake manifold. They open and close depending on the RPM to achieve better low and high rpm performance.

Power Intake Air Bypass - Power wire for the IAB.

 

thanx
any body have a pigtail for the ditributor
?