Well I finally got a got a gas lens and have been playing with settings. Here is the out come. This is on a log manifold.



The beads are approximately 1/2" wide. I am using a Miller Syncrowave 180sd so no I am not using pulse and I didnt pump the pedal on these.

 

what does in back side of the weld look like ?? and are you purging ???? looks good man

 

On this manifold I didnt purge and that manifold is already gone so I cant get a picture of the inside of it. I am working on a new one though and will get picks when it is done.

 

how much penatration are you getting ??? and did you use filer on them ??

 

yes I used filler and I got 100% penetration on this one.
since I didnt purge this one I ended up having to clean up the 100% penetration with my die grinder.

 

did you know that the weld is weaker cus you got the 100% with out the purging , it would have ben stronger at less penatration cus the oxygen would have never ben able to get to the back side of the weld, but i dont think it matters that much any ways , its not like there is alot of stress on a log mani any way,

 

yes I did know this, but that is the way I have been doing it for over a year now and I have never had any manifold crack or anything on me so I guess it doesnt hurt it to much.

 

How many passes are you putting on each weld joint?

Although the weld looks ok, I think that there's room for improvement if you use proper techniques.

As for purging, The time you spend grinding is likely more costly than using more gas to purge....unless you don't value your time at much of a dollar amount.... besides, I'd bet that there's places in the manifold that are very difficult (if not impossible) to get to the inside and grind out. And the price of these grinding stones and stuff is outrageous these days.

I priced some small sanding pads recently, and if I buy 100 at a time, they came out to be about $3.75 each!!

 

welds look good

 

looks good. you using a pulser?>

 

They look pretty decent, not burning the metal so thats a good sign. Looks like a tad more filler could help them out.. they appear to be concave all the way around. When TIG welding i try to keep it perfectly level with the surface or a little convex.

 

Well I buy my grinding stones in bulk from a machinest store. I get 100 1" ball 60-100 grit grinding stones for 40$ so it is cheaper for me to just grind smooth. Also I do plan on doing some purging soon, as soon as I get hold of a second tank and regulator all my manifolds will be purged.

I lay down a series of beads to get the welds to look like this.
First I do a non filler rod fusion weld at 130amps to insure deep penetration.
Second I do a weld on top of the first but this time I use 100 amps and 1/16 filler rod to build up the weld to make it thick and strong again.
Third I do what I call a bead cap, basically I just do another weld on top of the previous without filler rod and use 80 amps but this time I make larger circles to give it a nice clean finish, I also increase gas from on this weld from 18cfm to around 25cfm to ensure I get a nice color on top.

I know this is probably not the correct or most effecient way to tig but I only have 6 months of tig experience am still in high school and have had zero formal training and this is the only way I can go about getting nice looking welds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExploitedRacing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They look pretty decent, not burning the metal so thats a good sign. Looks like a tad more filler could help them out.. they appear to be concave all the way around. When TIG welding i try to keep it perfectly level with the surface or a little convex.
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Actually they are not concave. They are flat in the first picture at the right where it apears concave and everywhere else they are slightly convex.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks good. you using a pulser?&gt;</TD></TR></TABLE>
nope, my welder doesnt have a pulser and no I wasnt pumping the pedal.

 

Must just be the picture givin the illution of it bein caved in. Keep it up!

 

If anybody happens to know of any good Tig welding schools in Houston Tx please tell me as I wish to keep on making manifolds and wish to get better at welding.

 

Only problem.....Undercutting. Other than that, The beads are getting very consistant, so add a little more filler material and keep it up.

 

very nice

 

On the top pics there is a pinhole/porosity. What r u useing this piece for? make sure you dont dip the tungsten in the puddle when you r welding.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BmCRace.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Also I do plan on doing some purging soon, as soon as I get hold of a second tank and regulator all my manifolds will be purged.
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You can use one bottle and a splitter to purge this stuff. That's what I use at home, and it works fine.
[QUOTE=BmCRace.com]I lay down a series of beads to get the welds to look like this.
I know this is probably not the correct or most effecient way to tig but I only have 6 months of tig experience am still in high school and have had zero formal training and this is the only way I can go about getting nice looking welds./QUOTE]
Actually, you are wrong here...the correct way is to weld it with at least 2 passes when the material is this thick. I'm not saying that it's impossible to weld in one pass, but you aren't going to get much consistency if you do them in one pass, and you're a lot more likely to burn it up that way too.

 

lol that isnt a pinhole, that is where i dropped the manifold on the ground by accidenty and it landed on a nail : (

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can use one bottle and a splitter to purge this stuff. That's what I use at home, and it works fine.
[QUOTE=BmCRace.com]I lay down a series of beads to get the welds to look like this.
I know this is probably not the correct or most effecient way to tig but I only have 6 months of tig experience am still in high school and have had zero formal training and this is the only way I can go about getting nice looking welds./QUOTE]
Actually, you are wrong here...the correct way is to weld it with at least 2 passes when the material is this thick. I'm not saying that it's impossible to weld in one pass, but you aren't going to get much consistency if you do them in one pass, and you're a lot more likely to burn it up that way too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I said I lay down a total of 3 beads before I am done. So according to what you said I should be on the right track, right?

 

WOW i bet you couldnt do that again is there a hole through material? Thats crazy ive never seen that before it sure looks like a pinhole to me but...what ever. What about the three spots in the last pic, whats up with that?

 

no its not a hole all the way thru just a surface nick, and the 3 "holes" on the other picture i dont know about them. i never touched the tungsten to the puddle on them and they just appread there after welding it. my only guess as to what they are is not cleaning the medal good enough so that is dust or something.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BmCRace.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I said I lay down a total of 3 beads before I am done. So according to what you said I should be on the right track, right?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, and after you get this down pretty slick (and purging), try it with about a 1/16" gap and lay the wire in the gap and weld it up...

or try a little more heat or a little slower speed, but add a little wire on the first pass. You may be able to get it down to 2 passes and save some welding time.