b16 or d15bvtec
if you had to choose between a b16 swap and a d15bvtec which one would you choose??? b16s make about 160hp and about 120tq. d15b makes about 130hp and about 115tq. b16 costs between $3000 and $5000 to swap in and you have to beat your frame in. d15b engines go for around $400, i got mine with an ecu for $350. overall i havn't seen any b16s with same mods as my d15b outperform it. i bought my whole swap for cheap, engine and ecu $475 shipped , si tranny $50 , act streetlite flyweel $200, xtd clutch $175, wiring $120. thats under $1100 ........ i just wanna see what you guys think. my car hit a 14.8 on bald tires.
I wouldnt choose either one..
d15b vtec is only sohc and there aren't to many aftermarket parts.
Plus its hard to find some parts..You have to match **** up..
b16 is only a 1.6 and will never have any torque without overborring..
I would get a b18a..You can get them everywhere for $300-$500 for the whole swap..
d15b vtec is only sohc and there aren't to many aftermarket parts.
Plus its hard to find some parts..You have to match **** up..
b16 is only a 1.6 and will never have any torque without overborring..
I would get a b18a..You can get them everywhere for $300-$500 for the whole swap..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mrspeaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldnt choose either one..
d15b vtec is only sohc and there aren't to many aftermarket parts.
Plus its hard to find some parts..You have to match **** up..
b16 is only a 1.6 and will never have any torque without overborring..
I would get a b18a..You can get them everywhere for $300-$500 for the whole swap..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then use the rest you saved by buying the ls to put together a turbo kit and have 250whp reliably...
d15b vtec is only sohc and there aren't to many aftermarket parts.
Plus its hard to find some parts..You have to match **** up..
b16 is only a 1.6 and will never have any torque without overborring..
I would get a b18a..You can get them everywhere for $300-$500 for the whole swap..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Then use the rest you saved by buying the ls to put together a turbo kit and have 250whp reliably...
i said (if you have to choose between the two) and i find it unlikely to find a b18a swap for 300-500, maybe engine and tranny. my friend got a b18b swap for 500 with hasport linkage and no axles or ecu and hasport mounts, all recipts tallied up to about 1300 give or take a few bucks. that was a really good deal and $500 later it is running strong.
my buddy has a d15bvtec and its slower than dirt. My crx b16 will suck him up in any race. With no mods I can hit a 14.3. I think b16 is a better and more efficient way to go but if you have already got all those parts for that cheap I'd stick with it or start selling on ebay!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ihateslowhondas »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i said (if you have to choose between the two) and i find it unlikely to find a b18a swap for 300-500, maybe engine and tranny. my friend got a b18b swap for 500 with hasport linkage and no axles or ecu and hasport mounts, all recipts tallied up to about 1300 give or take a few bucks. that was a really good deal and $500 later it is running strong.</TD></TR></TABLE>
At this junkyard in middlesex $500 gets you complete motor swap,all wiring,Exhaust,front suspension,and radiator,,You pull out everything you want,,
Some cars have under 60,000 miles on them ,,some have 200,000 miles
Just find a junk 90-93 integra and take the ****..
At this junkyard in middlesex $500 gets you complete motor swap,all wiring,Exhaust,front suspension,and radiator,,You pull out everything you want,,
Some cars have under 60,000 miles on them ,,some have 200,000 miles
Just find a junk 90-93 integra and take the ****..
a b16 is a decent angine but it just costs a lot to swap and has lots isuues unless you get all the wiring and stuff straight. with all the money you save by buying the d15 you can drop in bran new p29 pistons and eat a b16 alive. some b16s run like crap some d15s run like crap but in thier prime they are decent competition for one another if you use the money you saved on the d15 to build or boost it. when you swap in a b18a you need axles which are often cut at the yard unless you are lucky, you need shift linkage unless you ca do it yourself , motor mounts and a new clutch is usually a good idea. regardless b18s rock ***** in an ef, i am not going to dissagree.
Trending Topics
dude, dont listen to anything these guys are saying, btween the 2, id go with a JDM B16A2, 170 hp, 117 ft lb trq, stock, with a 2 1/4 in. exhaust my buddies rips 207 hp, and 122 ft lbs trq. these motors rip dude, u dont need as much torque as u think u do with a b16, torque is off the line power, in the end, the b16 wins
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF Turbo Driver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, dont listen to anything these guys are saying, btween the 2, id go with a JDM B16A2, 170 hp, 117 ft lb trq, stock, with a 2 1/4 in. exhaust my buddies rips 207 hp, and 122 ft lbs trq. these motors rip dude, u dont need as much torque as u think u do with a b16, torque is off the line power, in the end, the b16 wins
</TD></TR></TABLE>
except there is no jdm b16a2...sorry buddy.
</TD></TR></TABLE>except there is no jdm b16a2...sorry buddy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mrspeaker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldnt choose either one..
d15b vtec is only sohc and there aren't to many aftermarket parts.
Plus its hard to find some parts..You have to match **** up..
b16 is only a 1.6 and will never have any torque without overborring..
I would get a b18a..You can get them everywhere for $300-$500 for the whole swap..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you have to understand most people, arent looking to make their cars 12 second street terrors. most are satisfied (are least in the beginning) with 14's.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beastrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my buddy has a d15bvtec and its slower than dirt. My crx b16 will suck him up in any race. With no mods I can hit a 14.3. I think b16 is a better and more efficient way to go but if you have already got all those parts for that cheap I'd stick with it or start selling on ebay!</TD></TR></TABLE>
right. stock b16 and 14.3 mmhmm. is your last name christ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF Turbo Driver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, dont listen to anything these guys are saying, btween the 2, id go with a JDM B16A2, 170 hp, 117 ft lb trq, stock, with a 2 1/4 in. exhaust my buddies rips 207 hp, and 122 ft lbs trq. these motors rip dude, u dont need as much torque as u think u do with a b16, torque is off the line power, in the end, the b16 wins </TD></TR></TABLE>
WHOA! so you mean to tell us that you're butt buddy has gained 37 horsepower and 5 torque by putting in an exhaust? We really need to talk then!!!!!!!!!!
not only is this an extravegant amount. way to make it not match up to the torque gain.
d15b vtec is only sohc and there aren't to many aftermarket parts.
Plus its hard to find some parts..You have to match **** up..
b16 is only a 1.6 and will never have any torque without overborring..
I would get a b18a..You can get them everywhere for $300-$500 for the whole swap..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
you have to understand most people, arent looking to make their cars 12 second street terrors. most are satisfied (are least in the beginning) with 14's.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beastrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my buddy has a d15bvtec and its slower than dirt. My crx b16 will suck him up in any race. With no mods I can hit a 14.3. I think b16 is a better and more efficient way to go but if you have already got all those parts for that cheap I'd stick with it or start selling on ebay!</TD></TR></TABLE>
right. stock b16 and 14.3 mmhmm. is your last name christ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF Turbo Driver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, dont listen to anything these guys are saying, btween the 2, id go with a JDM B16A2, 170 hp, 117 ft lb trq, stock, with a 2 1/4 in. exhaust my buddies rips 207 hp, and 122 ft lbs trq. these motors rip dude, u dont need as much torque as u think u do with a b16, torque is off the line power, in the end, the b16 wins </TD></TR></TABLE>
WHOA! so you mean to tell us that you're butt buddy has gained 37 horsepower and 5 torque by putting in an exhaust? We really need to talk then!!!!!!!!!!
not only is this an extravegant amount. way to make it not match up to the torque gain.
CRX with 145whp and s1 tranny you can get high 13s i'll put money on it.
stock b16 in crx should yeild 14.3-14.7 depending on track conditions, driver and tires.
I seen a 14 flat at englishtown from a white crx with i/h/e and street tires.
stock b16 in crx should yeild 14.3-14.7 depending on track conditions, driver and tires.
I seen a 14 flat at englishtown from a white crx with i/h/e and street tires.
I would go bseries but I am a little biased. Maybe a boosted LS or a straight b16a swap. It depends on whether you want to stay N/A or go with a forced induction setup. And since when does a b16a cost 3000-5000???? I put in my 1g b16a in my garage for 2400 and that included:
Complete changeover from hmotorsonline
CM stage1 clutch
water pump, timing belt, thermostat, crank pulley
plugs and wires, cap and rotor, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket
new radiator hoses, alternator belt and pulley
new koyo radiator
Hasport mounts and linkage
raxles hybrid axles
Complete changeover from hmotorsonline
CM stage1 clutch
water pump, timing belt, thermostat, crank pulley
plugs and wires, cap and rotor, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket
new radiator hoses, alternator belt and pulley
new koyo radiator
Hasport mounts and linkage
raxles hybrid axles
Just remember, the b series Honda engines are some of the best designed and most reliable engines in the world. In the long run, i think its the best choice hands down.
If in a year you decide you want more torque, its only a b20 block away....there are so many options if you go b series.
If in a year you decide you want more torque, its only a b20 block away....there are so many options if you go b series.
i agree that a b16 swap is a great way to prepare for lsvtec or b20vtec. honestly i would go with the ls vtec over a b20 for the simple fact it is stronger and i have seen majorly better numbers from lsvtec. b20 could work if you wanted to completely build though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EF Turbo Driver »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dude, dont listen to anything these guys are saying, btween the 2, id go with a JDM B16A2, 170 hp, 117 ft lb trq, stock, with a 2 1/4 in. exhaust my buddies rips 207 hp, and 122 ft lbs trq. these motors rip dude, u dont need as much torque as u think u do with a b16, torque is off the line power, in the end, the b16 wins
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you serious..
The average b16 with I/H/E makes about 140hp to the wheels if you're lucky and less then 109tq..And theres no jdm b16a2,,The b16a2 comes in the USDM 99-00SI.
To get 207HP doesnt come from just an exhaust..You need to do some serious headwork and run high compression and get some nice cams,,
And while you're waiting for the b16 to make power and catch up the race will already be over..92-93 b18a with a 92-93 gsr tranny is the ****..
Heres the dyno sheet of a b16 with I/H/E a ecu chip and a little tuning..
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1114246

Modified by Mrspeaker at 7:43 PM 1/14/2005
</TD></TR></TABLE>Are you serious..
The average b16 with I/H/E makes about 140hp to the wheels if you're lucky and less then 109tq..And theres no jdm b16a2,,The b16a2 comes in the USDM 99-00SI.
To get 207HP doesnt come from just an exhaust..You need to do some serious headwork and run high compression and get some nice cams,,
And while you're waiting for the b16 to make power and catch up the race will already be over..92-93 b18a with a 92-93 gsr tranny is the ****..
Heres the dyno sheet of a b16 with I/H/E a ecu chip and a little tuning..
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1114246

Modified by Mrspeaker at 7:43 PM 1/14/2005
Gotta take into consideration the tranny and the weight of the car..... My 90 hf with b16a with 92 gsr tranny(ys1) rips all day on sohc and even the Si. It's all weight and what you want. Drag(light-2-light) or top end(freeway races). I love the short gears of the Ys1 and the b16a chirps all the way into 3rd in my ride...granted shitty *** tires....no doubts in my mind that. A chipped Ecu, tunning, and some minor tweaks to a b series triumph, in my mind, over any amount boosted d series. Everyone is impressed with a b series.....only a heavly modded/turbo'd/ FI D series gets an eyebrow or too....But then again i guess it's the one that gets out the fatest right.....The variations in both motor are so rediculous....it's pointless to quibble It comes down to $$$.....if you have it... go B series...If cash is not your friend. D series all the way and blow the socks off someone w/ P&p and nice new cam(s)
anyone seen an n/a b16 with no internals and stock intake manifold hit 13s???? ive seen boosted and built b16s that werent that impressive , couldnt break 13s but thats just because the driver couldnt drive well .i havent had a chance to run a b16 ef at the 1/4 mile yet but i drove and 88hf with b16a skunk 2 cams stock exhaust and crappy shift linkage, it felt capable of mid 13s with some tweaking. if i get ahold of that car some weekend after the tracks open i will post times , the guy that used to own it claimed it ran a 13.8 but i think he didnt know what the hell he was doing and lied about it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ihateslowhondas »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone seen an n/a b16 with no internals and stock intake manifold hit 13s???? ive seen boosted and built b16s that werent that impressive , couldnt break 13s but thats just because the driver couldnt drive well .i havent had a chance to run a b16 ef at the 1/4 mile yet but i drove and 88hf with b16a skunk 2 cams stock exhaust and crappy shift linkage, it felt capable of mid 13s with some tweaking. if i get ahold of that car some weekend after the tracks open i will post times , the guy that used to own it claimed it ran a 13.8 but i think he didnt know what the hell he was doing and lied about it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you can run 13s in a stock internal and manifold b16a1
you can run 13s in a stock internal and manifold b16a1
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PaImportTuner »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you can run 13s in a stock internal and manifold b16a1</TD></TR></TABLE>
You sure can
Between the 2 motors you listed Id go b16 hands down. A great motor for the crx, especially if you enjoy autoX.
you can run 13s in a stock internal and manifold b16a1</TD></TR></TABLE>
You sure can
Between the 2 motors you listed Id go b16 hands down. A great motor for the crx, especially if you enjoy autoX.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKSOHCV-TechRider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">d15b+turbo
Under $2000.</TD></TR></TABLE>
B16a+turbo>d15b+turbo. Over 2g's but still.
Edit:
I'd rather have an ls turbo tho. Around 800 for the block, a few grand on a turbo setup and you're set.
Under $2000.</TD></TR></TABLE>B16a+turbo>d15b+turbo. Over 2g's but still.
Edit:
I'd rather have an ls turbo tho. Around 800 for the block, a few grand on a turbo setup and you're set.



