My current setup on a 98 accord coupe.

Neuspeed Sways, Front and Rear
Neuspeed Upper Strut Bar
Tanabe Coilovers

During somewhat hard turns/cornering I still feel some body roll from the chassis. Is there anything else I can do to reduce this? There aren't a lot of suspension products out there for accords but anything would help.

 

well unless your suspension is hardcore or very well balanced there is always going to be some body roll...im not too knowledgeable on the tanabes but if the springs are not stiff enough that would be the first starting point IMO..and is thys on the street or track

 

The sway bars can only do so much, and a HUGE sway bar will damage an unbraced mount. What you feel as body roll may simply be the compression of the loaded side which can only be addressed by higher spring rates (which, by definition, will compress less under a given load). You also don't mention your tires, and rollover can be felt as body roll. I would also question your seat if it is the padded OEM variety. An OEM seat and OEM seat belt causes the driver's body to roll.

 

Chassis twist is often blamed on the suspension. The bad news is that a strut bar isn't going to cut it, and you're not going to be interested in a custom roll cage.

Does it feel loose for a breif moment, like a delay before the suspension takes affect? It causes a sudden transition as opposed to a smooth entry and exit.

 

All REAL cars have body roll, even F1 cars. Body roll is not necessarily a bad thing. There are two ways to get rid of body roll.

The first is to lower the center of gravity. If you lower the center of gravity far enough you can actually get the car to lean into turns! However in a street car there is no practical way to lower the center of gravity more than an inch (if you slam the car more than an inch). Lowering a street car a lot produces more problems than it solves. It makes it easier to bottom out the suspension which is hard on shocks, very bad for handling and hard on your back.

The second way to reduce roll is to increase spring or sway bar stiffness. Doing this has 2 negative effects. 1) It makes the car ride rough which 2) causes the wheels to leave the pavement more frequently and causes the car to hop and lose traction.

The question you should ask yourself is "why do I think that having the car lean in turns is a bad thing?" If your answer is "to make the car handle better" than you need to understand that the cars lean is a natural by product of a road car's suspension working properly. ELiminate lean and you have a car that is uncomfortable and dangerous. It will not be able to go over the smallest bumps without losing grip. Your car has one of the best suspension designs in the world. It is designed to accomadate more lean while still producing grip than other designs.

Don't worry about how much your car leans. Worry about how musch cornering force it can produce (oh, have you measured it yet?)

regards,
alan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00R101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The first is to lower the center of gravity. If you lower the center of gravity far enough you can actually get the car to lean into turns! However in a street car there is no practical way to lower the center of gravity more than an inch (if you slam the car more than an inch). Lowering a street car a lot produces more problems than it solves. It makes it easier to bottom out the suspension which is hard on shocks, very bad for handling and hard on your back.
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Not to argue, because i'm unsure of this,
but are you trying to say that if you lower your car more than 1", like say.. 2.5"
the center of gravity is still only lowered 1" ??? doesnt seem right to me.

also yes lowering to far can run into problems such as bottoming out your shocks and such. But there does NOT mean that you cannot overcome such problems.
even if it is a "street car" I mean, I'd guess half the people that browse this forum have full coilovers(such as the omnipower line, and most highend coilovers today) with dual adjust(preload and rideheight) so when you lower the car you can retain as much suspension travel/stroke as you want!

talking about bottoming out is something people had to worry about 5years ago, when all anyone used was illuminas, agx's and koni's.

heck even with those you can get around the bottoming out problem without too much hassle. I've got koni yellows, and more than enough suspension travel,even though i'm dropped like 2-3 inches.

(sorry for the rant)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tad &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
such as the omnipower line, and most highend coilovers today) with dual adjust(preload and rideheight) so when you lower the car you can retain as much suspension travel/stroke as you want!

talking about bottoming out is something people had to worry about 5years ago, when all anyone used was illuminas, agx's and koni's.

heck even with those you can get around the bottoming out problem without too much hassle.

(sorry for the rant)</TD></TR></TABLE>

And what do you do when you have full suspension travel but your chassis hits the ground before your suspension bottoms out? Ans what do you do when your upper control arms in the front collide with the chassis because there is no more room in the wheel well?