I want to flush the radiator in my 92 LX. I have read the threads that say to drain and refill a couple times to get everything out

However, I want to spray a steady stream of water down the radiator hose while the engine is running. I have seen radiator shops use this method. The question is which radiator hose do I spray into (the lower or upper?).

Also what is the direction path of coolant circulation?

 

the shop you been is doing it all right, i am sure no ASE certified shop would do it that way. the tap water is filled with mineral which is harmful for your car

Honda and most ase cert. auto repair shop use a machine that sucks out the coolant with an adapter that goes to the top radiator hose but i dont think you could have access to one.

you DO NOT have to drain and couple of time to have it drain compleletly, there's a drain plug in the radiator as well as engine block drain.

search for instruction, there's should be penlty around

 

Yeah i highly recommend removing the plug from the back of the block, it drained a lot of heavy crap that was stuck in the block itself! The plug is located right next to the oil filter and takes a 3/8 ratchet (no socket), you may want to change your oil at this time because you stand a good chance of denting your oil filter. I simply couldn't find a good way to brace the ratchet because its very tight and you need a long extension and the filter took the brunt of it.

Also make sure you turn on your heater full blast when you do this to flush out the heater core. While you're going this far I'd run a flush treatment as well. Prestone makes a good liquid flush in a couple different grades. Fill it with distilled water of course.

 

Schmitey, thanks so much for your tips. I will be sure to follow them.
However, do I shoot water through the lower radiator hose or the upper? Which way does the coolant circulate? Does it come down the upper hose and goes into the radiator and then to the lower hose? Once the block is completely clean and flushed, I plan on refilling it with distilled water.

 

don't "shoot" water through anything... just drain and refill.

 

After pressure testing my old radiator, it turns out there was a hairline leak at the top. Since it was the original Denso factory installed, I purchased a replacement one.

I drained the coolant from the old radiator and filled it with distilled water, turned the heater to max and started the car. I wanted to flush it as much as possible before I installed the new radiator. I tried looking for that engine block plug near the oil filter but could not find it (Anyone have a photo?)

I found one interesting thing. The heater hose going towards the firewall (closer to passenger side) had a T-fitting with a plastic sort of cap. I unscrewed that cap and about a pint of old fluid came out.

While I had the old radiator out, I also changed the torque strut mount. My old one was shot. After putting everything back, I feel confident that everything was done right. The car idles smoother due to the torque rod I changed. But I really wanted to drain the coolant from the engine block. So I am still not 100% content

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shehzada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Which way does the coolant circulate? Does it come down the upper hose and goes into the radiator and then to the lower hose? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I would like to know as well ??

Can someone explaing some thoery behind tis....like which hose should get hot first....role of the two hoses....Please explain in as detail as posible...we can make a post it note out of it.

I know I am asking to much but would appreciate it very much.

 

there's like half of the green coolant in the engine(head, block, intake manifold, heatercore, etc), the front radiator is only a part of the complex cooling system.

did you at least bleed the system?

 

the coolant circulate from the engine to the top(about 200degree) hose, down to the radiator(pressurized air to water intercooler, which is a excellent tool for removing heat by air current that pass through the brass fins), the lower hose is is about 100 degree which the hose will lead back to the engine block.

so it's a presurized, sealed, circulation system

anything true about the cooling system, it's not self-cleaing so there's why you should flush it every 2-3 years

 

ar..i wish i could take you a picture but i dont have a 4th gen accord or manual for that year.

but the drain plug is PRETTY big, bigger than the size of the oil plug for sure

 

Yes. I did thoroughly bleed the system.

As for the engine block coolant drain plug, I got confused because some say that it just takes a 3/8 rachet <U>and no socket </U>and say that it is inches from the oil filter.

When I looked around underneath, I found a bolt that takes a 3/4 socket and is located about 10 o'clock from the oil filter.


Modified by Shehzada at 6:23 PM 2/6/2005

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shehzada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When I looked around underneath, I found a bolt that takes a 3/4 socket and is located about 10 o'clock from the oil filter.</TD></TR></TABLE>Maybe that's it? The drain bolt has a pretty big flange under the hex-head. But I think they move it around or maybe it isn't even there for all years & all cars. What do you have, exactly?

Even draining that, it doesn't all come out. I set the heater to full-hot & take out the thermostat so it flows without restriction. Then I still have to drain/fill with clear water 4 or 5 times before it drains without any color.

Garden-hose water is so different from place-to-place, even different times of the year. Many types of anti-freeze can tolerate lime & stuff, but still...

 

Jim, you are right. That bolt I suspected does have a big flange around it. Doing it in my driveway, I could not get good leverage to get at that bolt. Is it even worth it to remove that drain bolt?

BTW, when you turn your heater to max hot, do you actually turn the fan on so that hot air is blowing? Do you do this with the engine running and while provide a steady source of water?

I think I might have gotten most of the old stuff out, because I drained and efilled it 3 times with distilled water.

 

On my '98, a lot of water came out of the drain plug. I suppose that's about the same for '92 but I'm not sure. I had to use a long breaker bar the first time. (That bolt will break loose suddenly, then you'll mash your knuckles against something.)

If your old antifreeze had a good color to it, you can watch what color drains out after a few rinses. Even taking the drain bolt out, I could see color after 3 times. If you can't get it out, just fill/drain a couple more times till it comes out clear. YMMV...

Don't need the ventilation fan. The only reason to turn the heat up is so air can't hang out in the heater core. In my '98, you have to turn the temperature dial with the key on, since the actual valve is driven by a servo. Maybe '92 has a direct cable??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shehzada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I found one interesting thing. The heater hose going towards the firewall (closer to passenger side) had a T-fitting with a plastic sort of cap. I unscrewed that cap and about a pint of old fluid came out. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Which year and model of Accord is it that you were working on, Shehzada?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shehzada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... The heater hose going towards the firewall (closer to passenger side) had a T-fitting with a plastic sort of cap...</TD></TR></TABLE>Is that cap the same size as a garden hose? That would have been added by someone so they could hook up a hose & flush water thru it. Prestone or someone sells those kits.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GuyverZen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which year and model of Accord is it that you were working on, Shehzada?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It is a 92 LX Coupe.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is that cap the same size as a garden hose? That would have been added by someone so they could hook up a hose & flush water thru it. Prestone or someone sells those kits.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, it seems like a garden hose could fit on it. I know it had threads on the outside (where the cap goes), but not sure if it had threads on the inside. However, the 2 clamps that held it in place looked like factory clamps (like the one u squeeze with pliers).

 

I would never let tap water touch my radiator! Too many minerals to corrode it. Use nothing but distilled water.

 

How many mechanics and radiator specialty shops do you think use distilled water? I agree with you 100% (I recently used nothing but distilled) but u have wonder whether or not tap water is that bad.

 

I would say most shops use tap water so they can get you back in their shop sooner. (More $$$ for them) IMO, using distilled water will prolong the life of a radiator.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shehzada &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... but u have wonder whether or not tap water is that bad.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Tap water is so very much different all over the place, so you can't really say. And some anti-freeze formulations tolerate it better than others.

If it's really dirty, I don't see what's bad. Run lots of tap water thru, then rinse a couple times with distilled. That's easier than 14 drain/fills with distilled, & the distilled is what stays when you finally fill it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tap water is so very much different all over the place, so you can't really say. And some anti-freeze formulations tolerate it better than others.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree! Back home we have some of the cleanest water in the country and I'd have no qualms about using it. Well water would be a whole different issue.

 

this is a stupid question but can you use brita water filters to clean the water or do you have to use a **** load of spring water just to fill it?

 

Spring water isn't much different than tap water. You want distilled water in your radiator. OTOH, distilled water isn't particularly good to drink.

 

I drained and refilled the radiator in my wife's car 4 times now, and I'm still getting green coolant out. I see some rust type residue in my drain pan. I want to install a flush kit. Has anyone installed a flush kit on a 99 Accord 4 cylinder?