I got 00 civic EX Auto with 45,000 miles. My car is heaving problem changing gear.
1. When I accelerate gear changes too early. When RPM is at 2500 it will change gear instead of changing around 3500.
2. Also if I am going 60mph in 4th gear then I hit brake and slow down till 20mph then hit gas, it suppose to change gear from 4th to 3rd or 2nd but it not doing that.

Anyone knows whats wrong? I also changed tranny fluid.

I know many of you going to tell me change it to 5spd but It would be stupid because I am planing to sell car in year and if I change to 5spd I won't get good $$$.

 

Yeah wouldn't it be nice if we could get some real tech around here instead of ignorant people bashing Honda automatics?

I think your problem may be the line pressure is too low. Make sure that the cable going from your trans to the throttle body is secured and that the deflection isn't out of spec.

Also, on automatics it is extremely important not to overfill them. After the car is warmed up and has been driven in gear, pull the dipstick within 15 seconds of shutting down the engine.

 

It wouldn't get you more cash if the tranny has problems. Call up honda or a performance shop, you'll get an instant answer, or at least an invatation to go check it out for a free estimate.


Good Luck


BTW I drive auto, I hate it, would change it if it was under a grand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hazem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It wouldn't get you more cash if the tranny has problems. Call up honda or a performance shop, you'll get an instant answer, or at least an invatation to go check it out for a free estimate.


Good Luck


BTW I drive auto, I hate it, would change it if it was under a grand.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I went to honda. Guy drove car but he did not see any problem. I don't think that guy knew what he was doing.
But he told me that my accelerator paddle is responding like it should.

 

on the d16z6 there is a throttle position cable from the intake manifold to the tranny, it tells the tranny how much you have the throttle depressed. you might want to check that it is adjusted properly. on the intake side its on the same pully that the throttle cable is on, the throttle cable goes to the drivers side and the tranny cable goes to the passenger side. it should be the same on your car, but im not 100% sure.

you have to hold the lever the cable goes into on the transmission from moving while you adjust the cable on the IM side to adjust it properly. if you tighten it up without holding the cable fixed at the transmission side than the transmission will think you have the throttle down when you dont. the opposite for too loose, when the throttle is opened the tranny may think it is not.

that being said, i found mine to be pretty loose, and i adjusted it and it made no change in my cars shifting /shrug

 

When you did the fluid did you do a complete flush or just drain the pan ? Where did you get the idea that the shift point rpm' s should be 3500 ? Is'nt it going to vary depending on the road grade and how much/fast you stomp on the gas ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alotawatts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When you did the fluid did you do a complete flush or just drain the pan ? Where did you get the idea that the shift point rpm' s should be 3500 ? Is'nt it going to vary depending on the road grade and how much/fast you stomp on the gas ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

My car had this issue even before I change my fluid.
When I am going 60mph and slow down till 20mph. I have to stomp on the gas if I want to change it from 4th to 3rd or 2nd.
So usually I put in D3 or D2 from D so car change gear.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by smokee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">on the d16z6 there is a throttle position cable from the intake manifold to the tranny, it tells the tranny how much you have the throttle depressed. you might want to check that it is adjusted properly. on the intake side its on the same pully that the throttle cable is on, the throttle cable goes to the drivers side and the tranny cable goes to the passenger side. it should be the same on your car, but im not 100% sure.

you have to hold the lever the cable goes into on the transmission from moving while you adjust the cable on the IM side to adjust it properly. if you tighten it up without holding the cable fixed at the transmission side than the transmission will think you have the throttle down when you dont. the opposite for too loose, when the throttle is opened the tranny may think it is not.

that being said, i found mine to be pretty loose, and i adjusted it and it made no change in my cars shifting /shrug</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks
I am going to try that this weekend

 

This may be an obvious question, but did you do the 30k mi transmission fluid drain and fill? My auto had a rough shift because I was about 10k mi over my service. Clean fluid, problem went away.

Just asking.

 

Sorry but nobody said anything about a rough shift.

Again, its the cable going from the tb to the trans, as I said when I was the first person to respond. Someone else confirmed it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shaundrake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry but nobody said anything about a rough shift.</TD></TR></TABLE>

:smack:
I am dumb.

 

Thanks guys for reply
IS this the cable you guys are talking about?
and what do I need to do with it?


[QUOTE=mct121]

 

anyone?

 

no no, thats the throttle cable, the kick down cable for hte auto tranny should be mounted right there on the TB too but it looks like that car in the pic is a 5 speed

 

First of all it is pretty hard to analyze
the situation without driving the car.
Especially with an automatic, because
there could be multiple reason it is doing this
that are not even the transaxle.

Secondly, the reason the transaxle shifts to a lower
gear when you press on the gas pedal is because
you are putting a load on the transaxle, therfore
it thinks you need to shift to a lower gear to speed up.
Like going up a hill if you stay in fourth and just press
down further on the pedal it will automatically downshift
for your torque needs. Or you can shift it yourself.

Thirdly, I recommend a thorough flush job. Than
a pan drip flush job, regularly.
Don't press on the gas pedal in park it will burn your
transaxle fluid in matter of seconds.

Fourth, if you drive hard, than this will happen. Try driving
a little easier, and slower.

Fifth, where did you get those readings of when the automatic
should change gears at those RPM's? Don't tell me the internet, please!!!
If you by chance got it from an internet site, than only trust Honda Copyrighted sites.
Because readings, have variables. As far as engine wear, transaxle wear, driving
conditions, previous repairs, what type of driving you do, where you drive, climate/temp.
and the list goes on. That is why do not trust a specific internet site, and compare
it to your car. A shop is the best resource for a transaxle problem. So go to more than one.
Not saying this site is bad, it is just hard to analyze the problem to the fullest.
Good luck, transaxle problems are a pain.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JdmGlenn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no no, thats the throttle cable, the kick down cable for hte auto tranny should be mounted right there on the TB too but it looks like that car in the pic is a 5 speed</TD></TR></TABLE>

no buddy it is auto. I just took pic. Here is one more pic if you can help me find that cable.

 

[QUOTE=
Secondly, the reason the transaxle shifts to a lower
gear when you press on the gas pedal is because
you are putting a load on the transaxle, therfore
it thinks you need to shift to a lower gear to speed up.
Like going up a hill if you stay in fourth and just press
down further on the pedal it will automatically downshift
for your torque needs. Or you can shift it yourself.
[/QUOTE]

Problem is transaxle is not shifting to a lower gear when I press on gas pedal and engine make more noise.

 

[QUOTE=
Secondly, the reason the transaxle shifts to a lower
gear when you press on the gas pedal is because
you are putting a load on the transaxle, therfore
it thinks you need to shift to a lower gear to speed up.
Like going up a hill if you stay in fourth and just press
down further on the pedal it will automatically downshift
for your torque needs. Or you can shift it yourself.
[/QUOTE]

Problem is transaxle is not shifting to a lower gear when I press on gas pedal and engine make more noise.

 

I asked if you did a complete fluid ATFluid flush..... ?
You should avoid continues driving in D2 -3 because I don't think automatic Honda's are designed for that.
You keep saying it wont downshift at all right ? Not even if you floor it (passing gear) or start up a steep hill ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alotawatts &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I asked if you did a complete fluid ATFluid flush..... ?
You should avoid continues driving in D2 -3 because I don't think automatic Honda's are designed for that.
You keep saying it wont downshift at all right ? Not even if you floor it (passing gear) or start up a steep hill ?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No I did not do complete fluid ATFluid flush.
it wont downshift at all right if I floor it and steep hill.

 

96-00 (EK) civic's have only one cable hooked up the intake and it's the throttle cable.

As for shift points on AT, it's usually between 2000 and 3000 rpm on normal road conditions. If you floor it, then it's between 6000 and 7000 rpm.

If you have to repair it, then shop around. Most places don't care what's wrong with them, they just put in a rebuilt one, and keep your broken one. Honda charges $4500 for this, and AAMCO is round $2500. There are some cheaper places, too, but remember, you get what you pay for.

 

Try using a throttlebody cleaner and a complete trans fluid flush. Let us know

Honda Auto Trans Flush provided by cmrvi1

1) Put the front of the car up on jackstands with the wheels off the ground. Put a large container under drain plug.
2) Remove the transmission drain plug (3/8" drive ratchet works fine). Let transmission drain and wipe sludge off drain plug.
3) Reinstall drain plug and snug (not tighten). Fill transmission with three quarts of ATF.
4) Start engine and shift into drive. Gently accelerate and let transmission upshift through the gears (don't go over 50 MPH).
5) Step on brakes and bring speedo to 0.
6) Shift into reverse and accelerate to 20 MPH.
7) Bring speedo back to 0 with brakes. Shift to park and shut off engine.
8) Repeat steps 2 through 7 TWO MORE TIMES.
9) Drain the transmission once more. Reinstall drain plug and tighten firmly (don't forget to reinstall crush washer).
10) Remove jackstands and put vehicle on level ground.
11) Fill transmission with 2 1/2 quarts of ATF. Start engine. Shift to drive, then reverse, then put back in park and shut off engine.
12) Check transmission fluid level. Top off if needed to bring fluid level to the top of the crosshatch marks on the dipstick.

 

I know there is nothing wrong with transmission because I took it to Honda Dealer and guy drove my car with me and he told me all I need to do is adjust cable.

But then he said 96-00 (EK) civic's have only one cable hooked up the intake and it's the throttle cable.

SO what is it that I need to adjust instead of cable? Does anyone knows what HOnda has change?

thanks

 

I've read somewhere about a cable that connects the automatic shifter to the transmission (don't know if all cars have them) maby that's the one the dealer was talking about.

 

kickdown valve possibly?