We all know the dents. I just picked up a dc sports header for really cheap. Does anyone have experience fixing the dents? Or anyone that can point me in the right way? I was thinking about cutting the pipe(both the down pipes, only one is dented) and using a tube expander to bring it back to its normal shape. Than welding it back together. ANyone have ideas, or options?

 

I don't think a pipe expander will work that great.

Maybe just cut out that area and reweld some metal in. Or weld a nut on, put a bolt in the nut and see if you can pull out the dents. Might want to heat it up so its easier to bend.

 

I have had good luck drilling a hole opposite the dent.Then heat the dented area evenly with oxy/acetylene and tap it out with a bunch and hammer thru to drilled hole.Then just weld the hole back shut.
Glenn

 

I was thinking of adding new tubing to replace it. I saw a small pipe expander that would get the deep part out, then the next size would make it the right size. I was also thinking of the possibility of cutting it adding new tube and a 2.5 collector instead of the 2.25.

Keep shooting me ideas.....

 

If you don't reroute the piping, what's the point in fixing it? It's going to become dented again.

 

well it got dented when it was on this guys integra that basically sat on the ground. My car is a good 2 inches higher than his was. So I shouldn't have the same problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by backpurge &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you don't reroute the piping, what's the point in fixing it? It's going to become dented again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Install a shield on the bottom of it and it won't.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJIN BUILDR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have had good luck drilling a hole opposite the dent.Then heat the dented area evenly with oxy/acetylene and tap it out with a bunch and hammer thru to drilled hole.Then just weld the hole back shut.
Glenn</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like a good idea.

 

I have heard that many motorcycle exhausts are repaired by putting some pressure in them and heating the dents. You may even find a place that does them and will do your header.

RMF says he's done a lot of motorcycle stuff, but he doesn't seem to be th emost helpful guy around.

 

I fixed spoon header today with two large dents on the bottom.

I cut out the dented area only (just the bottom part) and used a press, hammer, and vice to coax them back into shape.

Its not 100% like it was originally, but its pretty damn close and only cost me the small amount of gas & wire used.

 

man o man engloid...RMF has built some stuff for motorcycles he did my friends atv a 450 4 stroke and i noticed a difference....

 

bump for allot of good input, any more?

Thanks to all that have shared info

 

ttt

 

if i was in a hurry id prolly cut and hammer form or to do it real quick use an expander, the ide with the drilled holes and the punch sounds pretty good too

 

I'd have to agree...

Cut it at the middle of the dent and try the expander...then purge the tube and weld it back up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Engloid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have heard that many motorcycle exhausts are repaired by putting some pressure in them and heating the dents. You may even find a place that does them and will do your header.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

My dad has done this numerous times on 2-stroke pipes when us kids were younger and always running into ****. Although I am assuming that the wall thickness of the two are quit different?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EKhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My dad has done this numerous times on 2-stroke pipes when us kids were younger and always running into ****. Although I am assuming that the wall thickness of the two are quit different? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Typically, headers may be slightly thicker, but it can be done and you'll notice little difference. Heat and pressure can work wonders together.

 

Another motorcycle trick is to take off the pipe, cap off the dented side, fill it with water and then freeze it. Don't fill it too much because it needs to have room to expand, but not too much so it doesn't break the welds.

I've had good luck on stock yamaha pipes and aftermarket pipes (ie. fmf)

 

thanks for all the input guys, Tomorrow I'm going to stop by and have a guy look at it and decide which method to use.

 

What about the spot weld dent pullers? used in autobody? like a slidehammer without the hole.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunkwhat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about the spot weld dent pullers? used in autobody? like a slidehammer without the hole.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tried that, worked alright. Took a TON of em to get anywhere, and because of the shape of the dent it was hard to get good penetration for the studs.

 

cap the flanges install an air fitting in one of the caps you can take the dents out with a small but steady amount of pressure I use a line with a regulater on it the pressure will vary with the type of tubing and thickness take your time and carfully heat the dent until it starts to move I usually start from the perimeter of the dent and work in. If you dont make caps and try to use plugs be very careful because they will come out like there shot from a gun very dangerous I've done this on allot of camaro race headers and it works really well and is fast once you get the hang of it

 

would a SS mandrel u-bend of the same OD and gauge fix this?

Just cut out the section totally out and weld in the new piece?

 

I wouldn't mix ss and mild steel if I didn't have to.They expand at different rates and would probably crack the weld in a header.
Glenn

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xerox445 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would a SS mandrel u-bend of the same OD and gauge fix this?

Just cut out the section totally out and weld in the new piece?</TD></TR></TABLE>

another good idea! may be ahrd finding somehting in the same radius and mandrel bends aren't cheap either

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NJIN BUILDR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wouldn't mix ss and mild steel if I didn't have to.They expand at different rates and would probably crack the weld in a header.
Glenn</TD></TR></TABLE>

we do it all the time with no issues, well not all the time but we haven't had an issue of course SS to SS or MS to MS is prefferablle but hey sometimes you cant help it, just use the right welding rod