I've ran a search and I have gotten a little help from that. However, I plan on autocrossing this season(my first) and I want to be as competetive as possible. I will probably be running a R compound tire, but I'm not sure which one. I plan on removing the carpet and some other excess weight. I've noticed GC and Koni is the recommended set-up. But what spring rate? The car will be daily driven for now, although I'm not too worried about a stiff ride, because I plan on turning this car into a competition only car soon. If I go really stiff, will the Konis be up to it? Any recommended sway bar sizes? Camber kits or anything else? Please help me. I understand these are rather "newbie" questions, but that's just what I am at the moment with racing.


Oh and I drive a 95 hatch with a b series swap.
All help is appreciated. Thanks.


[Modified by WAFFLES, 10:26 AM 1/9/2002]

 

the Koni/Ground Control setup is a really good one, and yes they will handle higher spring rates if built properly by a place like truechoice. i don't know about spring rates or much else for a hatch.

 

Some folks are going to tell you that what you really need to do is leave the car alone for awhile and just get some seat time. There's definitely merit to that too. It's what I did. But I'm gonna talk about some of your questions...

IMO it's the ratio between front and rear rates that's important, and 2f/3r is about right for autocross (Civic specific). If you want something that won't require a kidney belt for longer trips (still rough though) then 300f/425r would be ok. Also, after about 400-450 lbs, you'll need to look into getting those Koni's re-valved. If you're not worried about "streetability", then 400f/600r would be a good choice. A lot of track cars go even higher, but if you're planning on autocrossing this car very much then super-high spring rates can cause problems. Tracks tend to be smoother than the locations that autocrosses are run in.

Another big recommendation I'd make is to look at the rules for the Street Mod class. Your motor swap already puts you there. It's an awesome class with a lot of freedom, but there are a few odd rules that you'll need to keep in mind. Along those lines, removing your carpet may be against the rules, but hey, you can slap a turbo on that motor swap! Good luck.

 

Is there a shock that I can buy that doesn't need to be revalved?

 

I am going to be generic and say if you want to be competetive then learn to drive the car before you mod it. If you mod then learn you may be fast someday but if you learn then mod you will be VERY fast because the mods can cover up bad habits/mistakes.

In terms of re-valving: If you are driving on the street then you don't want to run such a sick spring rate that you need to re-valve in the first place. Off-the-shelf Konis or Tokicos will do just fine up to 500# rates which IMO is probably a tad bit too high for autocrossing anyway.


[Modified by Cobra, 12:16 PM 1/9/2002]

 

Well My car has 112k Miles on it and the suspension has never been touvhed with the exception of some lowering springs. i figured since they were worn out, I might as well replace them with something nice.

 

yeah....if you are gonna need new ones might as well get something nice!

and if you start taking abunch of stuff out of your car....you will be put in a weird class, but if you have a different engine in your car, you will probably be in a modified class anyways. Have you looked into this at all?? do you know what class you will be in?? just curious.

and I agree with others....you should learn how to drive first then mod your car. Its fun to add a new mod each time you go, to see how well its improved your car.
I am missing the first autocross of the season this Sunday to install my Sway bars....hehehehe, so excited

 

He is in Street Modified or E Modified.

Stick with Street Mod. Your odds are better there - unless there are SM Supras and Talons where you are. If so then your mods just really don't matter . . .

 

A few supras, one Talon!