98 itr w/ 148k, considering buying, but worried about reliablilty.....
Hey guys there are a white 98 itr for sale with 148k its asking price is 13500. I am worried about reliability though it is a Honda. Car has had 3 owners and though I haven’t seen it imagine it is not mint condition.
Also I was wondering how much more insurance on a ITR is compared to a Gsr?
Any advice or info on price and what to check for would be great.
mine has only 81k and i am asking 14,000 so what does that tell you..
that guys is obviously smoking something for a price like that with milage like that.
yes, its an R but the bottom line is it is still an Integra with 150k on it.
that guys is obviously smoking something for a price like that with milage like that.
yes, its an R but the bottom line is it is still an Integra with 150k on it.
Well i told the guy i had 10k to spend and he told me to come check it out, he says he is moving out of town and needs to sell it now.
reliability is all about how the car was cared for.
Insurance depend on the driver's record partly but the ITR does have a higher symbol. If you search for Ins threads, you will see plenty of info to give you an idea.
Insurance depend on the driver's record partly but the ITR does have a higher symbol. If you search for Ins threads, you will see plenty of info to give you an idea.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by russianbigmac »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well i told the guy i had 10k to spend and he told me to come check it out, he says he is moving out of town and needs to sell it now.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
if he will sell it to you for 10k then do it... but def. not for 13,500
</TD></TR></TABLE>
if he will sell it to you for 10k then do it... but def. not for 13,500
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well even at 10k, its a lot of money for a 150k mile car but i think ill go see it tommorow. BTW I've looked at your r before if it was down in cali, I would def be interested......move downhere
my 98 R has 120K miles. but i was lucky and it was a one owner who hardly ragged on it. compression was damn good and it runs strong. and i got it for much cheaper than what this guy is looking for.
talk him down. like... $9K
talk him down. like... $9K
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by baonest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my 98 R has 120K miles.
talk him down. like... $9K</TD></TR></TABLE>
how many miles do you have now?
talk him down. like... $9K</TD></TR></TABLE>
how many miles do you have now?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by russianbigmac »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you guys know if a rebuild would solve all potential engine problems and how much they run if done at a independent shop?</TD></TR></TABLE>
a rebuild would only solve some engine problems. you still have to consider the following:
body (rust, damages, etc...)
electrical stuff (real b!tch unless you know what you're doing)
suspension (lots of mileage if its stock suspension)
interior (clean? all faded?)
I'm sure I missed stuff. You just gotta be careful when looking over the WHOLE car.
a rebuild would only solve some engine problems. you still have to consider the following:
body (rust, damages, etc...)
electrical stuff (real b!tch unless you know what you're doing)
suspension (lots of mileage if its stock suspension)
interior (clean? all faded?)
I'm sure I missed stuff. You just gotta be careful when looking over the WHOLE car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nightrider »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
how many miles do you have now? </TD></TR></TABLE>
well i bought it on Nov 10 (like 2 months ago) it had about 119,800K miles.
now it has like 120,500K miles
how many miles do you have now? </TD></TR></TABLE>well i bought it on Nov 10 (like 2 months ago) it had about 119,800K miles.
now it has like 120,500K miles
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by russianbigmac »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Also I was wondering how much more insurance on a ITR is compared to a Gsr?
Any advice or info on price and what to check for would be great.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
either way u win.
my friend has a gsr, i love riding in it
btw, del sol seats in a gsr is the BEST
Also I was wondering how much more insurance on a ITR is compared to a Gsr?
Any advice or info on price and what to check for would be great.
</TD></TR></TABLE>either way u win.
my friend has a gsr, i love riding in it
btw, del sol seats in a gsr is the BEST
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by russianbigmac »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well even at 10k, its a lot of money for a 150k mile car but i think ill go see it tommorow. BTW I've looked at your r before if it was down in cali, I would def be interested......move downhere </TD></TR></TABLE>
acutally sorry i live in florida.... you must have been looking at the wrong R bud.
acutally sorry i live in florida.... you must have been looking at the wrong R bud.
Hmmmmm. To give you another exaple: I purchased my 97' for 9K and it had 72,000 miles on it. Now granted that was a good deal however, the original front lip was stolen, the rear spoiler was stolen, the front bumper had damage, the driver side door was damaged beyond repair, the driver side rear quarter panel was damaged and the rear bumper was damaged.
Each car is going to have it's differences. It's up to you to find these differences and exploit them to your bennefit. The best thing you can do if your concerned about it, is to take the car to a professional mechanic, pay him $150.00 or whatever it is he's going to charge you to give that car a good once over, and a decent opinion on what it's worth (private party value).
You already have an advantage that, this guy needs to sell ASAP, and he knows he has a high mile car which makes it difficult to sell regardless if it's a collector or not. It is impossible and idiotic to ask a premium price on a car that is not in premium condition.
Here is what I would do on this potential sale: I would take that 10K and get it all in spendable money, take out a grand split it up and put $500.00 in your left pocket and $500.00 in your back pocket. Take the 9 grand and put that in your right pocket. Walk up to that guy and flash the 9 grand. Let him count it. Let him physically touch it. You would be amazed at how quickly this guy would be singing a different tune.
If he doesn't budge, whip out the wad of $500.00 out of your back pocket. Say something like "This is all I have. $9,500.00 etc. etc." If he doesn't budge and you feel it's worth it, whip out the last $500.00. Tell him you will be unable to pay your rent or something dramatic like that. If he doesn't budge walk away and let some other sap pay too much for a high mile car.
Your insurance: We do not know your driving record or the average rates for your zip code. It is best that you call your insurance company and have them quote you. If your under 25 expect it to be high.
Aloha,
Brandon
Each car is going to have it's differences. It's up to you to find these differences and exploit them to your bennefit. The best thing you can do if your concerned about it, is to take the car to a professional mechanic, pay him $150.00 or whatever it is he's going to charge you to give that car a good once over, and a decent opinion on what it's worth (private party value).
You already have an advantage that, this guy needs to sell ASAP, and he knows he has a high mile car which makes it difficult to sell regardless if it's a collector or not. It is impossible and idiotic to ask a premium price on a car that is not in premium condition.
Here is what I would do on this potential sale: I would take that 10K and get it all in spendable money, take out a grand split it up and put $500.00 in your left pocket and $500.00 in your back pocket. Take the 9 grand and put that in your right pocket. Walk up to that guy and flash the 9 grand. Let him count it. Let him physically touch it. You would be amazed at how quickly this guy would be singing a different tune.
If he doesn't budge, whip out the wad of $500.00 out of your back pocket. Say something like "This is all I have. $9,500.00 etc. etc." If he doesn't budge and you feel it's worth it, whip out the last $500.00. Tell him you will be unable to pay your rent or something dramatic like that. If he doesn't budge walk away and let some other sap pay too much for a high mile car.
Your insurance: We do not know your driving record or the average rates for your zip code. It is best that you call your insurance company and have them quote you. If your under 25 expect it to be high.
Aloha,
Brandon
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 3,672
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From: With my POS D15B2, Whereever whenever, United States
brando, i was in talks to buy that r that you bought with len, however, i was not mobile since I had work and school, which is why i couldn't purchase it since you flew from seatle. however, the deal that you got was great because you got a new motor and tranny, which is far beyond better than what these cars above with high mileage DO NOT have.
Brando's tip of splitting the money does work, i done this when buying a car for my brother, guy was looking 4400, i had 3000 in my back pocket, offered it to him, he didnt budge, i pulled out a further 500 and drove off in the car...the smell of hard cash is hard to resist for someone selling a car with such high mileage.
As for buying that particular ITR, bring someone along that knows their cars/engines inside and out and give the car a thorough going over from top to bottom, pull back carpets, boot linings etc take the car for a test drive and drive it up to the redline (get who ever goes along with you to drive behind to watch for blue smoke at high revs) Look for a service record, try and find a rough patch of road and coast over it in nuetral listening for bushings/suspension rattles (which it will have if its still on original suspension/bushes) Find as many little things as you can to drop the price with the seller, oil leaks, rust (if there is any) worn tires, rattles, dents in the body work, signs of repair (especially in the front and rear), faulty electrics, play in the steering...just general things you would look out for when buying any car
As for buying that particular ITR, bring someone along that knows their cars/engines inside and out and give the car a thorough going over from top to bottom, pull back carpets, boot linings etc take the car for a test drive and drive it up to the redline (get who ever goes along with you to drive behind to watch for blue smoke at high revs) Look for a service record, try and find a rough patch of road and coast over it in nuetral listening for bushings/suspension rattles (which it will have if its still on original suspension/bushes) Find as many little things as you can to drop the price with the seller, oil leaks, rust (if there is any) worn tires, rattles, dents in the body work, signs of repair (especially in the front and rear), faulty electrics, play in the steering...just general things you would look out for when buying any car
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Haleiwa-Brando »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmmmmm. To give you another exaple: I purchased my 97' for 9K and it had 72,000 miles on it. Now granted that was a good deal however, the original front lip was stolen, the rear spoiler was stolen, the front bumper had damage, the driver side door was damaged beyond repair, the driver side rear quarter panel was damaged and the rear bumper was damaged.
Each car is going to have it's differences. It's up to you to find these differences and exploit them to your bennefit. The best thing you can do if your concerned about it, is to take the car to a professional mechanic, pay him $150.00 or whatever it is he's going to charge you to give that car a good once over, and a decent opinion on what it's worth (private party value).
You already have an advantage that, this guy needs to sell ASAP, and he knows he has a high mile car which makes it difficult to sell regardless if it's a collector or not. It is impossible and idiotic to ask a premium price on a car that is not in premium condition.
Here is what I would do on this potential sale: I would take that 10K and get it all in spendable money, take out a grand split it up and put $500.00 in your left pocket and $500.00 in your back pocket. Take the 9 grand and put that in your right pocket. Walk up to that guy and flash the 9 grand. Let him count it. Let him physically touch it. You would be amazed at how quickly this guy would be singing a different tune.
If he doesn't budge, whip out the wad of $500.00 out of your back pocket. Say something like "This is all I have. $9,500.00 etc. etc." If he doesn't budge and you feel it's worth it, whip out the last $500.00. Tell him you will be unable to pay your rent or something dramatic like that. If he doesn't budge walk away and let some other sap pay too much for a high mile car.
Your insurance: We do not know your driving record or the average rates for your zip code. It is best that you call your insurance company and have them quote you. If your under 25 expect it to be high.
Aloha,
Brandon</TD></TR></TABLE>
"Money talks and bullshit walks"
Each car is going to have it's differences. It's up to you to find these differences and exploit them to your bennefit. The best thing you can do if your concerned about it, is to take the car to a professional mechanic, pay him $150.00 or whatever it is he's going to charge you to give that car a good once over, and a decent opinion on what it's worth (private party value).
You already have an advantage that, this guy needs to sell ASAP, and he knows he has a high mile car which makes it difficult to sell regardless if it's a collector or not. It is impossible and idiotic to ask a premium price on a car that is not in premium condition.
Here is what I would do on this potential sale: I would take that 10K and get it all in spendable money, take out a grand split it up and put $500.00 in your left pocket and $500.00 in your back pocket. Take the 9 grand and put that in your right pocket. Walk up to that guy and flash the 9 grand. Let him count it. Let him physically touch it. You would be amazed at how quickly this guy would be singing a different tune.
If he doesn't budge, whip out the wad of $500.00 out of your back pocket. Say something like "This is all I have. $9,500.00 etc. etc." If he doesn't budge and you feel it's worth it, whip out the last $500.00. Tell him you will be unable to pay your rent or something dramatic like that. If he doesn't budge walk away and let some other sap pay too much for a high mile car.
Your insurance: We do not know your driving record or the average rates for your zip code. It is best that you call your insurance company and have them quote you. If your under 25 expect it to be high.
Aloha,
Brandon</TD></TR></TABLE>
"Money talks and bullshit walks"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MugenHonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">brando, i was in talks to buy that R that you bought with len. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for not buying!
Aloha,
Brandon
Thanks for not buying!

Aloha,
Brandon
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Honda_RN
Acura Integra Type-R
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Jun 1, 2003 09:27 PM




*shakes head*
