what's the best camber kit?
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I'm gonna be looking for a camber kit soon and I needed to get a review of the different kits out there. I searched but nothing about what's good and not....
All it is is a plate that can move the top of the strut in or out. There isn't a lot of difference in them other than color and fitment. Skunk2, apexi, Ground control are all examples of quality ones. But anything that can do the job is going to work.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Isoldmyhonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All it is is a plate that can move the top of the strut in or out. There isn't a lot of difference in them other than color and fitment. Skunk2, apexi, Ground control are all examples of quality ones. But anything that can do the job is going to work.</TD></TR></TABLE> But what about as far as quality. I know you get what you pay for but i've seen where the Skunk2's broke at the adjustment point.
Which vehicle is this for? You definitely want to stick with a name brand camber kit. The camber kit is a integral component of your suspension and you don't want a cheap item in there that will fail. Ingalls and SPC are the best. Skunk2 and OMNI are also great kits. PM me with your info and I will help you out. check us out at: http://www.camberkit.com
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if the guy wants a camber kit, let him get a camber kit.
im not going to pound my head because the world is ignorant.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What's wrong with a camber kit?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tru dat. A fool and his money.......</TD></TR></TABLE>
A dumbass and his worthless comments
thanks for nothing buddy
im not going to pound my head because the world is ignorant.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What's wrong with a camber kit?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tru dat. A fool and his money.......</TD></TR></TABLE>
A dumbass and his worthless comments
thanks for nothing buddy
nothings wrong with camber kits. why do you need em tho? have you even had your car aligned and measured so that you know your camber is out of desired range?
its not to stop you from buying whatever you want with your money, or asking around to make a more informed decision.
its not to stop you from buying whatever you want with your money, or asking around to make a more informed decision.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Split Image Prez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Well I know my car has neg. camber cause I can definatly see it and i've had 4 lowered hondas already and i've seen what it does to the tires.... So how is in not always necessary? maybe if the car is only lowered an inch or so right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
well, from my own experience, and those who i know who are well experienced with tires, street and race, i can tell you that it is the change in toe that affects tire wear detrimentally, not so much camber.
in your past 4 lowered hondas, did you ever get an alignment? ive run up to negative 2.5 degrees of camber, and found no adverse tire wear. i was sponsored by an alignment shop so i always got my alignments done and free, plus i could check them at the track.
ive had friends who lowered their cars, chewed up their tires in the time it took them to finally get to an alignment shop and found their toe way out of spec. once they fixed the toe, put new tires on, no adverse tire wear, without changing anything else, like ride height or camber kits.
quite frankly, the increased negative camber you get from lowering a car is beneficial to handling. i wouldnt want to remove that. in fact id want more negative camber.
the only other reason to get a camber kit is to correct an imbalance between sides.
its not that i care to pick a fight to disagree over camber kits anytime anyone asks about them. i really dont care if you choose to spend your money on a camber kit over an alignment and end up with your car set up properly.
well, from my own experience, and those who i know who are well experienced with tires, street and race, i can tell you that it is the change in toe that affects tire wear detrimentally, not so much camber.
in your past 4 lowered hondas, did you ever get an alignment? ive run up to negative 2.5 degrees of camber, and found no adverse tire wear. i was sponsored by an alignment shop so i always got my alignments done and free, plus i could check them at the track.
ive had friends who lowered their cars, chewed up their tires in the time it took them to finally get to an alignment shop and found their toe way out of spec. once they fixed the toe, put new tires on, no adverse tire wear, without changing anything else, like ride height or camber kits.
quite frankly, the increased negative camber you get from lowering a car is beneficial to handling. i wouldnt want to remove that. in fact id want more negative camber.
the only other reason to get a camber kit is to correct an imbalance between sides.
its not that i care to pick a fight to disagree over camber kits anytime anyone asks about them. i really dont care if you choose to spend your money on a camber kit over an alignment and end up with your car set up properly.
ive never needed to replace any. although my current 200k+ mile beater sounds like the whole front end could be replaced...
i guess i never mentioned i never even bought a camber kit of any form.
(and ive never had any tire wear issues, except on the outside of my race tires, but thats from cornering hard, i could have used more neg camber...)
why?
i guess i never mentioned i never even bought a camber kit of any form.
(and ive never had any tire wear issues, except on the outside of my race tires, but thats from cornering hard, i could have used more neg camber...)
why?
Listen, you made the right choice getting a camber kit. What this guy is telling you is not true for everybody. It's true for him because he uses those tires for racing or drives on them hard, so he wears the outside edges and it balances out. Or else he goes through tires so quickly he doesn't notice accelerated camber wear. Also, expensive racing tires are specially designed to work better with negative camber, but the mid and low price range tires that we po folks daily drive on are not.
I agree that toe wear is much more quick and devastating to tires. But camber wear is very real. I have gone through sets of tires to prove it. I have alignment printouts to prove that my toe is correct. Tires shouldn't wear out in six months, with the inside edge worn down to the belt and the outside edge not yet reaching the wear bars. This is caused by excessive negative camber. Excessiving negative camber becomes a problem at drops of 1.3 inches or more.
I have now corrected my camber to -1.2 degrees front, -1 rear, for daily driving and the tires are wearing evenly. This is right at the limit of factory spec. There is no reason to zero out the camber.
If you lower the car 1.3 inches or more, and do not have a camber kit, you are most likely a damn ricer. If you're serious about racing, you have a camber kit. If you daily drive exclusively and care whether you waste tires, you have a camber kit. This guy doesn't have one because he lives in that segment of reality with just the right tires and driving style that he doesn't experience camber wear. When he lowered his car, in his segment of reality, the camber stayed even on both sides. I don't mean any offense to this guy, I just wish I could live in that better more convenient segment of reality. But I don't, and I bet you wont either and I hate to see you waste your tires or feel stupid for making the right decision in correcting your camber.
I agree that toe wear is much more quick and devastating to tires. But camber wear is very real. I have gone through sets of tires to prove it. I have alignment printouts to prove that my toe is correct. Tires shouldn't wear out in six months, with the inside edge worn down to the belt and the outside edge not yet reaching the wear bars. This is caused by excessive negative camber. Excessiving negative camber becomes a problem at drops of 1.3 inches or more.
I have now corrected my camber to -1.2 degrees front, -1 rear, for daily driving and the tires are wearing evenly. This is right at the limit of factory spec. There is no reason to zero out the camber.
If you lower the car 1.3 inches or more, and do not have a camber kit, you are most likely a damn ricer. If you're serious about racing, you have a camber kit. If you daily drive exclusively and care whether you waste tires, you have a camber kit. This guy doesn't have one because he lives in that segment of reality with just the right tires and driving style that he doesn't experience camber wear. When he lowered his car, in his segment of reality, the camber stayed even on both sides. I don't mean any offense to this guy, I just wish I could live in that better more convenient segment of reality. But I don't, and I bet you wont either and I hate to see you waste your tires or feel stupid for making the right decision in correcting your camber.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by shaundrake »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Or else he goes through tires so quickly he doesn't notice accelerated camber wear. </TD></TR></TABLE>
i still have a good amount of tread on my azenis i bought in 2001. (no camber wear) shrug.
i also think i had about .25 degree difference L/R, didnt notice anything. wasnt worth worrying about.
i still have a good amount of tread on my azenis i bought in 2001. (no camber wear) shrug.
i also think i had about .25 degree difference L/R, didnt notice anything. wasnt worth worrying about.
By "notice anything", do you mean you recorded your tire temps on a track day and noticed you wouldn't get any more grip by adjusting the camber? Or do you mean "notice anything" as in it still takes the same amount of time to get to Food For Less and back?
What were your camber readings again? What make model?
Sorry I'm in a defensive mood because earlier people were throwing around "ignorant" and "waste your money" when talking about camber correction.
What were your camber readings again? What make model?
Sorry I'm in a defensive mood because earlier people were throwing around "ignorant" and "waste your money" when talking about camber correction.
This thread got a little confusing pretty quickly.
On the typical double wishbone Honda, you will increase negative camber when you lower the car.
Radical negative camber <u>can</u> affect tyre wear, but you're talking about radical camber to affect wear, definitely over 3 degrees.
The normal negative camber that is introduced by lowering a car will not go so negative that it will cause tyre wear.
The posters who are saying that most "camber wear" is caused by toe are correct, because most lowering will not cause enough camber to affect wear.
When you lower your car, you need to get an alignment even if the camber's not adjustable. If you can get your toe where you want it, even if your camber is negative 2.5 degrees, your car will track properly (provided the shop can do thrust angle properly) and you will not have excessive tyre wear.
Most of my friends get camber kits on the front of their Hondas because they need <u>more</u> negative camber, not less.
On the typical double wishbone Honda, you will increase negative camber when you lower the car.
Radical negative camber <u>can</u> affect tyre wear, but you're talking about radical camber to affect wear, definitely over 3 degrees.
The normal negative camber that is introduced by lowering a car will not go so negative that it will cause tyre wear.
The posters who are saying that most "camber wear" is caused by toe are correct, because most lowering will not cause enough camber to affect wear.
When you lower your car, you need to get an alignment even if the camber's not adjustable. If you can get your toe where you want it, even if your camber is negative 2.5 degrees, your car will track properly (provided the shop can do thrust angle properly) and you will not have excessive tyre wear.
Most of my friends get camber kits on the front of their Hondas because they need <u>more</u> negative camber, not less.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Split Image Prez »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A dumbass and his worthless comments
thanks for nothing buddy
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Not my fault you want to believe marketing hype and interweb misinformation bandwagon instead of listening to people with real world experience.
Thanks for the insult, though. Jackass.
thanks for nothing buddy
</TD></TR></TABLE>Not my fault you want to believe marketing hype and interweb misinformation bandwagon instead of listening to people with real world experience.
Thanks for the insult, though. Jackass.
Actually, on street/touring tires you'll experience camber wear to the point that the tires are wasted within 6 months with camber less than -1.5 degrees, not -3. But this varies by brand of tire of course. For instance: the Azenis don't seem to suffer much from camber wear, while the low end cheap Kumho 711's definately do. My point: there is no hard and fast rule on camber kits, most need them, some don't, but I can't see anything bad about them being; 1. they're beneficial/necessary for serious racing and 2. they save street/touring class tires when used on lowered daily drivers.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .BJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Not my fault I like little boys and you want to believe marketing hype and interweb misinformation bandwagon instead of listening to people with real world experience.
Thanks for the insult, though. Jackass.</TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1104813
Obviously i'm here to get some information about what's good and what's not. If I knew everything then I wouldn't be here asking questions. Sucka!
So anyway, for daily driving when is a camber kit needed if at all thanks
shane
Modified by Split Image Prez at 9:13 PM 1/11/2005
Not my fault I like little boys and you want to believe marketing hype and interweb misinformation bandwagon instead of listening to people with real world experience.
Thanks for the insult, though. Jackass.</TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1104813
Obviously i'm here to get some information about what's good and what's not. If I knew everything then I wouldn't be here asking questions. Sucka!
So anyway, for daily driving when is a camber kit needed if at all thanks
shane
Modified by Split Image Prez at 9:13 PM 1/11/2005
to answer, or give my opinion, on what is the "better" camber kit, at least between skunk2 and omnipower, i would say buy skunk2's.
"but theyre the same, omniman steve, made those for skunk2, and now makes them for omnipower." yes and no.
apparently, skunk2 has changed their design. it seems it helps solve two very big problems that have lead them to a questionable reputation of design quality.
here are the original skunk2/omni camber arms.

up close. thanks kteller....

problems that have occured are the bolts gets loose, or cannot be torqued well enough or the thin metal gets warped and bent, leading to the position slipping. also, ive heard complaints that they are difficult to adjust since the nuts are up top, and theres not much room above the a arms in the fender to stick a proper allen key up there.
now, heres the NEW skunk2 design, apparently. THANKS TO WES V for showing them to us today at the "ef rained-out-meet". (theyre shown next to a set of EF arms, i wont say more than the obvious...)


you can see, they added a new upper plate to help completely sandwich the slot. this is a MUCH beefier design. apart from adding serrations, i dont tihnk you could build it stronger. (plus they gussetted the bottom side, perhaps unnecessary, but doesnt hurt) also, now you can adjust the bolts from UNDERNEATH the arm, where theres room. i say for the FIRST TIME EVER, BRAVO Skunk2! (im known to dog anything suspension related from skunk2. see, im a fair guy, i give credit when credit is due)
omnipower compared to skunk2? id go skunk2!
however, it appears their website does not reflect the new design. but i dont think wes got any freak prototype not yet available, so contact your skunk2 dealer.
btw, i reiterate, ive not ever really used any camber kits, skunk2, omni, ingalls, spc or whatever. this is just my observations.
Modified by Tyson at 2:03 AM 1/9/2005
"but theyre the same, omniman steve, made those for skunk2, and now makes them for omnipower." yes and no.
apparently, skunk2 has changed their design. it seems it helps solve two very big problems that have lead them to a questionable reputation of design quality.
here are the original skunk2/omni camber arms.
up close. thanks kteller....

problems that have occured are the bolts gets loose, or cannot be torqued well enough or the thin metal gets warped and bent, leading to the position slipping. also, ive heard complaints that they are difficult to adjust since the nuts are up top, and theres not much room above the a arms in the fender to stick a proper allen key up there.
now, heres the NEW skunk2 design, apparently. THANKS TO WES V for showing them to us today at the "ef rained-out-meet". (theyre shown next to a set of EF arms, i wont say more than the obvious...)


you can see, they added a new upper plate to help completely sandwich the slot. this is a MUCH beefier design. apart from adding serrations, i dont tihnk you could build it stronger. (plus they gussetted the bottom side, perhaps unnecessary, but doesnt hurt) also, now you can adjust the bolts from UNDERNEATH the arm, where theres room. i say for the FIRST TIME EVER, BRAVO Skunk2! (im known to dog anything suspension related from skunk2. see, im a fair guy, i give credit when credit is due)
omnipower compared to skunk2? id go skunk2!
however, it appears their website does not reflect the new design. but i dont think wes got any freak prototype not yet available, so contact your skunk2 dealer.
btw, i reiterate, ive not ever really used any camber kits, skunk2, omni, ingalls, spc or whatever. this is just my observations.
Modified by Tyson at 2:03 AM 1/9/2005
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">to answer, or give my opinion, on what is the "better" camber kit, at least between skunk2 and omnipower, i would say buy skunk2's.
"but theyre the same, omniman steve, made those for skunk2, and now makes them for omnipower." yes and no.
apparently, skunk2 has changed their design. it seems it helps solve two very big problems that have lead them to a questionable reputation of design quality.
here are the original skunk2/omni camber arms.

problems that have occured are the bolts gets loose, or cannot be torqued well enough or the thin metal gets warped and bent, leading to the position slipping. also, ive heard complaints that they are difficult to adjust since the nuts are up top, and theres not much room above the a arms in the fender to stick a proper allen key up there.
now, heres the NEW skunk2 design, apparently. THANKS TO WES V for showing them to us today at the "ef rained-out-meet". (theyre shown next to a set of EF arms, i wont say more than the obvious...)


you can see, they added a new upper plate to help completely sandwich the slot. this is a MUCH beefier design. apart from adding serrations, i dont tihnk you could build it stronger. (plus they gussetted the bottom side, perhaps unnecessary, but doesnt hurt) also, now you can adjust the bolts from UNDERNEATH the arm, where theres room. i say for the FIRST TIME EVER, BRAVO Skunk2! (im known to dog anything suspension related from skunk2. see, im a fair guy, i give credit when credit is due)
omnipower compared to skunk2? id go skunk2!
however, it appears their website does not reflect the new design. but i dont think wes got any freak prototype not yet available, so contact your skunk2 dealer.
btw, i reiterate, ive not ever really used any camber kits, skunk2, omni, ingalls, spc or whatever. this is just my observations.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks a lot tyson you've helped out a lot... much appreciated
"but theyre the same, omniman steve, made those for skunk2, and now makes them for omnipower." yes and no.
apparently, skunk2 has changed their design. it seems it helps solve two very big problems that have lead them to a questionable reputation of design quality.
here are the original skunk2/omni camber arms.
problems that have occured are the bolts gets loose, or cannot be torqued well enough or the thin metal gets warped and bent, leading to the position slipping. also, ive heard complaints that they are difficult to adjust since the nuts are up top, and theres not much room above the a arms in the fender to stick a proper allen key up there.
now, heres the NEW skunk2 design, apparently. THANKS TO WES V for showing them to us today at the "ef rained-out-meet". (theyre shown next to a set of EF arms, i wont say more than the obvious...)


you can see, they added a new upper plate to help completely sandwich the slot. this is a MUCH beefier design. apart from adding serrations, i dont tihnk you could build it stronger. (plus they gussetted the bottom side, perhaps unnecessary, but doesnt hurt) also, now you can adjust the bolts from UNDERNEATH the arm, where theres room. i say for the FIRST TIME EVER, BRAVO Skunk2! (im known to dog anything suspension related from skunk2. see, im a fair guy, i give credit when credit is due)
omnipower compared to skunk2? id go skunk2!
however, it appears their website does not reflect the new design. but i dont think wes got any freak prototype not yet available, so contact your skunk2 dealer.
btw, i reiterate, ive not ever really used any camber kits, skunk2, omni, ingalls, spc or whatever. this is just my observations.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks a lot tyson you've helped out a lot... much appreciated



