Miller 250dx or Lincoln PT275?????
Im going to pick one of these up at a local retail store, the miller is going for 3500 and the lincoln is going for 3450 plus a free newb lesson from the lincoln rep if i buy the Lincoln. What do you guys think??? He said the diference between the two is like a ford pickup compared to a chevy pick up, its all preference. I cant decide so i need u guys to help thanks
I can't believe it!!! They list both machines at the same duty cycle on the spec sheet!! http://content.lincolnelectric...c.pdf
They say this about the Miller: "Cannot ramp down to as low of an amperage when crater fill is critical."
Well, I don't think you're going to need to "ramp down" below 5 amps. To put this into perspective, I used to frequently weld .006" stainless. I would weld it at 4 amps, and had to pulse it to keep it cool enough to not burn it away. I don't think you will be welding anything near .006" thick.
The integrated cooler option is nice on the Miller, as the machine just sits on top of it if I'm not mistaken. It also has built in cable hangers on each side, and a drawer at the very top of the panel for storage of tungsten and other small stuff. The lincoln machine has storage, but it's in a panel on the top of the machine. Therefore, you can't set stuff on the machine, and if it's under a table, it's not going to be very useful.
I don't like the way Lincoln puts the torch connectors on the side of the machine. I prefer them on the front.
Lincoln boasts: "Separate output studs for stick and TIG keep both stick electrode holder and TIG torch connected at the same time— eliminates set-up changeover when switching processes."
Yeah, this is stupid to claim. All this means is that you hook these up in 2 different places. On a machine that doesn't have two, you just hook them both up to the same place...and you still don't have "set-up changeover" time spent. So many things these companies claim are just stupid things that are just meant to make it sound good to a person that doesn't really know much about welding machines. ALthough I'm a Miller fan (only since I actually bought a Lincoln)....Miller does the same stuff sometimes.
Don't buy into each maker's claims of a "smooth arc" as they both will weld fine.
There's a reason these are the top 2 sellers of welding machines to industry.
I really can't nitpick much about these machines, as based on stats, they're very close. The only significant difference I see is that the Lincoln will put out more power on the top end....but I doubt you will be needing this.
If it were me, I'd have to go with the Miller. Miller has done me well on the job and at home for about 18 years now. I've had good performance, service, and everything else from Miller. I have had a few more problems with Lincolns over the years, but had really crappy service out of the dealers when I needed it.
Personally, I think that many dealers are biased. They will first and foremost sell you whatever they can get you to buy. If you go in as a diehard Lincoln fan, they know better than to talk trash on them....and the same with Miller machines. However, I know a lot of guys that work at these companies and when you really get into their feelings, all the ones I know prefer Miller. If it comes down to a price issue, just take the Lincoln price to another place that sells Miller. Tell them that you're a Lincoln fan, but have been talked into trying a Miller....but will do so only if they match that price.
Also, check prices online and on ebay. You may be able to buy out of state and avoid a big tax charge...and many places on ebay will ship free.
I really think that if you shop around, you can find the Miller machines at the same prices the Lincolns sell for, or at least close to it...but there is a price you pay for getting the best.
Honestly, I bought the Lincoln I had because it was cheaper than the Miller...and I regreted it ever since.
They say this about the Miller: "Cannot ramp down to as low of an amperage when crater fill is critical."
Well, I don't think you're going to need to "ramp down" below 5 amps. To put this into perspective, I used to frequently weld .006" stainless. I would weld it at 4 amps, and had to pulse it to keep it cool enough to not burn it away. I don't think you will be welding anything near .006" thick.
The integrated cooler option is nice on the Miller, as the machine just sits on top of it if I'm not mistaken. It also has built in cable hangers on each side, and a drawer at the very top of the panel for storage of tungsten and other small stuff. The lincoln machine has storage, but it's in a panel on the top of the machine. Therefore, you can't set stuff on the machine, and if it's under a table, it's not going to be very useful.
I don't like the way Lincoln puts the torch connectors on the side of the machine. I prefer them on the front.
Lincoln boasts: "Separate output studs for stick and TIG keep both stick electrode holder and TIG torch connected at the same time— eliminates set-up changeover when switching processes."
Yeah, this is stupid to claim. All this means is that you hook these up in 2 different places. On a machine that doesn't have two, you just hook them both up to the same place...and you still don't have "set-up changeover" time spent. So many things these companies claim are just stupid things that are just meant to make it sound good to a person that doesn't really know much about welding machines. ALthough I'm a Miller fan (only since I actually bought a Lincoln)....Miller does the same stuff sometimes.
Don't buy into each maker's claims of a "smooth arc" as they both will weld fine.
There's a reason these are the top 2 sellers of welding machines to industry.
I really can't nitpick much about these machines, as based on stats, they're very close. The only significant difference I see is that the Lincoln will put out more power on the top end....but I doubt you will be needing this.
If it were me, I'd have to go with the Miller. Miller has done me well on the job and at home for about 18 years now. I've had good performance, service, and everything else from Miller. I have had a few more problems with Lincolns over the years, but had really crappy service out of the dealers when I needed it.
Personally, I think that many dealers are biased. They will first and foremost sell you whatever they can get you to buy. If you go in as a diehard Lincoln fan, they know better than to talk trash on them....and the same with Miller machines. However, I know a lot of guys that work at these companies and when you really get into their feelings, all the ones I know prefer Miller. If it comes down to a price issue, just take the Lincoln price to another place that sells Miller. Tell them that you're a Lincoln fan, but have been talked into trying a Miller....but will do so only if they match that price.
Also, check prices online and on ebay. You may be able to buy out of state and avoid a big tax charge...and many places on ebay will ship free.
I really think that if you shop around, you can find the Miller machines at the same prices the Lincolns sell for, or at least close to it...but there is a price you pay for getting the best.
Honestly, I bought the Lincoln I had because it was cheaper than the Miller...and I regreted it ever since.
thanks for your help engloid, Miller it is!!! never heard a bad thing about a miller machine but i rarely hear bad things about the lincoln, I was a little skeptical about him switching me to the lincoln, he said the benifit was that i would be able to get a hands on training through his lincoln rep and save 50 dollars. for me the 2 hour training is not worth being stuck with a product i might regret. Maybe he makes a little more out of lincoln??? Who knows,but so u have any tips on how to work this with stainless steel?? the same stuff they use for manifolds?? i know I am going to have to practice practice practice, but i would like to get good advice before i begin a bad habit. lil what kind of tip would i want to use and what amperage should i be at?? thanks in advance
Use 2% (ret tip) tungsten and keep it sharp. A general rule for tungsten sharpening: Grind it back so that the taper is STRAIGHT and comes back 2-2.5 times the diameter of the tungsten. So, if you have 1/8" tungsten, take .125" X 2.5 and you get 5/16"...that's how far back it should taper.
Sharp tungsten helps to focus heat where you want it, so it's very important to keep it sharp. Beginners like to put off sharpening it till it's so bad it takes them 5 minutes to get it sharp again (meanwhile, they're fighting the weld puddle due to dull tungsten)...rather than sharpen more often...when it only take a few seconds..
Heat: How ever much heat it takes to melt it smoothly
I learned to weld on a machine that had no numbers on it. I just knew more heat or less...and I still weld that way.
Sharp tungsten helps to focus heat where you want it, so it's very important to keep it sharp. Beginners like to put off sharpening it till it's so bad it takes them 5 minutes to get it sharp again (meanwhile, they're fighting the weld puddle due to dull tungsten)...rather than sharpen more often...when it only take a few seconds..
Heat: How ever much heat it takes to melt it smoothly

I learned to weld on a machine that had no numbers on it. I just knew more heat or less...and I still weld that way.
Do you have a picture of what a sharpen tip should look like?? and how far shoule u have he tip stick out??? sorry im a total newb at this. thanks again.oh yeh I also want to control the heat with my foot right??? kinda half throttle it or something???
No, I don't have any pics. If you use 3/32 tungsten, hold it up and draw a line with a marker, about 5/16" down from the end. Grind the tungsten so that the ground angle comes back all the way to that mark. Looking at the tungsten profile, you should not have a ground surface that is a curve. It should be straight, like a V.
well i picked up the welder today and man its the nicest thing i ever seen, comes with water cooled torch and all, still kinda learning how to tig, man its tough. what angles should hold the torch at?? and what amperage?? i had it at 150 amps welding mild steel about 1/8 inch thick i think its too much, what do u guys think?? thanks
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Which welding machine did you get? 90 amps should have been a good setting, but again its the pedal movement and watching the puddle form that will tell you what amps to set the machine at. Honestly you could set the machine to max out put and use the pedal to regulate the output. with either welder it should have come with a card that has reccommended settings for what type of metal and thickness your welding. also many machines come with a book with tips and helpful hints on what angle to hold the torch at. good luck and remember perfect practice makes perfect.
a good link with pics of torch angles: http://www.millerpowerclick.co....html
I agree with the post above about the heat setting. A guy used to tell me "go as hot as you can go fast." Granted, it's not a race so you don't want to go so fast that you're not in control. You have to have enough heat that you aren't waiting on the puddle to keep up with you, and enough heat that it melts smoothly...rather than cold and lumpy.
I agree with the post above about the heat setting. A guy used to tell me "go as hot as you can go fast." Granted, it's not a race so you don't want to go so fast that you're not in control. You have to have enough heat that you aren't waiting on the puddle to keep up with you, and enough heat that it melts smoothly...rather than cold and lumpy.
Wow, I can't believe Lincoln bashes the 250DX like that. Who is going to take that comparison seriously?
I think both machines are excellent. I do like the polarity switch on the Lincoln better, I have seen two broken ones on 250DX machines in 1 year. (These machines are used HEAVILY).
You'll love either machine.
edit : spelling
Modified by Agtronic at 12:14 AM 1/10/2005
I think both machines are excellent. I do like the polarity switch on the Lincoln better, I have seen two broken ones on 250DX machines in 1 year. (These machines are used HEAVILY).
You'll love either machine.
edit : spelling
Modified by Agtronic at 12:14 AM 1/10/2005
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