Where'd you mount it?
Where'd you get it?
What kind is it?
Does it work?

Thanks in Advance,
Scott

 

I run a 14-row Earls cooler, mounted just in front of the radiator. The system is plumbed with -10 fittings and braided lines as well as a remote filter mount. Increased the oil capacity from approximately 4 quarts to 6.5 quarts. The total cost for parts was less than $300 and I did the labor.

If goddamn photopoint.com was up I would link the pics.

 

I bought a 36-row tru-cool from Racer Parts Wholesale (they also carry mocal, which is top-of-the-line) for my Talon to replace the POS OEM water/air cooler. I got the largest one that would fit in the space I had, and fabricated a bracket to mount it below the bumper behind a vent in the front valence. I plumbed it in 1/2 in. no-crimp hose from http://www.hoseandfitting.com, which has been a pain in the ***. I think the hot oil is somehow degrading the rubber because it loses its grip on the fitting after a couple months.

If it is mounted solidly and free of vibration, and you use proper braided hose, just about any cooler should work for your application. If you get into making serious rpm or boost for extended periods of time then you need to think about ducting (or a fan) and routing.

The other question is whether you really need one, but that is easy enough to determine.

 

Under the radiator.

Came with the car (from the factory).

Mazda.

Yes.

Probably not what you were looking for, but there ya go.

On Hondas, the easiest place is probably in front of radiator or where the AC stuff used to be.

 

You might want to check your engine & oil temps before you do this. A CRX running out here has a oil cooler. It is installed in front of the radiator. It is plumbed to a remote oil filter. In early spring & late fall, they have to mask the radiator opening. The engine has a hard time coming up to & staying at temp. My experience is only with the 1.5 & 1.6l. These seem to run fine with the stock radiator. The only time I have seen them run hot, was because of other cooling problems (radiator full of stop leak pellets, bad head). This is even @ Thunderhill & Buttonwillow in summer (90-100 F).

 

This might help...
http://hybrid.honda-perf.org/tech/oilcooler/index.html

 

Don't buy the B&M kit!

 

give us a little more MistaBone... what went wrong?

 

I have the kit (bought for very cheap), and I will be changing out all of the rubber hoses with SS lines, just need to find a place to put the remote oil filter, without having to relocate the battery (to do it right, I'll be spending way too much for my current budget).
Austin

 

Is there anything wrong with teh B&M kit...

 

Thanks for the replies.

As for "do I need one?" two answers...
1. I dunno, but I have a brand new race motor and I don't want to find out the hard way.
2. Tom Fowler thinks I need one, so I probably do (If Tom says "do it," just shut up and do it).

Off to Racerpartswholesale.com I go.

 

Before getting one I would try to find out some more information about the motor and how it runs in the car. Based on the echc rules it has to be stock internally, right? So you haven't significantly raised compression, which would be the largest source of increased heat in the motor. I assume the svwc guys are running one, and probably the grand-am guys too, but they make significantly more power. Easy enough to find out.

If you don't have access to a thermocouple and digital voltmeter, try hitting the oil filter with an optical pyrometer after a session (or on someone else's similarly prepped car) to get an idea of what your temps are.

The best thing to do would be to set up the circuit with a bypass and a thermostat so the cooler is only in use when needed, then you shouldn't ever have to worry about reaching or exceeding proper operating temp.

 

the filter adapter would not fully seat onto the block. Matter of fact there was a 1/8" gap between the adapter and gasket surface!

I ended up using Perma-Cool parts from Jegs. Way cheaper IMHO!

BTW forget the rubber lines! I ran mine on the street for almost a year. One time I happen to rev the engine with hood up to 5,000 rpm. Watching the rubber lines GROW was not a fun site! Use #10 SS lines instead.

BTW D series motors NEED a oil cooler! Just ask Todd Reid. I will run a oil cooler + Mobil 1 at any track event I attend.


[Modified by Mista Bone, 8:32 AM 1/10/2002]

 

If you put an oil cooler on a daily driver and live in cooler climates (or drive in the winter) then think about investing in a bypass valve that has a thermostat. I've not priced them, but they do exist. The only time the oil flows through the cooler is when it is hot oil. No point in colling something cold.

Scott

 

I was told NOT to use the oil cooler thermostat. Gives more problems than gains. Just block off the oil cooler with cardboard/plastic.

BTW I have the B&M thermothingy if you wish to play with one.

Just remember all 5.5 quarts will take longer to warm up when using a cooler.

 

http://www.absoluteradiator.com also has a nice collection of oil coolers and good prices.

 

Thanks for the heads up Mista Bone. I just know the by pass valves exist, didn't know that they didn't work well.

Scott

 

Do you think just reloacting the filter with a spin on adapter with the extra oil lines would have any cooling effect?

 

sure if you get those lines with the fins on them... and a big *** oil filter with a fins on it

 

Seriously......wouldn't the travel and length of the oil lines help reduce temperature slightly? Obviously not as effective as a cooler though.

Oil lines with cooling fins? Hmmmm.....that just may be the latest mAd TigHt go Phast part yet. If they come in custom colors (mad skills yellow for Karl), they'd sell like hotcakes.

 

Well of course the extra oil volume would give a higher heat capacity (probably not the right physical term) and extra total exposed surface would aid in radiated heat dissipation. Probably negligible benefit-to-effort ratio (I just made that up). If your gonna lay lines, might as well hook up a cooler. Doesn't absolutely need to be in the air dam either.

 

24 row Mocal cooler, Canton Mecca remote filter, -10AN steel lines. Temps dropped from ~280 at the track to ~180-210. On the street oil temp is 150-155 usually. Coolant never goes about 185 anymore . . . Even on the track.

Worth every penny . .






[Modified by jeff652, 9:46 AM 1/11/2002]

 

So adding all the piping and a 24 row Mocal did not effect oil pressure?

My common engineering sense (as long as we're making up words and phrases) tells me that adding that loop without making a modification to increase pressure would result in a pressure drop somewhere.

Yes?
No?

 

yeah lost 4 PSI at the return point on the block. Shimming the oil pump will easily resolve that though . . .

 

<< On the street oil temp is 150-155 usually. Coolant never goes about 185 anymore . . . Even on the track. > >

I'd be a little worried about running 150 degrees oil temp on the street. You need to get your oil temp up over 200 degrees in order to vaporize off the water and other volatile contaminants.

My other racecar, a Lotus Super Seven, has a Mocal oilcooler mounted up front. On cool track days, I tape up part or all of the cooler. I keep a careful eye on the oil temp gauge, and try to keep it between 200 and 230 degrees.

Just my thoughts...

Todd