Hello people i want to get a set of coilovers for my dc2 type r and i was wondering what would be a good brand to go for i dont really want to spend more than $800 for them. Also i was wondering what settings would be best to go for i was told 12kg at the front and 9kg at the rear what do you people think. i want stiff for track days and stuff is this setting good or would it be too hard. Also has anyone got omni power coilovers and how good are these?

 

Have you read this? : https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=766629

Or seen this? : http://www.socalitr.com/HTlinks

 

a little out of ur price range.. i'd go w/ Buddy Club Racing Spec $1200

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xxazn2nrxx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a little out of ur price range.. i'd go w/ Buddy Club Racing Spec $1200 </TD></TR></TABLE>
Omni Powers go for around $650-700, his price range is under $800. The Omni Power sports are rated at 12k front 10k rear. I don't actually own them, but the only bad thing I've heard is they're a bit rough for daily driving. So if you're planning on strictly tracking, that doesn't really matter, if not, you might wanna think about that.

 

OMNI-POWER

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaej8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OMNI-POWER </TD></TR></TABLE>

They are good for the track I love them but when it comes to potholes and road imperfections I'd rather take a hammer to my head....kaboom..kaboom kaboom...I feel so sorry for my car...pains me everytime I hit a bump on the road...

I don't drive a ITR but the OMNI-POWER is still to harsh even with the street setup....

I drive a civic 92 coupe..

Get a dual coilover setup type like the example below...

 

Koni Yellows + GC's.

Most proven setup for street and track duty

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Koni Yellows + GC's.

Most proven setup for street and track duty </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah cept good luck goin above a 500lb/in spring on koni yellow's.

I personally LOVE my TEIN FLEX but they are a BIT out of the price range.... by bout $650. I was going to get OMNIPOWER's or the Koni/GC package first to but I did some research and asked some people and they all kinda said you get what you pay for. The omni's are quality pieces for the price. The big question is what are you willing to tolerate?

If you have no gf and don't care at all, or she is a track **** then the omni's

If you want the best combo of street and track go with the FLEX

If you want all out track go with the RA's or BC race spec (from what I've heard RA a nice deal better). I was going to but was talked out of it for sake that I drive on THE moon... aka detroit roads.

Koni + GC = nice but no rate matching... still nice setup though.

Those are my two cents from my research.

 

So send out the Konis and get them setup for what ever rate springs you want to run... No biggie there.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bbasso &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So send out the Konis and get them setup for what ever rate springs you want to run... No biggie there.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It seems that someone such as one posting this doesn't exactly know what spring rate to run or what exactly he plans do with it. I don't think that getting koni's revalved would be the best choice.... btw how much more would that cost? The GC/Koni/(in this case H&R Race springs due to cost) is already at the limit of his costs if not beyond.

GC's = $299
Koni's = $86 x 4
H&R race springs = $200

which = $843 sooooo

 

i read some posts from the link and this guy asked this question that was never answered... i was hoping some one could answer this cuz i never thought about this before.


quote&gt;18K/900#)

What does this mean?

If one has very stiff springs, someone said the energy is transferred to the chassis, or oneself. I don't care about comfort, but will this energy cause damage to the chassis?
____________

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by whteteg8901 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

quote&gt;18K/900#)

What does this mean?

If one has very stiff springs, someone said the energy is transferred to the chassis, or oneself. I don't care about comfort, but will this energy cause damage to the chassis?
</TD></TR></TABLE>

18kg/cm of pressure which is = to 900 lb/in of pressure a common rear spring rate for Honda's on the Eibach ERS full race spring. Stock IIR = front 246 lb/in - rear 140 and stock GSR front 212 lb/in - rear 117 lb/in... so you can imagine what 900lb/in is like.... just don't drive it on the street or over pot holes

Well technically yes it does transfer energy to the body. That is why cars that have to stiff springs and struts actually bounce. The shock of the hard spring and strut to the chassis that is solid make the whole car bounce. Yes over time in theory... have I ever heard of it in any real world (including race car) situation no.... large downforce is MUCH worse.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by integratyper200 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello people i want to get a set of coilovers for my dc2 type r and i was wondering what would be a good brand to go for i dont really want to spend more than $800 for them. Also i was wondering what settings would be best to go for i was told 12kg at the front and 9kg at the rear what do you people think. i want stiff for track days and stuff is this setting good or would it be too hard. Also has anyone got omni power coilovers and how good are these?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have omni power, they are stiff and works great.

and Omni power designer omniman is a great guy, he goes really far to make his customers happy.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Koni + GC = nice but no rate matching... still nice setup though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Revalved Koni Yellows have some of the highest shock dyno results. On top of that, you can select ANY springrate you want if you use GC's. Basically you get full adjustability and your choice of springrates on some of the strongest shock valving for around $1,000. Dont forget that they are U.S. based so any problems or upgrades you want to perform will not take 3+ months to sort out.

IMHO comparing TEIN Flex to revalved Yellows is like comparing a 1994 Ford Festiva to a Ferrari 360. The Flex was not designed for any sort of track use.

I am not saying all the "JDM bling" systems are worthless, but the results speak, why do over 50% of the Honda Challenge cars run Koni + GC combo's? The valving often times lasts longer than the car.

I have never seen any shock dynos for the Omni's. I hear good things though.

If you really wanted to go hardcore, the Koni 3011's will rape, pillage and murder all other systems.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Revalved Koni Yellows have some of the highest shock dyno results. On top of that, you can select ANY springrate you want if you use GC's. Basically you get full adjustability and your choice of springrates on some of the strongest shock valving for around $1,000. Dont forget that they are U.S. based so any problems or upgrades you want to perform will not take 3+ months to sort out.

IMHO comparing TEIN Flex to revalved Yellows is like comparing a 1994 Ford Festiva to a Ferrari 360. The Flex was not designed for any sort of track use.

I am not saying all the "JDM bling" systems are worthless, but the results speak, why do over 50% of the Honda Challenge cars run Koni + GC combo's? The valving often times lasts longer than the car.

I have never seen any shock dynos for the Omni's. I hear good things though.

If you really wanted to go hardcore, the Koni 3011's will rape, pillage and murder all other systems. </TD></TR></TABLE>

OK read AGAIN. I'm pointing out what is best for best. I.E. I pointed out the COST of the revalved koni's and they are already stock beyond his budget (LEARN TO READ). As far as the TEIN comparison you are simply a moron. The FLEX is designed for the street/track cars in Japan since it is VERY hard to own more than one car. The RA is all out race. And Koni Yellow's are good but that comparo is retarded. Oh and I can select any spring rate I want as well with better shock-threaded spgings.

Oh and wanna talk bout cost Koni 3011's ???

I'm trying to give the man info and you should go do some research before you slam anything... dimwit

 

Really for only $800 there is nothing worthwhile. But spend $900 and get Koni Sports and Ground Control coilover sleeves and springs. If you want a good street car and might want to do HPDEs then get 400lb/in front springs and 500lb/in rears. All the other stuff out there is either lower priced and not worth it for the ITR (which comes with a really well dialed suspension stock) or is more expensive and not much better. Koni/GC is your best bang for the buck.

-alan

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00R101 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Really for only $800 there is nothing worthwhile. But spend $900 and get Koni Sports and Ground Control coilover sleeves and springs. If you want a good street car and might want to do HPDEs then get 400lb/in front springs and 500lb/in rears. All the other stuff out there is either lower priced and not worth it for the ITR (which comes with a really well dialed suspension stock) or is more expensive and not much better. Koni/GC is your best bang for the buck.

-alan</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree. My whole point was what you are saying in "Really for $800 nothing is worthwhile." For the track set up the koni/GC = and not to bad for the street. I was just saying that for the COST and the fact you are already spending that kind of money I would wait like I did. Then get either the FLEX, revalved Koni's, or RA's/BC spec R's depending on A: where you drive (bombed out Detroit) B: street use, daily driver, or track car and C: How serious are you as far as track racing.

For the record, 92TypeR, the FLEX is already valved to increase spring rates greatly without ever having to send in and revalve. So you can go accordingly and still drive the car without having to take the suspension off and send everything in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">18kg/cm of pressure which is = to 900 lb/in of pressure a common rear spring rate for Honda's on the Eibach ERS full race spring. Stock IIR = front 246 lb/in - rear 140 and stock GSR front 212 lb/in - rear 117 lb/in... so you can imagine what 900lb/in is like.... just don't drive it on the street or over pot holes

Well technically yes it does transfer energy to the body. That is why cars that have to stiff springs and struts actually bounce. The shock of the hard spring and strut to the chassis that is solid make the whole car bounce. Yes over time in theory... have I ever heard of it in any real world (including race car) situation no.... large downforce is MUCH worse. </TD></TR></TABLE>

kg/mm not cm

also most setups with ridiculously stiff springs have much stiffer shocks and are not always 'that' uncomfortable, its not that easy of a comparison.

14kg/mm + springs and shocks = (IMO) need rollcage or rollbar. too much strain.

koni/gc or revalved koni/gc is probably the best bet. anything else (jdm) and you really dont know what you are getting. plus the valving they CLAIM to have on these jdm coilovers usually is not what is advertised. not all, but a good amount of them. plus, the rebuilding concern. you want to send your **** to japan to get fixed? or take a chance that it can get fixed by their US affiliate? In some cases they NEED to be sent back overseas, and i'm not going to sit around and wait for 3-4 months to get them back. unacceptable. koni/gc =

 

[QUOTE=Chris N]

kg/mm not cm
QUOTE]

I know mistyped whoops. As far as valving I asked what people thought and everyone who track used the FLEX loved 'em. And the butt skip pad and dyno are the one's that really count. How it feels to a driver

as far as the 14kg/mm needin a rollcage from what I've heard it's not til you bump it up to the 18kg/mm range of the ERS.

JMO

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh and wanna talk bout cost Koni 3011's ???
</TD></TR></TABLE>

~$400 per corner, then add springs. Best suspension buy on the market, IMO.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

~$400 per corner, then add springs. Best suspension buy on the market, IMO.</TD></TR></TABLE>



Yeah before goin to Penske.... so that means with the money he could buy two struts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OK read AGAIN. I'm pointing out what is best for best. I.E. I pointed out the COST of the revalved koni's and they are already stock beyond his budget (LEARN TO READ). As far as the TEIN comparison you are simply a moron. The FLEX is designed for the street/track cars in Japan since it is VERY hard to own more than one car. The RA is all out race. And Koni Yellow's are good but that comparo is retarded. Oh and I can select any spring rate I want as well with better shock-threaded spgings.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I understand that the creators budget is $800, and I believe myself to be quite competent in my reading ability. I was simply stating revalved Yellows + GC's are superior than the Flex's, and cost less for that matter. Im sorry if the subject of coilover systems strikes such a nerve with you, nothing I wrote had any intention of doing so. I have seen many examples of how bad the "lower model" TEIN's valving is. Bad roads are almost too much. The older HA's (now the RA's) are very well manufactured, and is why I run them on our Supra. But for a Honda, they float in a price range that has many competitors, and quite a few offer better products.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh and wanna talk bout cost Koni 3011's ??? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was more or less naming them as an example of the pinnacle of track setups, so the creator can grasp the scope of how large of a range there are in terms of suspension setups. From $200 lowering springs, to $2500 dollar race applications. I find it quite relevant considering your first post included:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you want all out track go with the RA's or BC race spec </TD></TR></TABLE>



<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm trying to give the man info and you should go do some research before you slam anything... dimwit</TD></TR></TABLE>

Research about what? Have you seen shock dyno's of Zeal/TEIN/JIC coilovers? It is actually really sad how much overhyped some of those systems are. To me, a shock that needs rebuilding every few years is not what I would consider a good piece of equipment. And try calling TEIN/Zeal/JIC in Japan and see how far you get in terms of customer service. You best bet is to go through a distributor and hope they speak Japanese. I will be happy if my HA's last another few years so that I do not have to wait 6 months for a rebuilt shock body to come back from TEIN in Japan.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Nytemare &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">[QUOTE=Chris N]

kg/mm not cm
QUOTE]

I know mistyped whoops. As far as valving I asked what people thought and everyone who track used the FLEX loved 'em. And the butt skip pad and dyno are the one's that really count. How it feels to a driver

as far as the 14kg/mm needin a rollcage from what I've heard it's not til you bump it up to the 18kg/mm range of the ERS.

JMO</TD></TR></TABLE>

better safe than sorry, thats why i said 14.

stuff like the flex is nice for street and track. it in no way compares to setup designed for just the track, like tein RA/RE, buddy club, zeal s6, etc.

My opinion on coilovers is, unless you want to be uncomfortable some of the time (or all of the time) around town, stay stock. I did the coilover thing for a while, very uncomfortable. I'd rather have a second car and drive only to/from the track with a track suspension than drive around town with a suspension that is 'ok' around town and only 'ok' on the track.

 

I know I know I know I saw the shock dyno's and I LOVE the koni's don't get me wrong. I'm trying to answer for A: the cost and B: what I have heard when I was researching what suspension to get. Sorry I didn't mean to call names don't know what I was thinkin... I'm a dumbass. I love the Koni's and from what I've heard the FLEX is a GREAT mix of street and track... plus with the prothane master kit most other coil-overs = broken bones

Sorry man I know the info and didn't mean to be a jackass. peace

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92TypeR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Research about what? Have you seen shock dyno's of Zeal/TEIN/JIC coilovers? It is actually really sad how much overhyped most of those systems are. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed.