Besides the higher price of the endyn system, is there really an advantage of running this over the greddy catch can?

 

a can is a can....

How do you plan on hooking it up? Are you going to use the fitting for the back of the block?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a can is a can....

How do you plan on hooking it up? Are you going to use the fitting for the back of the block?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorta true. It's all about the setup. The nice thing about the endyne is that it provides a ll the pieces to setup the can the way it seems alot of people like/support.

 

The endyn does seem more complete and I searched to find different ways people have set them up. Seems like the extra $50 may be worth it for the endyn. Thanks for helpin the new guy.

 

anybody know where I can order one?

 

Get the Endyn or piece together one yourself using the Moroso can. The Greddy isn't baffled. It's just an empty can. The only thing I don't like about the Moroso is that the aluminum is very thin. Z10 has a similar setup to Endyn, and the catch can looks to be much more solid, but there are no prices on their website. I agree with the other guys who said it depends how you want to hook it up. This seems to be a constant debate, but there's tons of information in the archives.

 

I went with Endyn and I'm glad I did, it is the best way to vent the crank case, and it comes with absolutely every thing you will need to hook it up, no matter where in the engine bay u decide to put it. I still have clamps, hoses and other misc. stuff left from it.

 

20oz soda bottle works wonders

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by underpressure02 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a can is a can....
</TD></TR></TABLE>


one is baffled and one isn't.

 

Dasher, I just plugged the driver side line to my catch can yesterday. All I have is the 1/2" line to the passenger side with the 3/8" drain spliced into it. Drove it around, and so far, so good. I'll keep you updated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16A Grenade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dasher, I just plugged the driver side line to my catch can yesterday. All I have is the 1/2" line to the passenger side with the 3/8" drain spliced into it. Drove it around, and so far, so good. I'll keep you updated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i think it will work fine ... the real question is if using the driver side line causes problems or assists in ventilating the crankcase.

let me know if this solves your problems ... thanks for the update.

 

anybody have pics on the install of either?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 12SEC CIV &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anybody have pics on the install of either?</TD></TR></TABLE>
here, I installed the Z10 and Greddy catch can to work together, no more oil coming out of the filter like most of you guys have.

 

That's crazy looking! I've been staring at both pictures trying to figure out where the lines are going, so I'll be the first to guess...

-Stainless braided -an line from valve cover to top of Greddy can.
-Can't see it, but I'm guessing the other fitting (rubber hose) on top of the Greddy can goes to the the block.
-The clear braided hose on the side of the Greddy goes to the lower side fitting on the Z10 can.
-At first glance it looks like you have more stainless braided hose going to the top of the Z10 can, but the other angle looks like you've plugged it. I'm gonna say it's plugged.

I love the color of your valve cover, btw! Please fill us in on where exactly everything is connected. No drainback? Using driver or passenger side port?

 

OK, let see if I can explain this as simple as I can. 1st, we all know or atleast most of us know that the Greddy catch CAN has 2 fittings coming out of it and no breather filter. So, I drilled and tap a hole on top of the can as you can see from the picture. This hole where oil will come out due to crankcase pressure. Now, the A/N fitting you see from the valve cover goes to one of the fitting of the Greddy. The other fitting from the Greddy goes into the driver side port of the block. I did not use the other port off the block. Now, the clear hose on top of the Greddy goes to the bottom port of the Z10. The upper port is plugged. The Z10 catches all the oil coming out of the Greddy and by the time oil gets to the Z10, the pressure drop and it does not come out of the filter at all. No mess. Both catch can have some filtration to absorb the oil.

 

That's exactly how I thought it was hooked up, but I wasn't sure about which port you used on the block. You're using no return, then? In my post above I mentioned that I recently plugged the driver side and only use the passenger. I haven't had problems using both, it just makes the Moroso filter wet after a while, but there's no dripping. My bov, which is right next to the filter, was getting misted with oil, and this attracted dirt. Using a tennis wrist band helped, but the smell is disgusting, and probably hazardous. I even thought about running a large hose from the top of the catch can to remotely mount the filter somewhere else in the engine bay so I wouldn't smell that ****. I wouldn't mind doubling up on the catch cans like you did, but I've heard that you shouldn't have the valve cover breather and block breather hooked up to the same can. How long has it been hooked up this way? Also, why did you plug the stock valve cover breather?

By the way, since I plugged the one line the other day, I've noticed that the smell is much more faint. It's only been a couple of days, though.

I have a Z10 plug that I plan to use for my next block. Initially, I thought of drilling and tapping it to use a 3/8" barb strictly as a drain for the catch can, but my thoughts are that the pressure would blow unbaffled oil vapors to the top of the catch can. However, if I use a 1/2" barb and then run a T there, instead of where it is now, the oil vapors would take the path of least resistance like it does now, and be a more effective drain because it is lower (stock location). Does anyone have any opinions on this idea?

 

Anyone?