what would you guys think about doing a swap like this in a 3g prelude?

 

just get the H22

 

I've seen a couple motors like that.. supposedly they're all the rage.. I think they're pretty neat.. but the research on them is even slimer than the h22 itself.. the h22 is a frustrating motor considering all the parts that are out for it.. good luck..

 

You might think about getting a kit to bolt an H22A head onto your block. There is someone that makes a kit for it, I'll try to find it.

 

I thought the kit for the 3rd gen lude used a b16 head???? I saw talk of it on your computer at work one day JG, I think it was hondaprelude.com or something.....does any of that ring a bell?


Later.

 

the kit was for an H22A head... but yeah, the link was on HP.com I believe.

 

JG: You going turbo as per your avatar? If so, what kinda setup are you thinking about running.

-Jordan

 

my setup will be:
T04 turbo, custom cams, 9-9.5:1 CR forged pistons, SS valves and springs with tit. retainers..

that's just the basics. I haven't commited to one complete setup yet.

 

What kinda boost do you think your internals can handle? Also what kind HP and 1/4 numbers do you think you will be looking at once you go turbo?

Also, what made you decide to go turbo? I think that was the right decision in any event...

-Jordan

 

I'm doing n2o first just to experience it.

Also, with the turbo, I hope to put down 500+ to the wheels, and I'm aiming for 11's.

 

WOW! That sounds great and all, but make sure you slow way down before you head into a tight corner because all that weight and momentum might not allow you to take it as you may expect. I've heard too many civic w/b22's crashing because of that..granted that gen lude is a bit wider, but be carefull!

 

500HP!?! Damn... More power to you JG! Keep us updated on your project.

-Jordan

 

Damn 500hp! , that's even more than what i'm aiming for
What rods are you going with?

 

I'm not an idiot ricer. I have my track car, it's an 87 Conquest TSi, intercooled turbo fun toy. Boost controller cranked to 15psi, BOV, gutted cats, downpipe, and a few other little toys. 16x9 out back, 16x8 up front, and a factory widebody kit. THAT'S what I do twisties with. The Lude is a toy for the street interstate battles. And of course, the drag strip.

As for rods, I payed an aweful lot for my custom Saenz, I think I'll stick with 'em.

 

Cool, what's different about the rods? Are they slightly longer?
.....and you got a damn TSi too! I've been looking for a Starion that's in good condition for quite some time now but here in chattanooga there's nothing . Have you seen any in pretty good condition? I'm just looking for a nice "classic" dailydriver.

 

Ahhh... yes, the Starion. The Conquest's original badging. LOL I've seen quite a few for a decent price. You could probably get a decent running one for between$2-3k or less. There are some that might need minor work to keep reliable for $1,000-$1,500.

Head over here: http://www.cu-online.com/~ryddler/cgi-bin/swapmeet.cgi
And check out some of the for sales.

They come pretty quick, and are easy to make quicker. http://www.topendperformance.com is a great place for toys.

And some stuff in my motor are a secret... LOL some things even to me! hahaha

 

Hell yea, thanks for the links! I think watching Cannonball Run growing up somehow put subliminal messages in my head tell me "..buy a starion.." haha. Plus they look badass!
A secret?!....awww, weeeeak!
I've also heard something about a problem with the head warping easily if you raise the boost level considerably, is that true? Weak or impropperly spaced/placed headbolts maybe?

 

The heads don't warp, they simply crack like a china doll being dropped off a two story building.

The weakness is the jet valves. They're a leftover emissions thing from the 70's designs that re-circulates exhaust gases. The problem is the jet valves are steel, and the head is aluminum. If you overheat the head then they expand differently, and *bam*... you're blowing smoke with a cracked head.

They sell jet valve eliminator kits that screw in, they help, but they don't eliminate the problem. Best thing to do is just order a head that's been built w/o the jet valves. There are a few places to get them.

The next worst thing is the goddamned two injector system into the TB.
It only has two injectors... who in the hell thought that was a good idea? Anyway, a standalone with four injectors tapped in the manifold, a large turbo, boost cranked, and some other small goodies, you're 12's easy. I've heard of people tweaking and tuning their way to 12's with NOT VERY MUCH. It's sickening. I just wouldn't do it on stock pistons, but the rods are bulletproof.

 

They do use the b16 head. Ludespeed does the coversion. ( http://www.ludespeed.com ) How could you even think its the H22 head, think about it, B series block will hont bolt up with H series head.

 

Sorry for the long reply time. So the stock rods hold up pretty well? If timinng and fuel tuning was watched very carefully around what psi would you say their max is?

 

Stock pistons are 7:1 CR... evil evil evil little creatures. They aren't the best, but they aren't the worst out there. You can get hyper-u pistons and they'll hold more boost, but usually they only come in stock CR's. Forged is, of course, the best way to go. Keith Black (I believe), Weisco and JE all make Forged pistons.

As far as a stock motor? With the ECU redone so the boost cut is gone, and the fuel curve is raised, I've seen people run 20psi. Most folks agree that daily driving, 15 psi is about the max for reliability on a stock motor. The motor is pretty damn stout.

I just got done rebuilding it this weekend. (New rings, head, valves, springs, cam, and cam caps) She runs great, and the BOV I have now sounds friggin SWEET. 36 hours and we had it reassembled. It'll take less time next time since this was our first time on the quest. (I love friends that don't mind getting greasy.)

And as far as the H22 head bolting up:
There is no need to berate me or try and instigate something. I honestly had a recolection of someone making it work, but it did require a lot of modifications. More than likely (since it's been pointed out that the Bseries is easier) I was wrong. It happens to even the best of us. I don't see you posting much tech in here... what things useful to you have to add in here?