hey all, i started my mpfi swap last night and 7 hours later i had to stop at 3 a.m. (cold and tired) i got everything done, but it wouldnt start...so i said **** it, ill do it tomorrow...now today the same problem arises, it wont start...i am showing no codes at all, it just wont start....it turns over, but nothing...i followed the writeup on fourthgenhatch.com so i know it is done right...some things i thought were strange though, last night when i was tightening the mani. bolts i hit a injector and it sprayed all over me...i then found out that when i hit the top of an injector it sprays fuel out the sides...now it wont spray anything out, no matter were i hit it...also, all the directions on the internet were kind of unclear as to the disty wiring, so i just connected c1 and c2 were they were supposed to go, and i matched up the dx wire colors to the si disty wire colors...dont know if this matters...also, when i crank the motor for about 10 seconds and let off, i dont smell any gas at all in the engine bay...i thought i should atleast be able to smell a little....i hear great things about the ugys at honda tech, and i am at home now trying to figure this out...so help quick please!

 

any1 on? dang.........

 

i had the same prob when i first did my swap (no fuel) make sure your grounds are ok espeially the one on the t-stat housing

if you have a bad ground to the ecu the CEL will stay on constantly in the dash
it should turn off after ~3sec after you turn the key when everything is ok

 

my check engine light does go off, but what is the t stat housing you speak of?

 

the thermostat housing

 

swap the two white wires at the distributor plug

 

If you turn the car to the on postion without starting, can you hear the fuel pump prime? It's kind of a low moan that you have to listen for. If it is, check your wiring again.... and as green91 mentioned, swap the two white wires around. Also do you have the right firing order on the distributor to cylinders? I didn't the first time around, and it wouldnt do anything either.

oh, and Welcome to Honda-Tech be prepared to spend countless hours on here.

 

thanks, well i found out that when installing a new disty its idiot proof....meaning it can only go in one way, i guess honda did this so that they could try and stop you from putting the disty in 180 degrees outof spec...i already switched the white wires around, and this cleared 1 code when i did this...so i know the way they are now is the correct way...but ill try this, put the #1 cylinder at tdc, then pull the disty cap and make sure the rotor is pointing to the #1 spark plug wire...thanks for the help guys, keep it going...how do i know if its at tdc ON the compression stroke? i also made sure the ground on the thermostat housing was on tight, which it was...my fuel pump also turns on when the key is on...i know fuel is getting to the injectors too, because when i take off the fitting on the left side of the rail, fuel comes out...hopefully, i just have the rotor in the wrong place...would timing matter? or is that why you put it to tdc before you put the disty on anyways?

 

it is possible to have the rotor 180 degs off. ive never set my motor at TDC when installing a dizzy..

 

ok i pulled my disty and turned the little rotor on the part that connects to the head 180 degrees...then i went to put it on and it wouldnt fit in...i spent like 10 mintues tryin to get it in this way, i would turn it back to were it was origionally and then put it in and the disty fit in fine...so there is no way for me to set the disty 180 degrees apart........damn im lost...there are milliseconds during turning over the car when it sounds like it wants to start, but doesnt...

 

it's possible to put it in 180*, but you have it the right way... I went through all of this too...

Make sure you have the right firing order for the cyclinders on your engine. Some are different than others.

Also, check your ground connections. Are you 100% you are getting spark? Check your fuel pressure, crank it for a bit and then loosen the fuel pressure regulator l supply line up a bit, it should spray out a little.

If you have both of these, then you might have other issues. Is your timing set right? I have had a car before with the timing so far off, and that was all it needed to run.

Check your spark plug gap too...

Just keep trying different stuff till you get it right.

 

do topics get taken to the top on this forum when it gets a new post? and could you explain checking for fuel better pelase...the firing order should be fine right? why would the firing order be different between a dx and a si?

 

Yes when someone makes a post in an older thread, it brings it back to the top of the list on that forum... You can also click on Recent Topics at the top right of the screen by your user name... It will show you all topics you have replied in the last 14 days or so.

Turn your car to the on position, without trying to get it to start.... ie so you can just use the power items in your car. You should be able to hear the fuel pump prime itself.... sounds like a moan for about a second then it stops. Your fuel pump is good.

Then you can check for fuel pressure at the Fuel Pressure Regulator... your fuel line should be attached at the bottom of this. loosen the line a bit and some fuel should start coming out. You then have good fuel.

Check to make sure that you have power at all injectors too. You can do this by taking a socket extension... preferably a longer one... and put it on the injector itself and the other end to your ear... you can hear it click open and shut... Have your buddy crank the car while you are listening to the injectors.... If all of them are clicking, you have proper power to the injectors.

You can also check spark by pulling the spark plug wire off the plug while cranking... the spark will bounce in the cylinders... just make damn sure your hand isn't on the metal part of the cylinder head (if that happens, you WILL know it.) <---- I learned the hard way

If you have good spark on all the cylinders and good fuel pressure, and properly working injectors... Then I would go over your wiring again...