how to install my new injectors on my 5th gen
please tell me you're running boost or nitrous. bigger injectors don't do **** unless you are getting a lot more air into the engine, they usually just overload the cylinders with fuel causing a loss in power. injector size must be very precise or your performance is screwed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by luda94 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">please tell me you're running boost or nitrous. bigger injectors don't do **** unless you are getting a lot more air into the engine, they usually just overload the cylinders with fuel causing a loss in power. injector size must be very precise or your performance is screwed</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes we are. anyone done it before?
yes we are. anyone done it before?
ok lets see if i can explain this well.
Turn the car off let it cool for a min of 1 hour. Disconnect neg on battery. Take off gas cap to relieve pressure. On the end of your fuel rail, there should be a banjo bolt. Have a rag handy and lay it down surrounding the bolt. Losten the bolt and a little bit of fuel should come out. Then take off the fuel rail and the injectors pop right out. Becareful of the injector o-rings. When you reinstall them coat them with some fresh motor oil, then make sure they are seated right or you are going to have a nasty fuel leak. Reinstall in reverse order. DO NOT FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE BANJO BOLT AGAIN.
Before starting the car, turn the key to the ACC position (2 clicks) and let the fuel pump prime. This should be the time at which you check for fuel leaks or anything else you botched. If everything seems ok, fire her up, once again checking for leaks.
Turn the car off let it cool for a min of 1 hour. Disconnect neg on battery. Take off gas cap to relieve pressure. On the end of your fuel rail, there should be a banjo bolt. Have a rag handy and lay it down surrounding the bolt. Losten the bolt and a little bit of fuel should come out. Then take off the fuel rail and the injectors pop right out. Becareful of the injector o-rings. When you reinstall them coat them with some fresh motor oil, then make sure they are seated right or you are going to have a nasty fuel leak. Reinstall in reverse order. DO NOT FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE BANJO BOLT AGAIN.
Before starting the car, turn the key to the ACC position (2 clicks) and let the fuel pump prime. This should be the time at which you check for fuel leaks or anything else you botched. If everything seems ok, fire her up, once again checking for leaks.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok lets see if i can explain this well.
Turn the car off let it cool for a min of 1 hour. Disconnect neg on battery. Take off gas cap to relieve pressure. On the end of your fuel rail, there should be a banjo bolt. Have a rag handy and lay it down surrounding the bolt. Losten the bolt and a little bit of fuel should come out. Then take off the fuel rail and the injectors pop right out. Becareful of the injector o-rings. When you reinstall them coat them with some fresh motor oil, then make sure they are seated right or you are going to have a nasty fuel leak. Reinstall in reverse order. DO NOT FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE BANJO BOLT AGAIN.
Before starting the car, turn the key to the ACC position (2 clicks) and let the fuel pump prime. This should be the time at which you check for fuel leaks or anything else you botched. If everything seems ok, fire her up, once again checking for leaks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for that part but what about wiring up the resister box and injector clips, im aware of the many write ups, but on our car we have to start from under the IM
Turn the car off let it cool for a min of 1 hour. Disconnect neg on battery. Take off gas cap to relieve pressure. On the end of your fuel rail, there should be a banjo bolt. Have a rag handy and lay it down surrounding the bolt. Losten the bolt and a little bit of fuel should come out. Then take off the fuel rail and the injectors pop right out. Becareful of the injector o-rings. When you reinstall them coat them with some fresh motor oil, then make sure they are seated right or you are going to have a nasty fuel leak. Reinstall in reverse order. DO NOT FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE BANJO BOLT AGAIN.
Before starting the car, turn the key to the ACC position (2 clicks) and let the fuel pump prime. This should be the time at which you check for fuel leaks or anything else you botched. If everything seems ok, fire her up, once again checking for leaks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks for that part but what about wiring up the resister box and injector clips, im aware of the many write ups, but on our car we have to start from under the IM
according to your first post i thought you already had a resistor box and such hooked up.
Ah well, good luck with that one. Any type of work under/ or taking the intake manifold off SUCKS. Im sure there are numerous writes up around that can help you. once again, good luck.
Ah well, good luck with that one. Any type of work under/ or taking the intake manifold off SUCKS. Im sure there are numerous writes up around that can help you. once again, good luck.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98TypeSH »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok lets see if i can explain this well.
Turn the car off let it cool for a min of 1 hour. Disconnect neg on battery. Take off gas cap to relieve pressure. On the end of your fuel rail, there should be a banjo bolt. Have a rag handy and lay it down surrounding the bolt. Losten the bolt and a little bit of fuel should come out. Then take off the fuel rail and the injectors pop right out. Becareful of the injector o-rings. When you reinstall them coat them with some fresh motor oil, then make sure they are seated right or you are going to have a nasty fuel leak. Reinstall in reverse order. DO NOT FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE BANJO BOLT AGAIN.
Before starting the car, turn the key to the ACC position (2 clicks) and let the fuel pump prime. This should be the time at which you check for fuel leaks or anything else you botched. If everything seems ok, fire her up, once again checking for leaks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly
Turn the car off let it cool for a min of 1 hour. Disconnect neg on battery. Take off gas cap to relieve pressure. On the end of your fuel rail, there should be a banjo bolt. Have a rag handy and lay it down surrounding the bolt. Losten the bolt and a little bit of fuel should come out. Then take off the fuel rail and the injectors pop right out. Becareful of the injector o-rings. When you reinstall them coat them with some fresh motor oil, then make sure they are seated right or you are going to have a nasty fuel leak. Reinstall in reverse order. DO NOT FORGET TO TIGHTEN THE BANJO BOLT AGAIN.
Before starting the car, turn the key to the ACC position (2 clicks) and let the fuel pump prime. This should be the time at which you check for fuel leaks or anything else you botched. If everything seems ok, fire her up, once again checking for leaks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
exactly
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by delLudeVTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
exactly
</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah i can read. was wondering about the resister box hookup
exactly
</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah i can read. was wondering about the resister box hookup
Here is the easy way.
Stock resistor boxes usually have a 6-pin connector on them. Remove all of the pins from the connector. You do this by removing the white plastic piece with a needle nose pliers. Then you can push the pins up and out of the connector.
On 5th gen Preludes and most other Hondas with saturated injectors, there is an injector power distribution connector. It looks very similar to the original resistor box connector, but it is an 8-pin connector. It has yellow/black wires going into it and it looks like it is 'capped' off. But this cap isn't a cap, it's a connector that connects all the points in the 8-pin connector together. Remove the cap, it snaps out.
From an old engine harness (OBD1 has them), find an 8-pin plug that fits in place of the cap you just removed.
Repin the resistor box wires into this connector. In the Preludes stock wiring, 4 of the wires are for the injectors. 1 wire is for power to the injectors and 1 wire is for power to the IACV.
Match up the injector wires to the black wires in the resistor box via the 8-pin connector.
Match up the power wire to the red wire in the resistor box.
One last thing, you will need to add another wire. Splice into the red wire of the resistor box and run this new wire to match up with the IACV in the 8-pin connector. This supplies power to the IACV. To make things easy, make sure to splice in a wire that has the proper size pin crimped on it so it will fit into the 8-pin connector.
That's it. This method makes the resistor box all plug n play. If you want to remove it, just unclip it and put the 'cap' back on.
Stock resistor boxes usually have a 6-pin connector on them. Remove all of the pins from the connector. You do this by removing the white plastic piece with a needle nose pliers. Then you can push the pins up and out of the connector.
On 5th gen Preludes and most other Hondas with saturated injectors, there is an injector power distribution connector. It looks very similar to the original resistor box connector, but it is an 8-pin connector. It has yellow/black wires going into it and it looks like it is 'capped' off. But this cap isn't a cap, it's a connector that connects all the points in the 8-pin connector together. Remove the cap, it snaps out.
From an old engine harness (OBD1 has them), find an 8-pin plug that fits in place of the cap you just removed.
Repin the resistor box wires into this connector. In the Preludes stock wiring, 4 of the wires are for the injectors. 1 wire is for power to the injectors and 1 wire is for power to the IACV.
Match up the injector wires to the black wires in the resistor box via the 8-pin connector.
Match up the power wire to the red wire in the resistor box.
One last thing, you will need to add another wire. Splice into the red wire of the resistor box and run this new wire to match up with the IACV in the 8-pin connector. This supplies power to the IACV. To make things easy, make sure to splice in a wire that has the proper size pin crimped on it so it will fit into the 8-pin connector.
That's it. This method makes the resistor box all plug n play. If you want to remove it, just unclip it and put the 'cap' back on.
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