running without a crossmember?
I just put on a stainless steel dc 4-1 header on my b18a1 and i need to either notch it or dent the mess out of it. I was wondering if i could drive around without it until i order a traction bar?
thanks. my friends with eg's and ek's said i could but i wanted to double check. would you recommend denting it or notching it with a cut-off wheel?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I8ayellowcrayon »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
.
Don't even try it. I'd just notch it
. A header won't perform like its supposed to if its all bashed up...</TD></TR></TABLE>
He didnt mean dent the header duh! He ment should he dent the crossmember, or cut the crossmembe with a cutoff wheel.
First cut off the lip, then dent it in.
-Eric
.Don't even try it. I'd just notch it
. A header won't perform like its supposed to if its all bashed up...</TD></TR></TABLE>He didnt mean dent the header duh! He ment should he dent the crossmember, or cut the crossmembe with a cutoff wheel.
First cut off the lip, then dent it in.
-Eric
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Here's how i did it.
Tools required-oxyacetylene torch, makita grinder, lincoln welding sticks, 1/4" steel
I cut the crossmember so the header cleared. Filled in the gaps with steel. Welded it together, smoothed out the welds with a grinder while checking for cracks. Painted it black afterwards.
Tools required-oxyacetylene torch, makita grinder, lincoln welding sticks, 1/4" steel
I cut the crossmember so the header cleared. Filled in the gaps with steel. Welded it together, smoothed out the welds with a grinder while checking for cracks. Painted it black afterwards.
heres what i did.
Tools required: Torch, welder, grinder.
I just cut away the lip with the grinder, then i grinded it more.. Then i used the torch heated it up, and used the heat to make it easier to dent (wanted it to be the same sized dent as what the header needed)
Then i welded up the hole along the bottom, many passes with mig welder, grinded it smooth painted it...
I would post pics but we-todd-did dosent seem to be working
Tools required: Torch, welder, grinder.
I just cut away the lip with the grinder, then i grinded it more.. Then i used the torch heated it up, and used the heat to make it easier to dent (wanted it to be the same sized dent as what the header needed)
Then i welded up the hole along the bottom, many passes with mig welder, grinded it smooth painted it...
I would post pics but we-todd-did dosent seem to be working
If this helps, when i tried fitting my aftermarket header on DOHC ZC in my HB it would not go on. I banged the crap out of the x-member
and later figured out if i jacked up the motor a lil bit that it would fit perfect, lowered it and didnt even touch the crossmember.
and later figured out if i jacked up the motor a lil bit that it would fit perfect, lowered it and didnt even touch the crossmember.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JapJunkie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If this helps, when i tried fitting my aftermarket header on DOHC ZC in my HB it would not go on. I banged the crap out of the x-member
and later figured out if i jacked up the motor a lil bit that it would fit perfect, lowered it and didnt even touch the crossmember.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes but... this is a different case, its not fitting the header by the crossmember, its once the header is on that the crossmember wont clear and it hits..
But good idea for thouse with 1 piece headers that cant get them past to install.
and later figured out if i jacked up the motor a lil bit that it would fit perfect, lowered it and didnt even touch the crossmember.</TD></TR></TABLE>yes but... this is a different case, its not fitting the header by the crossmember, its once the header is on that the crossmember wont clear and it hits..
But good idea for thouse with 1 piece headers that cant get them past to install.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes but... this is a different case, its not fitting the header by the crossmember, its once the header is on that the crossmember wont clear and it hits..
But good idea for thouse with 1 piece headers that cant get them past to install.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea i knew that, i was just giving peeps an idea to maybe try this first, and then they would be able to figure out that the x-member needs to be cut
But good idea for thouse with 1 piece headers that cant get them past to install.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea i knew that, i was just giving peeps an idea to maybe try this first, and then they would be able to figure out that the x-member needs to be cut
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 842
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From: rigged and ready., WashingtonD.C./FlagstaffAZ/TempeAZ usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JapJunkie »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yea i knew that, i was just giving peeps an idea to maybe try this first, and then they would be able to figure out that the x-member needs to be cut
</TD></TR></TABLE>
cool, waste our time, dick
Yea i knew that, i was just giving peeps an idea to maybe try this first, and then they would be able to figure out that the x-member needs to be cut
</TD></TR></TABLE>cool, waste our time, dick
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itsallmotor »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">cool, waste our time, dick
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well hey fuuucker, its good to try that b4 cutting up ****
</TD></TR></TABLE>Well hey fuuucker, its good to try that b4 cutting up ****
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