I'm debating whether or not if i should sleeve my d16y8 block, because from what people have mentioned, it really helped alleviate the blown headgasket issue.
what are your thoughts

 

Depends.. M.A.R.C. had nothing but problems with my old sleeved 77mm D16 blowing headgaskets also, PM him for details.

 

Any improperly sleeved block with blow gaskets left and right.

 

I don't think sleeving the block will resolve any headgasket issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think sleeving the block will resolve any headgasket issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought d series sleeves tend to move under stress. and thus sleeving gives the cylinder the strength they need to NOT shift (aka blow gasekets)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igo4bmx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i thought d series sleeves tend to move under stress. and thus sleeving gives the cylinder the strength they need to NOT shift (aka blow gasekets)</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I don't think sleeving the block will resolve any headgasket issues.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Under high boost I would imagine that they sleeves may shift slightly, but that would probably be at or around the fine line of what kind of power, temp, and pressures the block itself can handle.

I agree mostly with Ryan, you shouldnt sleeve your block just because you can get the headgasket to properly work. I have a pretty stout D series with stock sleeves and absolutely no problem with the headgasket (all of my problems are elsewhere )

Proper machine shop work before installing the head along with ARP studs and some sticky **** on the headgasket ( ) should work.

out

 

I know 2 D16 sleeved blocks who had nothing but issues for the past 3 years, finally got sleeved block with step decks, been boosting hard and never looked back. The step deck/o-ring helps to further seal the HG to both surfaces, and the strength of the aftermarket sleeves keep everythig tight.

 

before you jump into a big project of sleeving right away. Look back at the history of the build up. The main thing to check on is the machining process.
was the block decked properly and was it checked for straightness as well?

As far as sleeved blocks, we step deck all our blocks for a proper seal on the head. never any leaks on the HG. B, D, or H motors.

 

Try backing your timing down if your having head gasket problems and see if that helps before spending $1,000 on sleeves. From all the "head lifting" threads I have been reading it looks like it's all about the timing when it comes to d-series motors.

 

im thinking as well its cylinder pressures causing that . **** i have a closed deck sleeved d16 and ive gone through a gasket already......this one seems to be good to go.

 

If the sleeves were the D Series' problem with blowing headgaskets, the stock B Series would be having the same problem.

 

exactly....

 

Sleeves will not solve the problem trust me i know.. it is all in the tuning of the EMS.

TIming, Timing, Timing, i cant say it enough.

Brian

 

im doing a build now, and want to make sure nothing goes wrong...
i wanna do it the right way first... not fix it later

 

So D and B series sleeves are equivalent?

I never knew that, thanks for the info.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegunderpressure &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So D and B series sleeves are equivalent?

I never knew that, thanks for the info. </TD></TR></TABLE>

D Series sleeves may actually be stronger. Do a search for information Boosted-Hybrid posted on "moment of inertia."

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Try backing your timing down if your having head gasket problems and see if that helps before spending $1,000 on sleeves. From all the "head lifting" threads I have been reading it looks like it's all about the timing when it comes to d-series motors.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My experiences with turbo Ds make me think you are correct. My personal car being the best example. 9-13 psi for 23,000 miles with no more than 19* total timing. never had the head off ever in 160k. I'm always tempted to run more to see if I can gain any power but reliability is better than 10-20 hp more in my book. Now I don't plan on running any more timing even when the built block comes out when I finally get around to finishing it.

 

make sure your ignition is on point and get some arp headstuds to hold the head. D serise are pretty prone to head lift under boost

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hyaboosta &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">D serise are pretty prone to head lift under boost</TD></TR></TABLE>

It's the sleeves shifting, not the head lifting.

Read TurbodCX's reply on the second page... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1086958

Here's another post with some good info also... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1087607

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's the sleeves shifting, not the head lifting.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

so wouldnt a blockguard help? i know tons of people hate em but it should keep the sleeves from shifting

 

i have a closed deck , they cant shift.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It's the sleeves shifting, not the head lifting.

Read TurbodCX's reply on the second page... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1086958

Here's another post with some good info also... https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1087607</TD></TR></TABLE>

TurbodCX never said anything about sleeves shifting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">TurbodCX never said anything about sleeves shifting.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i always thought it was sleeve shifting affecting the headgaskets in d series...
and thus why posting the block or adding a blocguard would help


i may invest in one of those...

 

If the burn in the cylinder is correct(along with all machine work) you should not lift the head with head studs until you are at 400-450whp......stock sleeves....

we pushed coolant at 24psi when trying to go beyond 350 with our unsleeved D. I reduced the timing by 3 degrees 20&gt;17 and I didnt push coolant until 27psi...so I reduce the timing at 27psi from 15&gt;12....no more push...then made a full pull at 407whp...on and off the dam boost cut the Hondata supposedly doesnt have when turned off....

I believe the cylinder pressure at that boost level and power level for stock sleeves is a little much.....the cylinders ability is at its maximum....so beyond 450whp its gonna shift and move big time....you can calculate what the cylinder can take pressure wise close enough with basic equations......you just need to know the cylinder pressure....very hard to calculate...nice to have a cylinder pressure gauge.......

Turbodcx was pushing headgaskets on the track only until he back the timing down too....now its fine....and still makes over 500whp...but he has sleeves....


Howard

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AR Fab &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
we pushed coolant at 24psi when trying to go beyond 350 with our unsleeved D. I reduced the timing by 3 degrees 20&gt;17 and I didnt push coolant until 27psi...so I reduce the timing at 27psi from 15&gt;12....no more push...then made a full pull at 407whp...on and off the dam boost cut the Hondata supposedly doesnt have when turned off....
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you replace the headgasket each time after pushing coolant?