I'm looking to rebuild my b17 engine (92 Teg GSR).

This is what I plan on doing:

ITR Pistons oversized 81.25 with Rings
ITR Valves
ITR Retainers
ITR Valvesprings
ITR Camshafts
B17 Rods (stock)
B17 Crankshaft (stock)

My goal is to have a reliable engine with a little more hp.

Those are just the parts that will be used for the engine. The engine will be broken down, cleaned, machined, and put back together using all brand new oem misc parts, etc..

I just wanna know if this is all I do, can I keep everything else stock??? ie. ECU. fuel pump, fuel injectors, etc....

Also, should I use JDM ITR Pistons, or USDM ITR Pistons??

thanks, Guys.

 

I would personally go with os pr3 ( usdm b16a) or os p30 (jdm b16) they will give you 10.7:1 or 10.9:1 respectively...with itr or ctr rods you will have to machine your rods to get them to fit the pistons where the pr3 or p30's will go right on to the rods with out machining. everything else you listed seems good. i'd suggest if the motor is apart to pick up a set of cam gears, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and vafc for tuning purposes if money permits. otherwise have fun building

 

How many miles are on the engine and car? This will delegate what you should replace. I have a high mileage engine (174k) and I'm sending my fuel injectors out to get cleaned. It's only like $50 so it's worth it to know they are clogged at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Slain &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would personally go with os pr3 ( usdm b16a) or os p30 (jdm b16) they will give you 10.7:1 or 10.9:1 respectively...with itr or ctr rods you will have to machine your rods to get them to fit the pistons where the pr3 or p30's will go right on to the rods with out machining. everything else you listed seems good. i'd suggest if the motor is apart to pick up a set of cam gears, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and vafc for tuning purposes if money permits. otherwise have fun building</TD></TR></TABLE>

just wanted to note that he goofed, and meant to say pistons... otherwise all his information is correct and I agree...
-Mike

 

ITR's will drop compression (compared to the stock c/r rating of the piston), remember stroke is a huge part of the compression formula. i'd go with pct's and machine the rods or go with pr3's or p30's like stated before. good luck with everything.

 

223,330 miles on the engine.. still runs and pulls super strong, doesn't burn or leak oil.

So USDM or JDM B16 pistons are the way to go.. Alright thanks.

If I use ITR or CTR Rods, would I still have to do some machining to get them to fit?

but do i still have to upgrade my fuel management, ECU and stuff like that? or can I just bolt the engine back in and have it run on stock settings and still perform 100%????

 

pct or p72 rods will not fit whatsoever. they wont come close. the guy before meant to say pistons instead of rods.

to answer your tuning question: yes, it will need tuning. a chipped p28 (or your own p61 chipped) and vafc or hondata s200 are always really helpfull. i'm sure the car will run without any tuning, but wont run to its full potential and might actually run poorly. dyno time is always good.

 

might as well get arp rod bolts while you're at it.

 

sounds great..

so I'm gonna use JDM B16 oversized pistons.

anything else?

anyone have an idea on how much hp I would be making? stock is 160.

 

here's my 2 cents:

get forged pistons...i like wiseco. maybe a 5cc dome depending on what octane youre gonna run. over anything else i would like to highlight their weight reduction. about 275grams a pop w/ pin?. i believe those oem casts are well over 300 and the heavy *** stock pins. Less stress on the bottom end at high revs, you cant beat that. no comment on bore.

as for rods, shotpeen them or leave it stock. Upgrade to ARP hardware. if youre all motor or daily driven this is good enough. they will be taking less stress than the stock ones anyway with the forged slugs.

as for the crank. you can leave it stock. if you got money get it balanced.

as for the cam setup. CTR/ITR is nice. Personally i wish i went skunk2 stage 2 instead. They got ITR mid end and even more top end. dont forget cam gears. I dont think you need TI retainers. Youre better off buying ITR intake valves if you want to save weight.

this setup might cost a little more, but i think it'll be very worthwhile.

 

aftermarket pistons is over doing it in my opinion if you're just rebuilding.

depending on what kinda compression ratio you want, pick some kind of OEM piston, ie. ctr, itr, b16 p30


https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=936656

check out that thread, not sure if Irev210 still has them, but you can probably Pm him and get a good deal for some kinda pistons for less than 150!

 

the car is gonna be a all motor daily driver.. I would like to get compression anything above 10.5:1. I always use 93 gas, and sometimes use 104+ octane booster for fun

I plan on using ARP for all new hardware.

And also the top end will be all ITR(valves, retainers, valve springs, camshafts)

Should I use both intake and exhaust ITR camshafts? or stick to just intake?

 

bump

 

 

yeah sorry about that before i meant itr or ctr pistons. doh lol.. i forgot to mention new bearings before oem honda or acl bearings are good, and the appropriate gaskets and seals....i'm gonna rebuild my b17 when i have more funds. will be dropping in a b18c5 with jdm pistons in mine for the time being. Have fun with your build

 

u say your gonna put in a type r engine?

I've thought about both routes(rebuild vs. type r). is are you doing JDM or USDM b18c5?? what else do u have to change when doing the type r swap??

what would you recommend? If I bought a b18c5, i wouldnt be able to rebuild it for awhile.. **hoping it wouldnt need it since they say they come with only 40,000 km's on.

or just rebuild mine, it'll be brand new? my goal is to reach type r hp.. around 200 to the crank.

 

check ur pm's