another DIY manifold
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ButteroJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont forget to cut your flange to allow for expansion</TD></TR></TABLE>
please do elaborate.
please do elaborate.
looks good man, i did a similar manifold for my accord. once you get your collector cut your most likely going to have to tweak alot of what you did already to make it fit. you'll see what i mean when ya get to it but it was the worst part of the build imo. post a pic when shes done!
<typical h-t bandwagon retard response> nice full-race knock off you dirty idea theif; i hope you burn in hell!!! because full-race was the firstest peepl EVAR to build a ram-horn manifold!!!11six</idiot>
heh; seriously that looks nice; where did you buy those bends?
And how much experience do you have?
And lastly are you MIG'ing TIG'ing or ARC'ing that thing together?
I'll be right smack dab in your shoes in a very short time and i'm kinda wondering what i'm in for. My metalworking experience is 0 but I do like to wrap my mind around things and comprehend them before I jump in too deep.
but anyway; nice manifold!
heh; seriously that looks nice; where did you buy those bends?
And how much experience do you have?
And lastly are you MIG'ing TIG'ing or ARC'ing that thing together?
I'll be right smack dab in your shoes in a very short time and i'm kinda wondering what i'm in for. My metalworking experience is 0 but I do like to wrap my mind around things and comprehend them before I jump in too deep.
but anyway; nice manifold!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"><typical h-t bandwagon retard response> nice full-race knock off you dirty idea theif; i hope you burn in hell!!! because full-race was the firstest peepl EVAR to build a ram-horn manifold!!!11six</idiot> </TD></TR></TABLE>
A little over the top, I think.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And lastly are you MIG'ing TIG'ing or ARC'ing that thing together? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Those look to be MIG tacks to me.
A little over the top, I think.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComputerJLT »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And lastly are you MIG'ing TIG'ing or ARC'ing that thing together? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Those look to be MIG tacks to me.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goullish »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A little over the top, I think.
Those look to be MIG tacks to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
spend some time in the fi forum; every other retard in there thinks that full-race spent gazillions of dollars devolping a manifold who's design has been around since before the majority of the forum member's parent's were of driving age. It's really annoying.
and i figured those were mig welds I just thought i'd ask; i've been wrong before
A little over the top, I think.
Those look to be MIG tacks to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>
spend some time in the fi forum; every other retard in there thinks that full-race spent gazillions of dollars devolping a manifold who's design has been around since before the majority of the forum member's parent's were of driving age. It's really annoying.
and i figured those were mig welds I just thought i'd ask; i've been wrong before
Post some pics when she's done. Wouldn't mind seeing some full engine pics either, I like seeing how other crx engine bays are. I'm sporting the half rad too
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i can already tell you it wont work. you needthe collector first before you start tackin the pipes together. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I you are refering to the runners 2 and 3 being so close then you are a bit off. The picture make it looks worse but they will clear the collector. I had a mocked up collector and kinda eyeballed it and it will work just fine. You'll see. I'll have it doneby the end of this week.
I you are refering to the runners 2 and 3 being so close then you are a bit off. The picture make it looks worse but they will clear the collector. I had a mocked up collector and kinda eyeballed it and it will work just fine. You'll see. I'll have it doneby the end of this week.
In my opinion...
Cutting the flange is only a 'cheat' or a 'bandaid' to make up for having a manifold with a warped flange... when you cut the flanges, it allows the runners to flex individually, so that when you go to tighten the manifold down, the flange will flex, and sit flat... if it wasn't cut, the flange wouldn't be able to flex as much.
i.e. it is cheaper for these guys to cut the flange, than to have the flange properly machined flat after welding the manifold together. I have MANY cars out there running my manifolds with flanges that are not cut... one makes over 730 to the wheels (The former Titan T4 Civic), and it isn't cut. And then of course there are a load of daily drivers as well, and only one of them have ever had any sort of problems with their manifolds, and that wasn't even related to the flange... LoL..
Of course that is only my opinion based on what i have done with my own manifolds... i'm sure there will be differences of opinion
Cutting the flange is only a 'cheat' or a 'bandaid' to make up for having a manifold with a warped flange... when you cut the flanges, it allows the runners to flex individually, so that when you go to tighten the manifold down, the flange will flex, and sit flat... if it wasn't cut, the flange wouldn't be able to flex as much.
i.e. it is cheaper for these guys to cut the flange, than to have the flange properly machined flat after welding the manifold together. I have MANY cars out there running my manifolds with flanges that are not cut... one makes over 730 to the wheels (The former Titan T4 Civic), and it isn't cut. And then of course there are a load of daily drivers as well, and only one of them have ever had any sort of problems with their manifolds, and that wasn't even related to the flange... LoL..
Of course that is only my opinion based on what i have done with my own manifolds... i'm sure there will be differences of opinion
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by project dc2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i can already tell you it wont work. you needthe collector first before you start tackin the pipes together. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree that is the best way to do it. I had to grind the crap out of some of my pipes on the bench grinder to get them to match up perfect so there weren't huge gaps to weld up. The collector pipes are degreed quite a bit.
I agree that is the best way to do it. I had to grind the crap out of some of my pipes on the bench grinder to get them to match up perfect so there weren't huge gaps to weld up. The collector pipes are degreed quite a bit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LostCRX »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I you are refering to the runners 2 and 3 being so close then you are a bit off. The picture make it looks worse but they will clear the collector. I had a mocked up collector and kinda eyeballed it and it will work just fine. You'll see. I'll have it doneby the end of this week. </TD></TR></TABLE>
actrually 2 and 3 look too FAR apart. and 1 and 4 look to close. plus you got a lil funky angle on some.
I you are refering to the runners 2 and 3 being so close then you are a bit off. The picture make it looks worse but they will clear the collector. I had a mocked up collector and kinda eyeballed it and it will work just fine. You'll see. I'll have it doneby the end of this week. </TD></TR></TABLE>
actrually 2 and 3 look too FAR apart. and 1 and 4 look to close. plus you got a lil funky angle on some.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComposiMo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In my opinion...
Cutting the flange is only a 'cheat' or a 'bandaid' to make up for having a manifold with a warped flange... when you cut the flanges, it allows the runners to flex individually, so that when you go to tighten the manifold down, the flange will flex, and sit flat... if it wasn't cut, the flange wouldn't be able to flex as much.
i.e. it is cheaper for these guys to cut the flange, than to have the flange properly machined flat after welding the manifold together. I have MANY cars out there running my manifolds with flanges that are not cut... one makes over 730 to the wheels (The former Titan T4 Civic), and it isn't cut. And then of course there are a load of daily drivers as well, and only one of them have ever had any sort of problems with their manifolds, and that wasn't even related to the flange... LoL..
Of course that is only my opinion based on what i have done with my own manifolds... i'm sure there will be differences of opinion
</TD></TR></TABLE>Whoa there buddy you are completely wrong. Cutting the flange has nothing to do with it being warped. Cutting the flange allows for it to expand properly under temperature, saving the welds from cracking. If you are using mild steel it is not 100% neccesary, but with stainless I would never not do it.
Cutting the flange is only a 'cheat' or a 'bandaid' to make up for having a manifold with a warped flange... when you cut the flanges, it allows the runners to flex individually, so that when you go to tighten the manifold down, the flange will flex, and sit flat... if it wasn't cut, the flange wouldn't be able to flex as much.
i.e. it is cheaper for these guys to cut the flange, than to have the flange properly machined flat after welding the manifold together. I have MANY cars out there running my manifolds with flanges that are not cut... one makes over 730 to the wheels (The former Titan T4 Civic), and it isn't cut. And then of course there are a load of daily drivers as well, and only one of them have ever had any sort of problems with their manifolds, and that wasn't even related to the flange... LoL..
Of course that is only my opinion based on what i have done with my own manifolds... i'm sure there will be differences of opinion
</TD></TR></TABLE>Whoa there buddy you are completely wrong. Cutting the flange has nothing to do with it being warped. Cutting the flange allows for it to expand properly under temperature, saving the welds from cracking. If you are using mild steel it is not 100% neccesary, but with stainless I would never not do it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by This One »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how come no one ever preps their material before Welding it together?
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good call, you see that a lot on here. must be in a crazy rush or something
</TD></TR></TABLE>
good call, you see that a lot on here. must be in a crazy rush or something
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dynasty-x-motorsport »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I want to do something similar but it will be a little more complicated doing my 5 cyl.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I want to do something similar but it will be a little more complicated doing my 5 cyl.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ButteroJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whoa there buddy you are completely wrong. Cutting the flange has nothing to do with it being warped. Cutting the flange allows for it to expand properly under temperature, saving the welds from cracking. If you are using mild steel it is not 100% neccesary, but with stainless I would never not do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>beat me to it, i was about to post the same thing. The manifold looks like it's coming together good
are you tigging or stainless migging it?
are you tigging or stainless migging it?
lol, i think you guys expect a bit too much for a homemade project. As I already stated, time was very limitted since my car and all my equipments are at my parent's huge *** garage while i'm living in my own apartment 40 miniutes away. I'm only home on the weekend and that's all the time that I have. You could say I should have prep the material before I started TACKING, since nothing is welded on yet and yes I do plan on cleaning things up before the actual welding process. I made the biggest mistake and got a mig welder two months ago. So it's going to be ss migged, but I'm in the market for a tig so next mani is all going to be tigged. Thanks agin for all the constructive critisms.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ButteroJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whoa there buddy you are completely wrong. Cutting the flange has nothing to do with it being warped. Cutting the flange allows for it to expand properly under temperature, saving the welds from cracking. If you are using mild steel it is not 100% neccesary, but with stainless I would never not do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>And i think you're wrong (don'cha just love opinions? LoL)... there is no real reason to cut the flanges that i've seen... Now, all of our stuff is done with Mild Steel flanges, not Stainless.. i do stagger the hole sizes in the flange, but i've watched a manifold that had a warped flange leak like no tomorrow, and then cut the flange between the runners, and it sealed flat, because the runners could flex (i had this theory, and i tested it, and proved it to myself)..
Dunno "Buddy", but also, how many of these things have you made, and on what cars? Or are you just taking others' words for it? My experience proves otherwise to me... And so i'll stick to my opinion, and you can always stick to yours, but if the care/time is taken to machine the flange flat after welding, then cutting the runners isn't needed (imho), because the flange will sit flat.
Dunno "Buddy", but also, how many of these things have you made, and on what cars? Or are you just taking others' words for it? My experience proves otherwise to me... And so i'll stick to my opinion, and you can always stick to yours, but if the care/time is taken to machine the flange flat after welding, then cutting the runners isn't needed (imho), because the flange will sit flat.
Correct -> <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ButteroJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whoa there buddy you are completely wrong. Cutting the flange has nothing to do with it being warped. Cutting the flange allows for it to expand properly under temperature, saving the welds from cracking. If you are using mild steel it is not 100% neccesary, but with stainless I would never not do it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You cut the flanges on stainless steel manifolds to leave some room for expansion.
You cut the flanges on stainless steel manifolds to leave some room for expansion.










