I'm planing to do a drum to disk brake conversion on my 88' CRX Si. Now I know the 90' - 91' Si's had them so will that just bolt up on my car? I also heard that you can get a 1st gen integra's brakes and put it on a crx. Thanks for any insight

 

I took the whole rear assembly off a 2000 gsr and it bolted right up on my 89 hatch.You'll need the e-brake cables as well. The prop valve is also recommended, when i searched I found a couple of useful posts on this topic. Good Luck ( If you have any questions i'll be glad to help just pm me)

 

Get the complete trailing arms with rotors, calipers, etc. and E-brake cables from:

1990-91 Civic or CRX Si
1990-93 Integra
1994-01 Integra

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Clash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get the complete trailing arms with rotors, calipers, etc. and E-brake cables from:

1990-91 Civic or CRX Si
1990-93 Integra
1994-01 Integra</TD></TR></TABLE>

wouldnt it be easier just to say 1990-2001 Integra?

 

Some advice for the install.

Do not use 90-93 teg compensator arms and lower control arms. The DA compensator arms are about 1" longer than the crx compensator arm. Using DA compensator arms will create a toe in problem.
Rear calipers do not get pushed in with a c-clamp. The rear caliper piston must be turned with a large screwdriver until it bottoms out.

Also get a 10mm flare nut wrench to disconnect the brake lines.

 

wats up before i say anythin HAPPY NEW YEAR 2 every 1 lol.. still drunk ~
i wanted 2 no if u think a 92 rear ls disk breaks would fit on my 96 ek9 ... (hatch dx) let me no cuz i am buyin so many stuff for it .. and i just orderd brembo big break kit for it and i am not even sure if they fit.. thanx alot.. happy new year.. dont drink and drive lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Some advice for the install.

Do not use 90-93 teg compensator arms and lower control arms. The DA compensator arms are about 1" longer than the crx compensator arm. Using DA compensator arms will create a toe in problem.
Rear calipers do not get pushed in with a c-clamp. The rear caliper piston must be turned with a large screwdriver until it bottoms out.

Also get a 10mm flare nut wrench to disconnect the brake lines.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Same thing apply for a 91 hatckback as well

 

i was wondering if you can put the type r 5 lug conversion on instead of the regular integ suspension

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BiG Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was wondering if you can put the type r 5 lug conversion on instead of the regular integ suspension</TD></TR></TABLE>

You can and its been done, do a search cause I dont remember what you need to do, I think I remember something about da tie rods in the front?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BiG Chris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i was wondering if you can put the type r 5 lug conversion on instead of the regular integ suspension</TD></TR></TABLE>

the rear is a direct bolt up but to do the front you need a little machine work.

http://battlecat.8m.com/ITR%20...A.htm

 

thanks guys ill do the search

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GearDownCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm planing to do a drum to disk brake conversion on my 88' CRX Si. Now I know the 90' - 91' Si's had them so will that just bolt up on my car? I also heard that you can get a 1st gen integra's brakes and put it on a crx. Thanks for any insight</TD></TR></TABLE>


Oh man, the '88 rear suspension is so sweet the way it is. It's one of the reasons I chose the '88 in the first place because the rear drums are so light and the shoes last forever. Sorry, I couldn't help but throw my $0.02 in.

 

Do you need to replace the master cylinder with a teg unit too?

 

91 crx complete suspension-91 and up integra complete suspension

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by travis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh man, the '88 rear suspension is so sweet the way it is. It's one of the reasons I chose the '88 in the first place because the rear drums are so light and the shoes last forever. Sorry, I couldn't help but throw my $0.02 in. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Perhaps I didn't read the whole thread but you can have the rear disc brake setup and keep the 88 rear suspension.. The mystery behind the 88 si suspension is simply the LCA's.. They are Open Eyelet style LCA's.

I am selling a complete rear disc swap from a 1990 CRX si and for an additional price I'll also throw in the 1988 Si rear LCA so you can have the best of both worlds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roadie_jay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you need to replace the master cylinder with a teg unit too?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The teg unit (I believe) is the same size as the crx unit in terms of rear disc size.
You do not need to change your master cylinder AT ALL. You will want the 40/40 proportioning valve which regulates pressure for a 4 wheel disc brake setup.

They only reason to get a new MC is to get a bigger one and this is for DECREASED PEDAL EFFORT... it won't make you stop faster it just means you don't have to push on the pedal as hard.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Perhaps I didn't read the whole thread but you can have the rear disc brake setup and keep the 88 rear suspension.. The mystery behind the 88 si suspension is simply the LCA's.. They are Open Eyelet style LCA's.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's only half true. The rear lower control arms don't have anything to do with the passive rear steering. The "mystery" (which really isn't that mysterious) is the attachment point of the frontmost suspension mounts on the body itself. You are correct, however, that you can keep this characteristic after changing parts. However, my preference for the '88 rears is both the additional bump steer under body roll AND the rear drums, which I greatly prefer. Again, my $0.02

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by travis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The "mystery" (which really isn't that mysterious) is the attachment point of the frontmost suspension mounts on the body itself. You are correct, however, that you can keep this characteristic after changing parts. However, my preference for the '88 rears is both the additional bump steer under body roll AND the rear drums, which I greatly prefer. Again, my $0.02</TD></TR></TABLE>

What frontmost part? Where the trailing arm bolts up to the body? I have a 1988 CRX si that I did a rear disc swap on and I kept 88 LCA but I noticed that everything else was the same. Othere than the LCA's.. NOTHING was different.. what am I missing?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by roadie_jay &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you need to replace the master cylinder with a teg unit too?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You don't need to, but if you do I suggest you replace the Brake booster as well, and get the bigger brakes (teg brakes) up front.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What frontmost part? Where the trailing arm bolts up to the body? I have a 1988 CRX si that I did a rear disc swap on and I kept 88 LCA but I noticed that everything else was the same. Othere than the LCA's.. NOTHING was different.. what am I missing?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The difference is where the compensator arm bolts to the body. The mount on the body is in a different location. It's not a parts you can change.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by travis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the rear drums are so light and the shoes last forever.</TD></TR></TABLE>Since 84-7 HF aluminum drums can be used on any other 84-7 car with either the HF backing plate, or 88-91 backing plates.... has anyone tried them on a later car? It'd be an easy way to save even more weight, with slightly better cooling to boot .

One more thing, either 90-91 Civic Si's didn't get rear disks stock, or some jerk swapped drums onto my car.

 

Get the bigger master cylinder. My 88 CRX Si had the rear converted to disc before I bought it. I am putting on the 91 EX master cylinder because it is a bigger bore. The pedal travel is too long and pedal feel is too mushy if you don't change the master cylinder. Pedal feels crappy. As to getting bigger brakes if you want the bling then go for it. As for stopping power on the street you don't need it. I am running the rear disc conversion and the stock front rotors on a H1 prepped B18c car although it does have a stripped interior but did get a full cage added on weight. If you are going to track the car duct your front rotors first to see if you can keep them cool enough (so far from what I can tell my rotors while getting hot are not toasting and neither is the pads or fluids).

Barry H.