autotrader R you serious
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autotrader R you serious
For the past year ,I've been reading many topics and I appreciate all the information and answers from the knowlegdeable members. I have been saving my money to purchase a 2000 type r (blk). To all the members with the longest time here at H-T, would you seriously by an R at the recent prices? Knowing and applying all your experiences with your type r would you buy at todays prices?thank you in advance.
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Re: autotrader R you serious (55rezntogofst)
you buy it for more, and you sell it for more... what are you after? sure, you can hook up other hondas and have it very nice for less or same price as itr.. but what are you after? i can't comment if price is reasonable or not because i'm not buying itr.
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From: Aye BaY BaY, california, usa
Re: autotrader R you serious (55rezntogofst)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 55rezntogofst »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the past year ,I've been reading many topics and I appreciate all the information and answers from the knowlegdeable members. I have been saving my money to purchase a 2000 type r (blk). To all the members with the longest time here at H-T, would you seriously by an R at the recent prices? Knowing and applying all your experiences with your type r would you buy at todays prices?thank you in advance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
DUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! What?
DUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! What?
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 10,399
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From: Chicagoland, IL
Re: autotrader R you serious (55rezntogofst)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 55rezntogofst »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Knowing and applying all your experiences with your type r would you buy at todays prices?</TD></TR></TABLE>
No.
ITR's are stolen too often, underpowered, and the prices are too inflated. I always thought the prices people were getting for them were ridiculous. There's no way a 7 year old Honda should retain 2/3rds of its value.
The only "bargains" out there are boosted/modified cars, where you're essentially getting 10K in mods for free.
I'd buy another one, new, for $23K again. It might be the cheapest way to hang with M3's etc. on the track, and have a streetable new car.
-Chris
No.
ITR's are stolen too often, underpowered, and the prices are too inflated. I always thought the prices people were getting for them were ridiculous. There's no way a 7 year old Honda should retain 2/3rds of its value.
The only "bargains" out there are boosted/modified cars, where you're essentially getting 10K in mods for free.
I'd buy another one, new, for $23K again. It might be the cheapest way to hang with M3's etc. on the track, and have a streetable new car.
-Chris
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: autotrader R you serious (55rezntogofst)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 55rezntogofst »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">RJ, i am asking would you pay $20,000 to 25,000 for a used R with 60,000> miles?</TD></TR></TABLE>
**** no. I paid $16k for mine last year with 63k miles on it. I'll be selling mine this spring, ~76k miles, looking to get $15k.
**** no. I paid $16k for mine last year with 63k miles on it. I'll be selling mine this spring, ~76k miles, looking to get $15k.
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From: Chicagoland, IL
Re: autotrader R you serious (.RJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
**** no. I paid $16k for mine last year with 63k miles on it. I'll be selling mine this spring, ~76k miles, looking to get $15k.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd buy his car, but I wouldn't trust a guy with only 59 posts.
**** no. I paid $16k for mine last year with 63k miles on it. I'll be selling mine this spring, ~76k miles, looking to get $15k.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'd buy his car, but I wouldn't trust a guy with only 59 posts.
Suspetise...
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 12,287
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From: Burninating the peasants yo
Re: autotrader R you serious (.RJ)
RJ's car is good stuff, well maintained and not TOO riced out 
$20K for an R other than brand spankin' new is a ripoff. However, a nicely kept one for $14K or $15K isn't a bad deal at all.
$20K for an R other than brand spankin' new is a ripoff. However, a nicely kept one for $14K or $15K isn't a bad deal at all.
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From: Southern California, U.S.A.
Re: autotrader R you serious (55rezntogofst)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 55rezntogofst »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would you buy at todays prices?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes-if I had not already. I did and am happy with the purchase.
Yes-if I had not already. I did and am happy with the purchase.
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From: Chicago
Re: autotrader R you serious (55rezntogofst)
I'm not sure what the question really is.
A used ITR sells for what it sells for. You can get one with average to high miles (50-80K) for around $16-18K. You can get one with higher miles than that for less money than that. You can get one with lower miles than that for more money than that. Your money, your choice.
As for Autotrader, keep in mind that the listings there show asking prices, not the actual price you might end up buying it for. Most people (dealers and private parties alike) list a car for a few grand more than they expect to sell it for, to allow themselves some room to negotiate downward. If you see one that you like, but the price seems too high, make an offer. Worst thing that happens is they say no, no big deal - but you might get the car for a fair price that way.
Is it worth it? Sure, if that's what you want. As Chris F notes, prices of used ITRs are relatively high. But so what? They're likely to remain relatively high. Sure, it's a lot of money to spend on a used car. But you'll get it back when you sell it. Look at .RJ, buying one and selling it for only a grand less a year later. Not a bad deal in anybody's book.
A used ITR sells for what it sells for. You can get one with average to high miles (50-80K) for around $16-18K. You can get one with higher miles than that for less money than that. You can get one with lower miles than that for more money than that. Your money, your choice.
As for Autotrader, keep in mind that the listings there show asking prices, not the actual price you might end up buying it for. Most people (dealers and private parties alike) list a car for a few grand more than they expect to sell it for, to allow themselves some room to negotiate downward. If you see one that you like, but the price seems too high, make an offer. Worst thing that happens is they say no, no big deal - but you might get the car for a fair price that way.
Is it worth it? Sure, if that's what you want. As Chris F notes, prices of used ITRs are relatively high. But so what? They're likely to remain relatively high. Sure, it's a lot of money to spend on a used car. But you'll get it back when you sell it. Look at .RJ, buying one and selling it for only a grand less a year later. Not a bad deal in anybody's book.
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Joined: May 2001
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From: IL
Re: autotrader R you serious (.RJ)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Retaining a high resale value was one of the reasons I bought the car - smart decision, as E36 M3 values keep tanking..... </TD></TR></TABLE>
You said "I" and "smart" in the same sentence....!
You said "I" and "smart" in the same sentence....!
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From: Houston, Texas, USA
Re: autotrader R you serious (Wai)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You said "I" and "smart" in the same sentence....! </TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>
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From: BoilingSprings, PA, United States
Re: autotrader R you serious (55rezntogofst)
I searched on ITRCA, Autotrader and honda-tech.com You can typically find 6-8 for sale within 200 miles of your location. What I looked for is a stock car that has had no mods on it. Get detailed pictures, talk to the current owner on the phone and ask for copies of service records. The next step is to go see the car and run a car-fax report on the VIN. Take a note book with you and create a check list with what I list below. Check each thing off as you go. Write the asking price at the top of the page too. I'll explain that towards the end.
Things to look for:
Make sure all of the stickers with the VIN are on all of the fenders, doors and hatch. Look over the door jams for signs of overspray. Check out all of the bolts that you can see. Many of the body panel bolts are painted and if they were removed they will be scratched. Make sure the engine bay is relatively clean and that all of the wires and hoses are in good condition. Check out the underside of the car too. Look for any rub marks on the bottom of the car to make sure it wasn't beaten over bumps. Inspect the bushings on the suspension. (YES-take the wheels off the car while you are checking it out) If they don't want to let you then it is time to walk away from that particular car. When the car is up in the air check the wheel bearings, brake surfaces, brake lines and check the wheel wells for overspray. Also take the spark plugs out of the engine (while it's still cold) and check them out. If they are really white or super black and fuzzy gently put them back in and leave. The plugs should be a dark brownish color. That shows good internal sealing and that the engine is not running rich or lean. Also make sure the engine code is correct and the transmission is stamped with LSD. Check out the tires too. Look for wear in the inside and outside of the tire. This is a tell tale sign that the car may need an alignment. Ask about service on the car too. If it is near 55k or so ask if the timing belt and water pump have been replaced. If not, this is an expense that you will have to incur in a short 5k miles or so.
Now it's time for the test drive. Start the car and make sure the radio is off. DO NOT TURN ON THE RADIO DURING THE TEST DRIVE! You need to hear everything. Listen for clicking noises under accelleration and turning. If you hear them the CV joints are bad. (check) Make sure VTEC kicks in around 5,700 rpm. You will notice this as it is an obvious kick in the butt. Listen for detonation. It sounds like a diesel engine. If you hear that noise and the plugs looked fugly, leave. Next check the braking. You need to get up to 60 or so and mash the brake pedal hard enough to activate the anti-lock brakes to make sure they work. Make sure the LSD works in the car. To test it go around a 90 degree turn and get on the gas hard. The steering wheel should pull a bit. It will feel like it is trying to straighten itself out. Listen for jiggling sound, rattles, warbling noises and try to pinpoint any noises you hear. When you get back from you test drive go back to the areas you heard noises come from and re-inspect them.
Finally get you checklist out. Look at the asking price and look at what your checklist is is showing you. If they were asking 20k for a 2001 ITR with 55k miles on it start talking to the current owner. You'll invariably have to put some $ into the car to make sure it is running in tip top shape. Whittle the price down to about 16k. If the car has less miles and is in superb condition you can go for 17k. The bottom line is to be fair to yourself (mostly) and the seller.
When you get the car home you SHOULD do a valve job on it. Replace the plugs, wires, and distributor cap/rotor. Change the oil and filter. Put in a new air filter (K&N is what I recommend). If the timing belt needs replaced then go ahead and get that done along with a new water pump. If the miles are higher you should get the oil pump replaced too. Also make sure you get the car on an alignment rack and make sure it is straight. Check out the tires and make sure there is plenty of tread left; otherwise you'll need to replace them.
Dave
hope that helps ya!
Things to look for:
Make sure all of the stickers with the VIN are on all of the fenders, doors and hatch. Look over the door jams for signs of overspray. Check out all of the bolts that you can see. Many of the body panel bolts are painted and if they were removed they will be scratched. Make sure the engine bay is relatively clean and that all of the wires and hoses are in good condition. Check out the underside of the car too. Look for any rub marks on the bottom of the car to make sure it wasn't beaten over bumps. Inspect the bushings on the suspension. (YES-take the wheels off the car while you are checking it out) If they don't want to let you then it is time to walk away from that particular car. When the car is up in the air check the wheel bearings, brake surfaces, brake lines and check the wheel wells for overspray. Also take the spark plugs out of the engine (while it's still cold) and check them out. If they are really white or super black and fuzzy gently put them back in and leave. The plugs should be a dark brownish color. That shows good internal sealing and that the engine is not running rich or lean. Also make sure the engine code is correct and the transmission is stamped with LSD. Check out the tires too. Look for wear in the inside and outside of the tire. This is a tell tale sign that the car may need an alignment. Ask about service on the car too. If it is near 55k or so ask if the timing belt and water pump have been replaced. If not, this is an expense that you will have to incur in a short 5k miles or so.
Now it's time for the test drive. Start the car and make sure the radio is off. DO NOT TURN ON THE RADIO DURING THE TEST DRIVE! You need to hear everything. Listen for clicking noises under accelleration and turning. If you hear them the CV joints are bad. (check) Make sure VTEC kicks in around 5,700 rpm. You will notice this as it is an obvious kick in the butt. Listen for detonation. It sounds like a diesel engine. If you hear that noise and the plugs looked fugly, leave. Next check the braking. You need to get up to 60 or so and mash the brake pedal hard enough to activate the anti-lock brakes to make sure they work. Make sure the LSD works in the car. To test it go around a 90 degree turn and get on the gas hard. The steering wheel should pull a bit. It will feel like it is trying to straighten itself out. Listen for jiggling sound, rattles, warbling noises and try to pinpoint any noises you hear. When you get back from you test drive go back to the areas you heard noises come from and re-inspect them.
Finally get you checklist out. Look at the asking price and look at what your checklist is is showing you. If they were asking 20k for a 2001 ITR with 55k miles on it start talking to the current owner. You'll invariably have to put some $ into the car to make sure it is running in tip top shape. Whittle the price down to about 16k. If the car has less miles and is in superb condition you can go for 17k. The bottom line is to be fair to yourself (mostly) and the seller.
When you get the car home you SHOULD do a valve job on it. Replace the plugs, wires, and distributor cap/rotor. Change the oil and filter. Put in a new air filter (K&N is what I recommend). If the timing belt needs replaced then go ahead and get that done along with a new water pump. If the miles are higher you should get the oil pump replaced too. Also make sure you get the car on an alignment rack and make sure it is straight. Check out the tires and make sure there is plenty of tread left; otherwise you'll need to replace them.
Dave
hope that helps ya!
ProFunction/GT Motoring
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,930
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From: IL
Re: autotrader R you serious (innocenti)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by innocenti »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ask for copies of service records.</TD></TR></TABLE>
A lot of Type R owners do the regular maintenance work ourselves. Just don't be surprised if the seller tells you there's no record. My car has only touched the dealership floor once for maintenance.
A lot of Type R owners do the regular maintenance work ourselves. Just don't be surprised if the seller tells you there's no record. My car has only touched the dealership floor once for maintenance.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 9,684
Likes: 1
Re: autotrader R you serious (innocenti)
Originally Posted by innocenti
I searched on ITRCA, Autotrader and honda-tech.com You can typically find 6-8 for sale within 200 miles of your location. What I looked for is a stock car that has had no mods on it. Get detailed pictures, talk to the current owner on the phone and ask for copies of service records. The next step is to go see the car and run a car-fax report on the VIN. Take a note book with you and create a check list with what I list below. Check each thing off as you go. Write the asking price at the top of the page too. I'll explain that towards the end.
Things to look for:
Make sure all of the stickers with the VIN are on all of the fenders, doors and hatch. Look over the door jams for signs of overspray. Check out all of the bolts that you can see. Many of the body panel bolts are painted and if they were removed they will be scratched. Make sure the engine bay is relatively clean and that all of the wires and hoses are in good condition. Check out the underside of the car too. Look for any rub marks on the bottom of the car to make sure it wasn't beaten over bumps. Inspect the bushings on the suspension. (YES-take the wheels off the car while you are checking it out) If they don't want to let you then it is time to walk away from that particular car. When the car is up in the air check the wheel bearings, brake surfaces, brake lines and check the wheel wells for overspray. Also take the spark plugs out of the engine (while it's still cold) and check them out. If they are really white or super black and fuzzy gently put them back in and leave. The plugs should be a dark brownish color. That shows good internal sealing and that the engine is not running rich or lean. Also make sure the engine code is correct and the transmission is stamped with LSD. Check out the tires too. Look for wear in the inside and outside of the tire. This is a tell tale sign that the car may need an alignment. Ask about service on the car too. If it is near 55k or so ask if the timing belt and water pump have been replaced. If not, this is an expense that you will have to incur in a short 5k miles or so.
Now it's time for the test drive. Start the car and make sure the radio is off. DO NOT TURN ON THE RADIO DURING THE TEST DRIVE! You need to hear everything. Listen for clicking noises under accelleration and turning. If you hear them the CV joints are bad. (check) Make sure VTEC kicks in around 5,700 rpm. You will notice this as it is an obvious kick in the butt. Listen for detonation. It sounds like a diesel engine. If you hear that noise and the plugs looked fugly, leave. Next check the braking. You need to get up to 60 or so and mash the brake pedal hard enough to activate the anti-lock brakes to make sure they work. Make sure the LSD works in the car. To test it go around a 90 degree turn and get on the gas hard. The steering wheel should pull a bit. It will feel like it is trying to straighten itself out. Listen for jiggling sound, rattles, warbling noises and try to pinpoint any noises you hear. When you get back from you test drive go back to the areas you heard noises come from and re-inspect them.
Finally get you checklist out. Look at the asking price and look at what your checklist is is showing you. If they were asking 20k for a 2001 ITR with 55k miles on it start talking to the current owner. You'll invariably have to put some $ into the car to make sure it is running in tip top shape. Whittle the price down to about 16k. If the car has less miles and is in superb condition you can go for 17k. The bottom line is to be fair to yourself (mostly) and the seller.
When you get the car home you SHOULD do a valve job on it. Replace the plugs, wires, and distributor cap/rotor. Change the oil and filter. Put in a new air filter (K&N is what I recommend). If the timing belt needs replaced then go ahead and get that done along with a new water pump. If the miles are higher you should get the oil pump replaced too. Also make sure you get the car on an alignment rack and make sure it is straight. Check out the tires and make sure there is plenty of tread left; otherwise you'll need to replace them.
Dave
hope that helps ya!
Things to look for:
Make sure all of the stickers with the VIN are on all of the fenders, doors and hatch. Look over the door jams for signs of overspray. Check out all of the bolts that you can see. Many of the body panel bolts are painted and if they were removed they will be scratched. Make sure the engine bay is relatively clean and that all of the wires and hoses are in good condition. Check out the underside of the car too. Look for any rub marks on the bottom of the car to make sure it wasn't beaten over bumps. Inspect the bushings on the suspension. (YES-take the wheels off the car while you are checking it out) If they don't want to let you then it is time to walk away from that particular car. When the car is up in the air check the wheel bearings, brake surfaces, brake lines and check the wheel wells for overspray. Also take the spark plugs out of the engine (while it's still cold) and check them out. If they are really white or super black and fuzzy gently put them back in and leave. The plugs should be a dark brownish color. That shows good internal sealing and that the engine is not running rich or lean. Also make sure the engine code is correct and the transmission is stamped with LSD. Check out the tires too. Look for wear in the inside and outside of the tire. This is a tell tale sign that the car may need an alignment. Ask about service on the car too. If it is near 55k or so ask if the timing belt and water pump have been replaced. If not, this is an expense that you will have to incur in a short 5k miles or so.
Now it's time for the test drive. Start the car and make sure the radio is off. DO NOT TURN ON THE RADIO DURING THE TEST DRIVE! You need to hear everything. Listen for clicking noises under accelleration and turning. If you hear them the CV joints are bad. (check) Make sure VTEC kicks in around 5,700 rpm. You will notice this as it is an obvious kick in the butt. Listen for detonation. It sounds like a diesel engine. If you hear that noise and the plugs looked fugly, leave. Next check the braking. You need to get up to 60 or so and mash the brake pedal hard enough to activate the anti-lock brakes to make sure they work. Make sure the LSD works in the car. To test it go around a 90 degree turn and get on the gas hard. The steering wheel should pull a bit. It will feel like it is trying to straighten itself out. Listen for jiggling sound, rattles, warbling noises and try to pinpoint any noises you hear. When you get back from you test drive go back to the areas you heard noises come from and re-inspect them.
Finally get you checklist out. Look at the asking price and look at what your checklist is is showing you. If they were asking 20k for a 2001 ITR with 55k miles on it start talking to the current owner. You'll invariably have to put some $ into the car to make sure it is running in tip top shape. Whittle the price down to about 16k. If the car has less miles and is in superb condition you can go for 17k. The bottom line is to be fair to yourself (mostly) and the seller.
When you get the car home you SHOULD do a valve job on it. Replace the plugs, wires, and distributor cap/rotor. Change the oil and filter. Put in a new air filter (K&N is what I recommend). If the timing belt needs replaced then go ahead and get that done along with a new water pump. If the miles are higher you should get the oil pump replaced too. Also make sure you get the car on an alignment rack and make sure it is straight. Check out the tires and make sure there is plenty of tread left; otherwise you'll need to replace them.
Dave
hope that helps ya!
If you think they will let you beat the living **** out of the car to do your "Testing" you may also have something coming to you.
i agree if you want to inspect the car inside and out, but i would just ask them to take it to a shop with you, and ask the shop if you can do a visual inspection all around the car. most shops will not care.
your entire post is useful information, but how useful is it in reality? i can not think of one instance where a guy would let me do all this, while checking out a car.
H-T Order of Merit
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 23,478
Likes: 2
From: Chicago
Re: autotrader R you serious (Wai)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Wai »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A lot of Type R owners do the regular maintenance work ourselves. Just don't be surprised if the seller tells you there's no record. My car has only touched the dealership floor once for maintenance.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Anyone who is doing his own maintenance work would be well advised to (1) make a record of all the work done on the car, with dates next to each of the services performed, and (2) save all the receipts from the parts purchases.
Anyone who is doing his own maintenance work would be well advised to (1) make a record of all the work done on the car, with dates next to each of the services performed, and (2) save all the receipts from the parts purchases.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: RIP Craig Jones
Re: autotrader R you serious (255.255.255.255)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 255.255.255.255 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if you think the majority of type r owners are going to let you sit there, and take 10 hours of their time to do your home-brew version of a car inspection, you may find out that you will never buy a itr. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you know what you are doing, there's no reason I see that the seller wouldnt bring you the car, let you put it on stands, do a compression test, hook up an OBD-2 code reader, etc, etc before the sale.
Although my past few purchases I've had inspected by a dealer or independent shop because I dont have much time these days.
if you think the majority of type r owners are going to let you sit there, and take 10 hours of their time to do your home-brew version of a car inspection, you may find out that you will never buy a itr. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you know what you are doing, there's no reason I see that the seller wouldnt bring you the car, let you put it on stands, do a compression test, hook up an OBD-2 code reader, etc, etc before the sale.
Although my past few purchases I've had inspected by a dealer or independent shop because I dont have much time these days.
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