Do the Toda A's "like" compression, like the Toda B's do?
I always hear that the Toda B's love compression and I think it is because of the overlap of these cams .I hear the B's need a high compression setup to really shine.My question is do the Toda A's perform more favorably in a high compression atmosphere like the B's do?
All cams will "like" compression. Toda A's can run great on stock compression on a B18C5. Some of the wilder cams like toda C's and Jun III's will almost require bumped compression.
I just recently installed Toda A cams into my ITR (Thanks Dan! If you are reading this) and they are a big improvement over the stock ITR cams. They pull like a **** up top.
I just recently installed Toda A cams into my ITR (Thanks Dan! If you are reading this) and they are a big improvement over the stock ITR cams. They pull like a **** up top.
I think for any of those Todas compression should be bumped up to at least 11.5
12.5 max for street use and street gas though.
I'm running 11.8 compression with my B's
Got mad midrange pull and crazie top end!
I'll be dyno'ing soon.
12.5 max for street use and street gas though.
I'm running 11.8 compression with my B's
Got mad midrange pull and crazie top end!
I'll be dyno'ing soon.
Spec A cams have stock primary and secondary lobes so the idle is stock.
Regarding the compression thing.
Its not that Bs and Cs LIKE compression, they NEED compression.
As dont need it as much because they dont have as much overlap as
the Bs and Cs do. Anytime a cam has a lot of overlap then the dynamic
compression ratio will go down.
Regarding the compression thing.
Its not that Bs and Cs LIKE compression, they NEED compression.
As dont need it as much because they dont have as much overlap as
the Bs and Cs do. Anytime a cam has a lot of overlap then the dynamic
compression ratio will go down.
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Spec A cams have stock primary and secondary lobes so the idle is stock.
Regarding the compression thing.
Its not that Bs and Cs LIKE compression, they NEED compression.
As dont need it as much because they dont have as much overlap as
the Bs and Cs do. Anytime a cam has a lot of overlap then the dynamic
compression ratio will go down.
Regarding the compression thing.
Its not that Bs and Cs LIKE compression, they NEED compression.
As dont need it as much because they dont have as much overlap as
the Bs and Cs do. Anytime a cam has a lot of overlap then the dynamic
compression ratio will go down.
Think the difference between the toda A and Ctr intake cam is worth the wait of saving up?
It depends on what you want out of your motor
THey are definitely an upgrade over the CTR/ITR setup.
For a mild street cam they are definitely the best selection imo.
THey are definitely an upgrade over the CTR/ITR setup.
For a mild street cam they are definitely the best selection imo.
hm..if my deal doesn't work out with the CTR cams, you've convinced me to save up for some toda A's.
My only problem is stock GSR compression isn't too high. I can still benefit but not as much. Hope the A's are smoggable?
My only problem is stock GSR compression isn't too high. I can still benefit but not as much. Hope the A's are smoggable?
Just my opinion, but if you're going to pull the head anyway, put some CTR pistons in there! 
Jason- who is not sure if a GS-R w/CTR pistons would require a thicker head gasket or not...

Jason- who is not sure if a GS-R w/CTR pistons would require a thicker head gasket or not...
I would NOT change the pistons w/o pulling the block and honing the walls.
For that matter, i wouldnt change the pistons w.o going to overbore.
And while you are at it, replace all the bearings n stuff.
All of a sudden its not so cheap is it....
For that matter, i wouldnt change the pistons w.o going to overbore.
And while you are at it, replace all the bearings n stuff.
All of a sudden its not so cheap is it....
Buddy of mine made the mistake of not going overbore and damn....that thing was fun for about 2weeks till it consumed about a quart or more in a week.....
Do it right the 1st time..... although many people have had success replacing the pistons without popping the block....I know I would sleep better if I pulled the whole sucka out and redid it bottoms up....!
Do it right the 1st time..... although many people have had success replacing the pistons without popping the block....I know I would sleep better if I pulled the whole sucka out and redid it bottoms up....!
Damn Steve, I was only making a suggestion 
Jason- who will make sure to go into more detail, especially when sgt is posting to the same thread...

Jason- who will make sure to go into more detail, especially when sgt is posting to the same thread...
I love how some people (not insinuating, just observing about some people I have talked to) make it seem like cams are just a simple bolt on. Drop them in, some dyno tunning here, little wrenching there, and you are done.
Doing a cam job the right way is very expensive. Plus, I think as stated before, it's all about the install job. If they are installed properly it makes a world of difference.
Doing a cam job the right way is very expensive. Plus, I think as stated before, it's all about the install job. If they are installed properly it makes a world of difference.
I love how some people (not insinuating, just observing about some people I have talked to) make it seem like cams are just a simple bolt on. Drop them in, some dyno tunning here, little wrenching there, and you are done.
Doing a cam job the right way is very expensive. Plus, I think as stated before, it's all about the install job. If they are installed properly it makes a world of difference.
Doing a cam job the right way is very expensive. Plus, I think as stated before, it's all about the install job. If they are installed properly it makes a world of difference.
that's why i charge 250 for cam install only
maybe i'm not charging ENOUGH.
$150.00 is usually fine for me.
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