LS Turbo Build PLEASE HELP!

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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 10:39 AM
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Default LS Turbo Build PLEASE HELP!

What up everybody? Just got a 92 LS motor the Monster Garage way......FREEBIE!!!
It's going to be rebuilt w/ a T3 I have in my garage and go into a 90 CRX.

I've never done a turbo before, and could use all the help that's available.

The Rex was stolen and stripped, so it most likely will be a track *****. So daily drivability isn't primarily important, but I would like to take it out once in a while for some street driving. So reliability is an issue.

Please hit me up folks. It's a blank canvas, I just picked out the brushes, the masterpiece has yet to begin.
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 10:53 AM
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Default Re: LS Turbo Build PLEASE HELP! (Bishop4G)

well if you want reliability on an LS turbo replace the rods. They're made of bamboo shoots, and you'll destroy them if you make it a track car.

You can safely rock around 8psi in a stock LS (peoplc will argue more and less) but safely I'd say 7-9 is about it on stock internals. You want to go higher you gotta start tearing it down.
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 11:33 AM
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Default Re: LS Turbo Build PLEASE HELP! (Bishop4G)

Well I dont agree with eumoria at all about the rods I broke 7 pistons in 2 stock ls motors running 20 psi never once did a rod fail on me. You can safely run 15psi on the motor with the right fuel and tunning. **** I ran 20 psi for a while I did 15 on a stock motor held for a while went to 17psi and it broke all 4 ring lands then I put in a new motor (new used motor) ran 20 psi for a while broke 3 ringlands then I put a piston and rod and ran 20 psi and sold the car going 12.2 and its still running mint so if you want to be reliable and your gonna rebuild it you might as well put in new pistons and rods or dont go over 15psi on the stock motor WITH GOOD TUNNING
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 11:40 AM
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Agreed. I think the piston ring lands will go WAY before the stock rods.

Click the link in my sig "EH2 | 92 Civic VX | Turbo B18A1 | Hondata" or the "[EH2]" one for my B18A1 turbo build.
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Old Dec 20, 2004 | 12:33 PM
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Default Re: (DaX)

Sorry I forgot to mention that the motor was pulled after spinning a bearing( or so I was told) .

The guy's wife hit a construction sign that had fallen in the street. It ripped the pan, and she drovewhere she needed to, then home, then told her husband. They put a new pan on it, but it only lasted 2 more days before it went out.

So I will be taking this from the ground up. I mostly just wanted the motor for the block and head, all internals are probably going bye-bye.

I will clean the motor and have it hot-tanked, then go from there.

I will start at the crank and work up, is the B17 a good crank to go with?

Anybody have an idea how much that costs?
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Old Dec 22, 2004 | 06:36 AM
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Default Re: (Bishop4G)

BUMP.

Thanks for the referal to your build DAX, but you kept the stock bottom end. I plan on doing a completely B&B bottom end, but don't know where to start.

Should I keep the stock crank or go w/ a b17 crank?

Are stock LS rods strong enough for 15+ PSI if they're shot-peened?

I know there has to be people here that've done a similar build....
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Old Dec 22, 2004 | 06:47 AM
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If you're building the bottom end and have a fair amount of money to spend, here's how I'd do it.

Send your block to Dan Benson for sleeving. Use new OEM or ALC bearings. Keep your stock LS crank and use Pauter rods and CP pistons of an appropriate compression ratio. In my opinion this will give you a near bulletproof bottom end for your goals.
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