everytime i go around a corner in my 90 crx si i get this clicking sound. i know that generally when you go around a corner and get that sound it means your axles are bad......here's the catch though: i jsut had both of my axles replaced within the past 2 months. i find it highly unlikely that they're bad already. i had them replaced at a shop i've been to before that does quality work. any idea what it might be? i'm seriously hoping it's not the axles again, but i have no idea what else it might be.

 

Were used/bad axles installed? I'd take it back to the shop since you just paid to have them fixed.

 

tie rod? i have the same problem on my passenger side,my friends crx had it was bad.mine isnt really all that noticable so im just going to leave it be.

 

you have to be a little more specific....
if you have a b16 swap or something and they used the wrong axels, then they could very well be Fed up already. if you have a stock d16 in there then maybe they replaced em with crappy ones or only did one side?? also, check your tie rods. an extremely worn tie rod end will also click when you turn and is wayyyy more dangerous than a bad axel.

 

mmm danger

 

I had a plastic piece in the wheel well come loose before. It hit the tire and made a clicking sound in right turns. Let's hope it's that simple.


Modified by eda6 at 9:25 PM 12/19/2004

 

okay, i'll clarify a bit.....it's a stock d16a6, the axles were brand new (bought them myself and took them to the shop), and they were the correct axles.

if it is the tie rods, will i be able to tell just by looking at them, or is something more involved? also, if it is in fact the tie rods, how difficult are they to replace? i have the money for the parts right now, but don't have the cash to have someone else do the repair.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90si-rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if it is the tie rods, will i be able to tell just by looking at them, or is something more involved? also, if it is in fact the tie rods, how difficult are they to replace?</TD></TR></TABLE>

My wheel shakes and I was looking at my tie rods today. They are the original tie rod. I shook the **** out it, side to side and back and forth. It seemed solid. Also check the rubber boots to see if they're cracked.

Is there a better way to check the tie-rods?

 

it could be a balljoint too! best thing to do bring it back to the shop and have them look at it or jact up the front of the car like eda6 said move the tire side to side for checking the tierod and up/down for checking the balljoint. good luck man

 

cool, i'll check that out tomorrow. still need to know how difficult it is to replace tie rods if that does turn out to be the problem. and while you're at it.....how difficult are ball joints to replace?

the other problem i've noticed recently (and i have no idea if this is related), is when i slow down, if i have the car in neutral, the front end feels like it's about to shake apart. if i have the car in gear (doesn't matter which one), and only put the car in neutral when i'm almost stopped, it doesn't shake. like i said, i have no idea if this is related or not, or how long it's been going on, but if it is related and it helps narrow down what my other problem may be, let me know. thanks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bee17hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it could be a balljoint too! best thing to do bring it back to the shop and have them look at it or jact up the front of the car like eda6 said move the tire side to side for checking the tierod and up/down for checking the balljoint. good luck man </TD></TR></TABLE>

The tire was off. The above was done to the tie-rod itself. For the ball joint do the same thing while wearing some gloves. Also do the same to the axles. All should be solid.

maybe you can change the balljoint w/o removing the knuckle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The tire was off. The above was done to the tie-rod itself. For the ball joint do the same thing while wearing some gloves. Also do the same to the axles. All should be solid.

maybe you can change the balljoint w/o removing the knuckle. </TD></TR></TABLE>

after looking at that link, it sounds like ball joints are a bitch. got a time estimate on how long they generally take someone who's never changed them before? can't afford a lot of down time with the car no matter what the problem is since it's my daily driver.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90si-rex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

after looking at that link, it sounds like ball joints are a bitch. got a time estimate on how long they generally take someone who's never changed them before? can't afford a lot of down time with the car no matter what the problem is since it's my daily driver.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Takes me less than one hour. I remove the knuckle. Put it in a vise. Snap ring pliers are needed to remove the circlip. Spay it with some "nuts off". Get a 4lb hammer. Bang it a few times. It falls out. Get a ball joint press and install the new one.

I can't estimate how long it will take you. You need a torque wrench and cotter pins to put it back together.

I'm going to try the craftsman ratchet trick next time i have to change a balljoint.

 

axles.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pinoyboiWONDER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">axles.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thank you captain obvious

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pinoyboiWONDER &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">axles.</TD></TR></TABLE>

did you read the whole post, or just the title? i know it could be the axles......i'm looking for other possible causes since the axles are brand new.

 

even tho they are brand new dont mean a single thing... there is something that is called manufacturers defect... that is why there is warranty on them... go bring it back and say its clicking and exchange them...

 

what i think is theres a counter weight on your front suspension connexted to a baseball card and everytime you turn it rubs against the inside of your spokes


j/k sounds to be axles if you think you can do it urself take one of the axles off and see if it has too much play, that or like 92integra_gs said take it back the shop has to warranty there work but then again they didnt supply the part you did

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eda6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Takes me less than one hour. I remove the knuckle. Put it in a vise. Snap ring pliers are needed to remove the circlip. Spay it with some "nuts off". Get a 4lb hammer. Bang it a few times. It falls out. Get a ball joint press and install the new one.
I can't estimate how long it will take you. You need a torque wrench and cotter pins to put it back together. </TD></TR></TABLE>

EDA6:
Thanks for posting this info.
Question: What kind of ball joint press should I buy? I've never used one before, and want to make sure I buy the correct one.
I'm ordering my new balljoints tonight. I've already got snap ring pliers, hammer, torque wrench and cotter pings.
Thanks & sorry to kinda hijack this thread.

 

i paid a bit more attention to the sound it was making today when i drove the car, and it's less like a clicking sound, and more like a knocking sound. and yes, i realize that even though the axles are brand new they could be bad already. i'm looking for other possible causes so that if/when i take it back to the shop to have them check, i can also say "hey, can you take a look at __________ too while you have the car up on the lift." i've found that when i take cars in to the shop i have to be very specific about what i want them to look at, because they seem to look at only what you ask them to look at (at least around here) without checking to see what else the problem might be if it isn't exactly what i ask them to look at. so that's why i'm asking what it might be instead of/in addition to the axles.

 

did anyone suggest CV joints yet? i didnt read everyones posts cause im lazy.

i have a 91 rex, and have had this happen before. i had crack the cv boot, and the grease went bye bye,...so i loooobed her back up, put a new boot on and yahtzee, no more clicky-clicky!

 

if your car is lowered its very possible you already tore a boot and killed the cv joints.... torn boot is the first step in them going to ****.. if it didn't happen when you first had them done i suspect it wasn't an installation error. If it does it one way but not the other its one CV joint.. It's really the only turn related knocking sound there is, anything else you wouldnt want to drive the car cuz it would shake.. that would be alignment..
Have axles looked at, ask them why they went bad so soon, and correct the issue.

 

cv's are connected to the axles

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SniperRCivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what i think is theres a counter weight on your front suspension connexted to a baseball card and everytime you turn it rubs against the inside of your spoke</TD></TR></TABLE>

I take my suggestion back. He knows best. LOL
get new axles buddy and don't tell us we're wrong again. cuz we're not
oh and another thing, learn to do it yourself and save yourself some money. Its not hard, in the time you spent reading and writing to this stupid thread you could have RTFM and learned to do i.

http://www.norcalcrx.org/library/ RTFM crx workshop manual. get it!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NikoZai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I take my suggestion back. He knows best. LOL
get new axles buddy and don't tell us we're wrong again. cuz we're not
oh and another thing, learn to do it yourself and save yourself some money. Its not hard, in the time you spent reading and writing to this stupid thread you could have RTFM and learned to do i.

http://www.norcalcrx.org/library/ RTFM crx workshop manual. get it!</TD></TR></TABLE>

1. already got a manual
2. already read it
3. didn't say anyone was wrong, just asking questions
4. my manual sucks, so i look to h-t for possible answers