reduce frame twist when cornering?
i have a 2000 GSR, it's got 22k miles and it squeaks like hell when i hit bumps due to hard cornering. i understand the root of this problem to be a weak frame. (compared to newer hondas, anyway) i believe installing a full roll cage in the car would help this, but then i'd have a full roll cage in my daily driver (which i'd rather not). one of the mustang freaks here suggested subframe connectors... is anyone here using them? if so, noticable improvement??
any replies are appreciated
.
any replies are appreciated
.
why dont you try some strut bars, lower tie bars and a 22mm ITR rear sway bar.....those will stiffen it up, but yeah....a full cage would help a lot too
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Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Formerly of SF moved to DFW and now back in SF, CA, USA
No need for a full on roll cage. Try the Neuspeed upper front strut bar, Larger rear sway bar, stiffer springs and shocks. Thoses alone helped me corner a lot better on the street and road track. An upper rear tie bar was helpful as well.
As for subframe connectors, I don;t think they have any for imports that I know of. I know they had them for my old '69 Camaro that could be found in the Jeg's or Summit catalog but I don't think any exist yet for imports unless you fab some and weld it on yourself. I think Benen Industries and Neuspeed make a couple lower front braces as well but they are a bit pricey. Good luck!
[Modified by Gee3, 5:14 PM 1/4/2002]
As for subframe connectors, I don;t think they have any for imports that I know of. I know they had them for my old '69 Camaro that could be found in the Jeg's or Summit catalog but I don't think any exist yet for imports unless you fab some and weld it on yourself. I think Benen Industries and Neuspeed make a couple lower front braces as well but they are a bit pricey. Good luck!
[Modified by Gee3, 5:14 PM 1/4/2002]
You can also go for a roll bar instead of a roll cage. I have one for safety reasons and let me tell you, no amount of strut bars and the like could compare with the stiffness of a roll bar. Yes, a roll cage would beat it I'm sure, but hey, I like to be able to get in and out of my car too. The car is a 94 GSR hatch. The roll bar is an Autopower Race Roll Bar.
Squeaks and rattles are probably not going to be alleviated by stiffening the frame though. If anything, they might even get worse since you are eliminating elasticity. Hard to say really.
HTH, Rainmaker.
Squeaks and rattles are probably not going to be alleviated by stiffening the frame though. If anything, they might even get worse since you are eliminating elasticity. Hard to say really.
HTH, Rainmaker.
i have little squeaks and rattles also.. i guess i stiffened things up and the car handles A LOT better.. but it still has its little noises... anyway i got neuspeed front upper bars, rear upper and lower tie bars, st anti sway bar kit, koni adjustable sports, and eibach sportlines.. car handles way better.. i also have aftermarket rims and tires.. all these stiffened it up and theres way less body roll. but theres still some rattles/squeaks
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From: Formerly of SF moved to DFW and now back in SF, CA, USA
The squeaks and stuff could be hatch rattles. Also lube up your seat belt where it bolts to the floor. I did that and the squeakes went away.
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after I installed my Spoon front and rear upper strut tower bars in my 94 GSR sedan, it kept the car very tight around corners, feels much less flexy now.
highly suggest you get a pair of high quality strut tower bars.
Skunk2 is also nice, and a bit less expensive... I am getting the rear on efo rmy civic hatch, frotn already has a neuspeed bar.
highly suggest you get a pair of high quality strut tower bars.
Skunk2 is also nice, and a bit less expensive... I am getting the rear on efo rmy civic hatch, frotn already has a neuspeed bar.
Strut bars... and suspension, for a street car is about all that is worth it...
No offense guys, but mentioning tie-bars, etc... for a street car?!?!? Useless, NO street tire will provide you with the level of adhesion necessary to twist the frame so much that the tie-bar would become effective.
Unless you like the mad bling bling chrome finish Neuspeed tie-bar.
No offense guys, but mentioning tie-bars, etc... for a street car?!?!? Useless, NO street tire will provide you with the level of adhesion necessary to twist the frame so much that the tie-bar would become effective.
Unless you like the mad bling bling chrome finish Neuspeed tie-bar.
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Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,690
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From: Formerly of SF moved to DFW and now back in SF, CA, USA
what kind of lube did you use? white lithuim grease? or like a spray lube like WD-40? thanks in advance
[Modified by GSRaCeRbOI, 1:03 AM 1/5/2002]
[Modified by GSRaCeRbOI, 1:03 AM 1/5/2002]
Strut bars... and suspension, for a street car is about all that is worth it...
No offense guys, but mentioning tie-bars, etc... for a street car?!?!? Useless, NO street tire will provide you with the level of adhesion necessary to twist the frame so much that the tie-bar would become effective.
No offense guys, but mentioning tie-bars, etc... for a street car?!?!? Useless, NO street tire will provide you with the level of adhesion necessary to twist the frame so much that the tie-bar would become effective.
ok. as i understand it, the purpose of strut bars and tie bars is to help the springs reduce body roll and create extra oversteer or understeer at the limit, depending on the configuration. these will help prevent the distance from one strut tower to the other from getting closer to one another, preventing body roll, but they don't stop the twisting force exerted on the frame between the front and rear suspension, which is the integra's weak point. by raising the roof and making the RSX more pod-like, honda achieved a 130% increase in frame rigidity (claims from their brochure), which gives the vehicle a much more solid feel, and cuts down on the formation of squeaks because the interior isn't flexing as much as our integra (experience from test-driving an RSX w/18k on it), so body panels don't move like tectonic plates, and the ride is audio-stress free. there is squeak from the hatch, adjusting those little rubber dampers temporarily remedies that problem. but it keeps returning due to the shifting of it's mounts as a direct result of the twist applied to the frame when the suspension damps your forward inertia, trying like hell to keep the wheels stuck to the road so you can corner. the suspension is at the top of the list of upgrades, but the squeaks will only get worse, IMHO. hitting ripples in the pavement is going to make the frame flex & twist regardless of suspension configuration, so i think the best solution would be elimination of the weak link, then upgrade everything else.
no cliff notes

ideas?
no cliff notes

ideas?
No offense guys, but mentioning tie-bars, etc... for a street car?!?!? Useless, NO street tire will provide you with the level of adhesion necessary to twist the frame so much that the tie-bar would become effective.
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... where can i find the do-luck bar?

