I'm running new wires from a 4 channel amp in the trunk to all 4 factory speaker locations. The rears are no problem, but I want to run the wire through the factory rubber tube through which the window and lock wires run from the body and into the door, and I can't get in there. From what I can feel after I remove the idoor panel it seems like theres some kin of harness or gasket covering the hole from the door side. What gives? Anyone pulled this off?

 

anyone???

 

hey man..this is an easy one...email me and tell me what guage wire and type of amp it is..and ill help ya...BJSGuitar@aol.com

B.J.

 

man youre making it tougher than it needs to be
just run it to your hu and tap into the stock wiring there

theres really no need to replace the in door wiring unless you plan on running like 200 watts to your doors

 

Just drill holes, get grommets and a wire loom and you're set.

 

you can use the stock wiring.. or if you want you can use a bit to enlarge the hole in the stock grommet this is a bitch to do though.. .. OR you can drill a new hole from frame/door and add a grommet and run the wire that way

 

Just use the factory wires at the deck to tap on to your speaker wires. The boot in your door is a moolex plug and you have to drill a new hole in the door to run extra wires. I will show you some pics of what we had to do to run new wires to add a window roll up module for my alarm. Took the door right off the pins, it was like a jeep.

 

like this? You have to take the doors off and drill out the un-used section of the harness to pass the wires through

 

Yeah, that's what I want, but it looks like a bitch, so I'll settle with stock wires

 

You'll need to pull out the doors and drill out some empty spots in the Molex connectors. If you want to run the passive crossover outside of the door and have it accessible to play the phasing and any tweeter attenuation circuits, you'll have to run new wire. Besides, the factory wiring is MUCH too thin anyway. It might be ok for a tweeter but you need to make sure the mid gets as MUCH current as possible.

It's a bitch to do it, but you'll do it right.