Just finished my 2nd mani
Not too bad, lil better than my last one. I was going to try and make something tubular...but it's so god damn hard with just a chop saw. So I gave up and made another log. Welder is a harbor freight pos.

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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by untitled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you do another one, you should try a equal length...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe, if I copy the ramhorn style it doesn't seem like you need to cut too much.
Maybe, if I copy the ramhorn style it doesn't seem like you need to cut too much.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by untitled »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the collector will take some time. def need a bandsaw. you can get tham at lowes for like 180 for a 1hp. make sure its the horizontal one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You sure those will cut metal though ?
You sure those will cut metal though ?
Welds could use a lot work, not trying to be an *** or anything just letting you know where weaknesses are seen. I can tell for sure that the welds didnt penitrate on the T3 flange and the radius plate to tubing.
Looks more like a weak welding machine that doesnt have the power to do it.
Looks more like a weak welding machine that doesnt have the power to do it.
No harm done. What's the radius plate?
Yea it's a weak machine...I try and do slow half moons to try and make it really sink in. I wasn't too happy with the welds on the t3 flange either...so I put a straight line bead on the inside.
This one SHOULD hold up, my last one was worse than this and it never had a problem. But we'll see.
Yea it's a weak machine...I try and do slow half moons to try and make it really sink in. I wasn't too happy with the welds on the t3 flange either...so I put a straight line bead on the inside.
This one SHOULD hold up, my last one was worse than this and it never had a problem. But we'll see.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ExploitedRacing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">radius plate is the peice that lifts the t3 flange from the tubes.
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gotcha. Yea those two welds got grinded down a little to make it look a lil better, they were worse before
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gotcha. Yea those two welds got grinded down a little to make it look a lil better, they were worse before
I agree (respectfully), that the welding needs work. If I were you, I'd practice a bit more before doing another one. I don't mean that badly. I just KNOW that if you practice more, your next one will be better. You can probably get some scrap in the same thickness and use it for practice.
What wire and gas are you using? I'm thinking that if a more powerful machine isn't an option, a different gas may provide more heat. Also, I know it's a pain in the ***, but if you put it in the oven and get it about 300 degrees prior to welding, it will give the same effect as having a more powerful machine.
Although there is room for improvement, I've got to give props to anybody that does these things on their own!! congrats!!
What wire and gas are you using? I'm thinking that if a more powerful machine isn't an option, a different gas may provide more heat. Also, I know it's a pain in the ***, but if you put it in the oven and get it about 300 degrees prior to welding, it will give the same effect as having a more powerful machine.
Although there is room for improvement, I've got to give props to anybody that does these things on their own!! congrats!!
Using 75/25 mix and if I remember right the wire thickness is .32??? Does that sound right?
For something like this, is circles or waves good? Or should I just do a straight line? Same question for thin piping (for charge piping and exhaust)
Thanks to everyone!
edit: How do the welds on the head flange look? Are those good or do they need improvement like the others?
For something like this, is circles or waves good? Or should I just do a straight line? Same question for thin piping (for charge piping and exhaust)
Thanks to everyone!
edit: How do the welds on the head flange look? Are those good or do they need improvement like the others?
Ill give you a hint to welding on pipe with a MIG gun...
Weld down. i assume you are keeping the beveled edges?
In this case since the manifolds we make are such small diameter you are really supposed to TIG it but i know everyone cant do that and doesnt have acces to a $1k+ welder, so when using MIG on small pipe you would do one pass which would seal, penetrate, and be cosmetic. Usually with bigger pipe(i.e. 4-10inch) youd lay a root/sealing pass, then a covering cosmetic pass. By MIGing small pipe you would "quarter" the pipe, which would be welding 1/4 of the runner, then rotating to expose unwelded section and do it againg until the whole runner is welded. 4 total start and stops. Typically you wouldnt want start and stop points so if you can do this in thirds, go for it. However dont try to do much past thirds b/c then you wouldnt be welding down any more. You have to remember to use gravity to your advantage, especially if you are to hot and start to get some drips, but hot penetrates. Of course before you would do this youd have it securely tacked in 4 place so it wont move when it warps.
Try doing it on some scrape straight pipe first and you dont have to weave really on the small pipe, unless you are really low on amperage.
Ill try to show you:

Weld down. i assume you are keeping the beveled edges?
In this case since the manifolds we make are such small diameter you are really supposed to TIG it but i know everyone cant do that and doesnt have acces to a $1k+ welder, so when using MIG on small pipe you would do one pass which would seal, penetrate, and be cosmetic. Usually with bigger pipe(i.e. 4-10inch) youd lay a root/sealing pass, then a covering cosmetic pass. By MIGing small pipe you would "quarter" the pipe, which would be welding 1/4 of the runner, then rotating to expose unwelded section and do it againg until the whole runner is welded. 4 total start and stops. Typically you wouldnt want start and stop points so if you can do this in thirds, go for it. However dont try to do much past thirds b/c then you wouldnt be welding down any more. You have to remember to use gravity to your advantage, especially if you are to hot and start to get some drips, but hot penetrates. Of course before you would do this youd have it securely tacked in 4 place so it wont move when it warps.
Try doing it on some scrape straight pipe first and you dont have to weave really on the small pipe, unless you are really low on amperage.
Ill try to show you:

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From: hittin corners so hard you can taste my rims..
untitled's right...
if you slow up the wire speed, and max out the power, your welds would penetrate more. let it bubble up alittle before moving on.
its all about practice. if you have the resources.. its fun as hell.. some nights here at work, i'll just take a shitload of scrap metal, and just weld **** together.. for liek 2 hours too!
the mani looks good... prolly flows better than mine, since i HAD to keep AC.
if you slow up the wire speed, and max out the power, your welds would penetrate more. let it bubble up alittle before moving on.
its all about practice. if you have the resources.. its fun as hell.. some nights here at work, i'll just take a shitload of scrap metal, and just weld **** together.. for liek 2 hours too!

the mani looks good... prolly flows better than mine, since i HAD to keep AC.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Built B16A »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
its all about practice. if you have the resources.. its fun as hell.. some nights here at work, i'll just take a shitload of scrap metal, and just weld **** together.. for liek 2 hours too!
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, I do the same thing but I don't use a helmet, I tell my eyes to get use to it and by the end of the day all I can see if white but the next time when I use a helmet its sure is a lot easier.
Also if you have a very very weak machine, do not let the piece cool off doing the welds you make.
its all about practice. if you have the resources.. its fun as hell.. some nights here at work, i'll just take a shitload of scrap metal, and just weld **** together.. for liek 2 hours too!

</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yep, I do the same thing but I don't use a helmet, I tell my eyes to get use to it and by the end of the day all I can see if white but the next time when I use a helmet its sure is a lot easier.
Also if you have a very very weak machine, do not let the piece cool off doing the welds you make.
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Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,415
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From: hittin corners so hard you can taste my rims..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yep, I do the same thing but I don't use a helmet, </TD></TR></TABLE>
im sorry, but thats just dumb... wait a few years.. you'll know what i mean.
im sorry, but thats just dumb... wait a few years.. you'll know what i mean.


