Got this off the ITR forum, has anyone tried these 1 person bleeders?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Brake Bleeder Tool
This brake bleeder tool uses the same principle as expensive pressure bleeders found at the dealership. The air over fluid system is pressurized from a spare tire or other low pressure source (20 psi) and keeps the master cylinder full while pushing fresh fluid through the system. All you have to do is open the bleed valve and catch the old fluid while watching for the new clean fluid.

It connects to your Volvo’s master cylinder with the included ported cap. Caps are also included for most other import and domestic master cylinders. It makes the task of bleeding brakes or other hydraulic systems an almost effortless and foolproof operation. Gone is the frustration in trying to coordinate pumping the pedal, opening and closing the bleed valve, trying to keep the fluid in the master cylinder at the correct level, and keeping air out of the system. With the Eezibleed you can quickly and safely bleed your brakes by yourself.</TD></TR></TABLE>


There is also one sold off Griot's
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">THE PUMPABLE ONE MAN BRAKE FLUID EXTRACTOR
This brake fluid extracting system is the easiest way to bleed brakes by yourself if you don't have an air compressor. Start by creating vacuum in the 19 1/2" tall container by pumping the unit about ten times. Then push the red rubber fitting (on the end of the 61" clear extracting tube) over the bleeder screw, open the bleeder screw, and watch the dirty fluid get sucked out. It doesn't get any simpler! A special reservoir refill bottle is included to maintain a constant level of clean brake fluid in the master brake reservoir. When you start to see clean fluid come through the clear tube you know you're done. I recommend you use the extractor to suck out the dirty fluid from the master reservoir first, fill with fresh brake fluid, then start bleeding the brakes. Great for race tracks or areas without air compressors. The extractor tank holds 1.056 gallons of brake fluid! 19 1/2" tall. Made in Taiwan. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

I got the 1 man Power Bleeder from AJUSA a while back and it's okay. The universal adapter that's supplied with the kit seals pooly and you have to really work at getting it to seal right; you inadvertantly spill some fluid.

The Griot's piece looks really nice, and I hinted at wanting one for Christmas, so if I get it, I can report back, but the obvious advantage is that 1. you don't have to worry about losing pressure if the seal fails at the m/c, and you can easily man it (power bleeder really is best with 2 people; one doing the bleeding, the other watching to make sure brake fluid isn't pissing all over the place.)

Some people argue that you don't get as complete a flush with a vacuum v. a power bleeder, but I don't know why it would be any different.

If I had to do it over again, I'd go with the Griot's; for the reasons above, and the fact that I could use it on my motorcycle, as the power bleeder's seal is too big to fit on the much smaller bike m/c.

 

No, but keep in mind that hondas don't have the threaded caps like many european cars. If they don't have some type of generic adapter it's not going to connect right.

I have a compressor powered vacuum tool and it worked ok, but I don't use it anymore.
http://www.handsontools.com/st....html

I bought a brake bleeder bottle with check valves in the hoses and it works as good as anything else I've ever tried.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=925064

 

an old mayo bottle, a long length of tube, and a good bleeder nipple is all I use. Never had air in my brakes, even doing it by myself. I just make sure that the hose goes up enough before heading down - that way the hose always has enough fluid in it to prevent the bubbles from getting pulled back.

 

I have speed bleeders on both Miatas. Love 'em. No problems with them at all.

 

I have both the motive power bleeder and the mityvac hydraulic bleeder attachment and love hem both - the mityvac is great for quick "emergency bleeds" at the track - dont even have to remove a wheel, just jam the hose on there, loosen the nipple, and pump. th motive bleeder is great when im home and want to flush the fuid because i dont hav eto keep topping off the resivoir - but as was noted above, it can leak, so always pressure test it before filling it.

 

I have tried a few of those "1 man" bleeders....I will just stick to the 2 man job here..

 

i use the $6 one-man bleeder from you local auto parts store. does it work? yes. would i rather just do it the old fashioned way w/ a 2nd person? yes.

 

I am a speed-bleeder convert. I was lost and now am found...

K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am a speed-bleeder convert. I was lost and now am found...

K</TD></TR></TABLE>

I love my SpeedBleeders too, but now my front ones are leaking around the threads when I loosen them. I guess I need their thread sealant stuff. Anyone know if there's an alternative (i.e. can be bought in any autoparts store) sealant I can use? Can I even get away with using teflon tape on the threads?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=925064 </TD></TR></TABLE>

Damnit...I'm saving myself some mon-ay!

thnx .RJ

 

I've used Teflon tape on non-speed bleeders for 20+ years and think it works great. Just don't wrap the threads down by the taper and keep an eye out for stray threads of stuff that might end up in the caliper cavity.

K

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Knestis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've used Teflon tape on non-speed bleeders for 20+ years and think it works great. Just don't wrap the threads down by the taper and keep an eye out for stray threads of stuff that might end up in the caliper cavity.

K</TD></TR></TABLE>

Will do, thx for the tip!

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/c...39522

I've used the mityvac pump and works decent but I would still prefer the 2 man method to get the very best bleeding possible.

 

I have the 2nd one you show by Griots Garage and I love it. It works very well but after several uses you will want to do things like replace the hose or the O-ring that seals the container.

I give it

 

i have the motive bleeder. Never had problems with it holding pressure and I can bleed all 4 wheels by myself really quick. I like it and that's how I usually bleed them all the time now.

s

 

Speed bleeders are the way the go.

 

I'll second the Griott's bleeder. I've used it on the brakes and clutch without any problems.

The Motive scared me because of the leaking issue. Sure, it can be solved by testing the seal before filling it up, but with the Griott's there's nothing to test.