what motor?
ok well i have a crx im going to start off in h4 with it but i want to eventually get into H1. would an H22 be a good selection to run in it. or should i get a b18c1? let me know what u think is a better choice.
-Kyle
-Kyle
Hi kyle,
Nice of you to join us here in the RR forum. Did you read the rules on the way in? Just wanted to make your life a little easier.
Have you read the rules for H4 and H1? I dunno...just curious.
I didn't vote because if you read the rules for H4, then you would already know the answer.
Good luck Kyle.
Nice of you to join us here in the RR forum. Did you read the rules on the way in? Just wanted to make your life a little easier.
Have you read the rules for H4 and H1? I dunno...just curious.
I didn't vote because if you read the rules for H4, then you would already know the answer.
Good luck Kyle.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sean O’Gorman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are a 17 year old who has no racing experience at all, and likely has a very low budget.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nice ***-u-me-ption
Nice ***-u-me-ption
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Nice ***</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you coming on to me?
Nice ***</TD></TR></TABLE>
Are you coming on to me?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sean O’Gorman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are a 17 year old who has no racing experience at all, and likely has a very low budget.
You aren't going H4 racing anytime soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree... My wife and I are teachers with a combined household income of almost $90,000 (including our summer jobs) before taxes (grrrrr), we own a home, have a baby, and out of 3 cars, only make payments on 1... And I can't afford to go road racing. Even before the baby, running such an "entry level" class like H4 or H5 would have been a stretch.
Also, your name says "AutoX wannabe", autocross for 2-3 years first if you have not done so yet. Learn car control and the basics of car setup. A fast Solo2 car will be just as much, if not more rewarding in many aspects than a road race car. There exists a set of unique challenges in getting any car around a demanding autocross course faster than anyone else. Try it.
To prove this refer to the old saying:
"If autocrossing were any easier, they'd have to call it road racing."
You aren't going H4 racing anytime soon.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree... My wife and I are teachers with a combined household income of almost $90,000 (including our summer jobs) before taxes (grrrrr), we own a home, have a baby, and out of 3 cars, only make payments on 1... And I can't afford to go road racing. Even before the baby, running such an "entry level" class like H4 or H5 would have been a stretch.
Also, your name says "AutoX wannabe", autocross for 2-3 years first if you have not done so yet. Learn car control and the basics of car setup. A fast Solo2 car will be just as much, if not more rewarding in many aspects than a road race car. There exists a set of unique challenges in getting any car around a demanding autocross course faster than anyone else. Try it.
To prove this refer to the old saying:
"If autocrossing were any easier, they'd have to call it road racing."
yes i have read all the rules and stuff on H1 and H4. i am getting a stock motor for my crx soon so i can build that as far as the rules will let me. i am also getting new tokico illuminas for xmas. (thank you all my friends who are chipping in). so i just need a little work on the car to get it race ready. i know H1 will be expensive but i didnt plan on it soon. i was just planning on starting on the motor sometime in the near future. well anywho thanx for all the responses so far.
-Kyle
-Kyle
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You are the only one who knows what you can and can't do. If you want to race you will find a way to make it happen even on a meager budget.
I wouldn't even worry about H1 now. By the time you get the car on track, run some HPDEs, and get your race license, the best H1 engine set-up will probably be different than what it is now. Plus the rules could change affecting your decision.
Prepare your car with H4 in mind. You may even find that after all is said and done, you won't want to run H1. Even though H4 is slower, the competition is just as tough, if not tougher.
And you should visit a HC race and talk to some of the drivers about there cars and set-ups. This will give you best insight regarding your project requirements.
I wouldn't even worry about H1 now. By the time you get the car on track, run some HPDEs, and get your race license, the best H1 engine set-up will probably be different than what it is now. Plus the rules could change affecting your decision.
Prepare your car with H4 in mind. You may even find that after all is said and done, you won't want to run H1. Even though H4 is slower, the competition is just as tough, if not tougher.
And you should visit a HC race and talk to some of the drivers about there cars and set-ups. This will give you best insight regarding your project requirements.
thanx rickpeak. the season is over now tho. also how often do the rules change? i went to NASAproracing.com and got the HC rules. but at the top they say 2003 season. are there any differences? anywho ya i live pretty close to willow springs so i was planning on getting some time over there when i get the different motor.
-Kyle
-Kyle
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rickpeak »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And you should visit a HC race and talk to some of the drivers about there cars and set-ups. This will give you best insight regarding your project requirements.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Working on someone else's crew (like mine...) for a season would be even better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sean O’Gorman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are a 17 year old who has no racing experience at all, and likely has a very low budget.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly the sort or discouraging and deconstructive comment one would expect from someone who's only 21...
We should be encouraging new guys to run with us, not scare them off by acting rude and superior. Why not politely point him to the FAQs, a few help full links and invite him to a race. He's either got the motivation and resources or he doesn't. But he certainly knows more about that than we do. Or at least he will, after attending and event or two.
Also, there may soon be another engine choice besides the ones listed above. But you'll have to go to NASA Forums to learn about "LMS" Hondas. We're not supossed to talk about it here.
Modified by thawley at 8:13 AM 12/16/2004
Working on someone else's crew (like mine...) for a season would be even better.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sean O’Gorman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You are a 17 year old who has no racing experience at all, and likely has a very low budget.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Exactly the sort or discouraging and deconstructive comment one would expect from someone who's only 21...
We should be encouraging new guys to run with us, not scare them off by acting rude and superior. Why not politely point him to the FAQs, a few help full links and invite him to a race. He's either got the motivation and resources or he doesn't. But he certainly knows more about that than we do. Or at least he will, after attending and event or two.
Also, there may soon be another engine choice besides the ones listed above. But you'll have to go to NASA Forums to learn about "LMS" Hondas. We're not supossed to talk about it here.
Modified by thawley at 8:13 AM 12/16/2004
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tokico's arent going to cut it for racing.
I think Sean is right about the budget.... wait till you have a good job before you worry about road racing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What was that line about ***-u-me-ptions again?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Working on someone Elsie's crew (like mine...) for a season would be even better.
Exactly the sort or discouraging and deconstructive comment one would expect from someone who's only 21...
We should be encouraging new guys to run with us, not scare them off by acting rude and superior. Why not politely point him to the FAQs, a few help full links and invite him to a race. He's either got the motivation and resources or he doesn't. But he certainly knows more about that than we do. Or at least he will, after attending and event or two.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The kid has posted here several times before, his name was Crxstreetracer90. I showed the FAQ, told him how it is unrealistic to be able to jump straight to road racing, to leave his car as is and start doing as much auto-x and HPDE as he can afford, but he keeps asking the same questions about road racing.
Maybe he needs to a see a per weekend/per season budget to realize what he is looking at? Something tells me if he needs friends to pitch in just to buy Tokicos, that road racing is a bit unrealistic, wouldn't you say?
I think Sean is right about the budget.... wait till you have a good job before you worry about road racing.</TD></TR></TABLE>
What was that line about ***-u-me-ptions again?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Working on someone Elsie's crew (like mine...) for a season would be even better.
Exactly the sort or discouraging and deconstructive comment one would expect from someone who's only 21...
We should be encouraging new guys to run with us, not scare them off by acting rude and superior. Why not politely point him to the FAQs, a few help full links and invite him to a race. He's either got the motivation and resources or he doesn't. But he certainly knows more about that than we do. Or at least he will, after attending and event or two.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The kid has posted here several times before, his name was Crxstreetracer90. I showed the FAQ, told him how it is unrealistic to be able to jump straight to road racing, to leave his car as is and start doing as much auto-x and HPDE as he can afford, but he keeps asking the same questions about road racing.
Maybe he needs to a see a per weekend/per season budget to realize what he is looking at? Something tells me if he needs friends to pitch in just to buy Tokicos, that road racing is a bit unrealistic, wouldn't you say?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sean O’Gorman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Something tells me if he needs friends to pitch in just to buy Tokicos, that road racing is a bit unrealistic, wouldn't you say?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Likely true. Also, much better reasoned and more gently stated than your first comment. Well done.
Likely true. Also, much better reasoned and more gently stated than your first comment. Well done.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,200
Likes: 0
From: One by one, the penguins steal my sanity.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sean O’Gorman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Maybe he needs to a see a per weekend/per season budget to realize what he is looking at?</TD></TR></TABLE>
You asked...
Here's a rough breakdown of my costs to get started and run a full season of DC region MARRS events...
Start-up costs:
$1500 RX-7 street car
$1500 Spec RX-7 parts (cage, suspension, etc)
$1000 tie rods, ball joints, and other wear items repalced
$ 300 Momo Rookie seat
$ 600 Sparco Nomex suit
$ 300 misc other Nomex gear
$ 200 fire suppression system
$1000 wheels, tires, lug nuts
$ 400 harnesses (driver and passenger)
That's somewhere around $7000 and I haven't even touched the engine, trans, diff, or other major mechanical bits.
Per weekend cost:
$ 300 race entry
$ 150 Friday practice session entry
$ 100 misc consumables
$ 100 tire wear (figuring 4 weekends per set at $100 per tire)
$ 100 gasoline
$ 100 motel/travel expense
Other costs (stuff that needs replaced periodically):
brake pads
brake rotors
wheels (yes, wheels are a consumable)
tires
harness (2 years per latest NASA rules)
seat (2 years per latest NASA rules if FIA spec)
clutch
tie rods, ball joints, control arms (wear and get bent in off-road spins)
NASA, SCCA, etc memberships
tools (air compressor, air tools, cordless tools, torque wrenches, etc)
Engine rebuilds for piston cars can run anywhere from $1000+
Tranny rebuilds are $300+ (? rough guess)
What does a replacement shell cost for the car (everyone crashes eventually)? If your cage is welded, then add another $2000+ on top of that. Plus however much time/money it takes to replace/move the stuff from the crashed car.
You asked...
Here's a rough breakdown of my costs to get started and run a full season of DC region MARRS events...
Start-up costs:
$1500 RX-7 street car
$1500 Spec RX-7 parts (cage, suspension, etc)
$1000 tie rods, ball joints, and other wear items repalced
$ 300 Momo Rookie seat
$ 600 Sparco Nomex suit
$ 300 misc other Nomex gear
$ 200 fire suppression system
$1000 wheels, tires, lug nuts
$ 400 harnesses (driver and passenger)
That's somewhere around $7000 and I haven't even touched the engine, trans, diff, or other major mechanical bits.
Per weekend cost:
$ 300 race entry
$ 150 Friday practice session entry
$ 100 misc consumables
$ 100 tire wear (figuring 4 weekends per set at $100 per tire)
$ 100 gasoline
$ 100 motel/travel expense
Other costs (stuff that needs replaced periodically):
brake pads
brake rotors
wheels (yes, wheels are a consumable)
tires
harness (2 years per latest NASA rules)
seat (2 years per latest NASA rules if FIA spec)
clutch
tie rods, ball joints, control arms (wear and get bent in off-road spins)
NASA, SCCA, etc memberships
tools (air compressor, air tools, cordless tools, torque wrenches, etc)
Engine rebuilds for piston cars can run anywhere from $1000+
Tranny rebuilds are $300+ (? rough guess)
What does a replacement shell cost for the car (everyone crashes eventually)? If your cage is welded, then add another $2000+ on top of that. Plus however much time/money it takes to replace/move the stuff from the crashed car.
I voted for you to stay in H4 with the D16 as we have much more Fun
Drivers are more cometitive in H4 than other HC classes.
So when you decide to race with us come and see us at the track You, can talk with any racer and ask questions before you build your car.
Like what kind of springs and shocks they use before you buy the tokicos for racing.
Drivers are more cometitive in H4 than other HC classes.
So when you decide to race with us come and see us at the track You, can talk with any racer and ask questions before you build your car.
Like what kind of springs and shocks they use before you buy the tokicos for racing.
Quick write up of building an ITA/H4 car I did was about $10k for a good, solid car that wont run up front, $15k for a good car that will run up front regionally and if you want to go to ARRC or something then figure another $3-4K in engine work. And those figures do not include the cost of the street car/shell you start with.
And then the truck/trailer. It aint cheap. I'm still doing DE's... for a while.
And then the truck/trailer. It aint cheap. I'm still doing DE's... for a while.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ignorance is bliss.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I dont even want to add up what I spend to track a street car.
I dont even want to add up what I spend to track a street car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Quick write up of building an ITA/H4 car I did was about $10k for a good, solid car that wont run up front, $15k for a good car that will run up front regionally and if you want to go to ARRC or something then figure another $3-4K in engine work. And those figures do not include the cost of the street car/shell you start with.
And then the truck/trailer. It aint cheap. I'm still doing DE's... for a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>
RJ speaks the truth. I bought my car for roughly 10K. I easily put another 5-6K into it (final drive, headers, intake, flywheel, Hondata, new head from R&D).
The competition in H4 is pretty fierce on both coasts and it's not exactly cheap.
I am sure Alex can chime in on what a front running ITA ARRC winner costs but I'd venture to guess that it's close to 20K.
I really think that H5 is the way to start. Most people in H5 are costs conscious and you learn a lot racing on a strict budget. No swapping out the final drive to get an extra half second, you end up working on your driving to achieve that same half second.
Once you get into H1 everyone is spending extra money on the engine to get another 5 hp.
And then the truck/trailer. It aint cheap. I'm still doing DE's... for a while.</TD></TR></TABLE>
RJ speaks the truth. I bought my car for roughly 10K. I easily put another 5-6K into it (final drive, headers, intake, flywheel, Hondata, new head from R&D).
The competition in H4 is pretty fierce on both coasts and it's not exactly cheap.
I am sure Alex can chime in on what a front running ITA ARRC winner costs but I'd venture to guess that it's close to 20K.
I really think that H5 is the way to start. Most people in H5 are costs conscious and you learn a lot racing on a strict budget. No swapping out the final drive to get an extra half second, you end up working on your driving to achieve that same half second.
Once you get into H1 everyone is spending extra money on the engine to get another 5 hp.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crack Monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">seat (2 years per latest NASA rules if FIA spec)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
OT, but where in the rule does it say seats are only good for 2 years? SCCA has a 5 year requirement, but I just looked at the NASA rules, and they don't specify.
if I missed something, or it's a typo. 2 years just seems like an awfully short life span for a seat.
Oh, and I voted for the D-series...you'll spend less on cams.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
OT, but where in the rule does it say seats are only good for 2 years? SCCA has a 5 year requirement, but I just looked at the NASA rules, and they don't specify.
if I missed something, or it's a typo. 2 years just seems like an awfully short life span for a seat.Oh, and I voted for the D-series...you'll spend less on cams.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thawley »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Damn. If I had added all that **** up before I went racing, I may never have done it
Ignorance is bliss.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ignorance is bliss.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FLATOUTRACING »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I really think that H5 is the way to start. Most people in H5 are costs conscious and you learn a lot racing on a strict budget. No swapping out the final drive to get an extra half second, you end up working on your driving to achieve that same half second. </TD></TR></TABLE>
This is true. In fact there is a good H5 west coast car for sale for $2500.00! Can't beat that price!
This is true. In fact there is a good H5 west coast car for sale for $2500.00! Can't beat that price!



