My rotors are starting to rust bad so I'm thinking of replacing them. What are suggestions for good brakes? I like how big cross-drilled rotors look but I've heard that that is bad for the brakes. How about slotted rotors? Anyways, any suggestions about what to get and where is appreciated.

 

I have Brembo cross drilled front and Powerslot slotted rear rotors. This is with EBC greenstuff all around. The work excelent for the street, requiring no time to heat up, and they provide that strong bite people look for in brakes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mean Green Racing Machine &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have Brembo cross drilled front and Powerslot slotted rear rotors. This is with EBC greenstuff all around. The work excelent for the street, requiring no time to heat up, and they provide that strong bite people look for in brakes. </TD></TR></TABLE>

HAHAHA. Stronger bite?? How is this possible?? Your "performance" rotors have LESS surface area to slow the car down now. You would have stronger bite had you gone with blanks. It's all in your head, man. You didn't research brake upgrades enough and fell for the hype. The crossed-drilled/slotted don't do ANYTHING for you!! You paid MORE money for parts that actually decreased the performance of your car.

As I say to all people who are serious about modding their, don't listen to guys like this. Just buy blank rotors and a nice brake pad. Good brake pads and tires are all you need. Don't waste your money on anything else.

If you only drive your car on the streets, Axxis Ultimates are pretty good for the money.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The crossed-drilled/slotted don't do ANYTHING for you!! You paid MORE money for parts that actually decreased the performance of your car.

As I say to all people who are serious about modding their, don't listen to guys like this. Just buy blank rotors and a nice brake pad. Good brake pads and tires are all you need. Don't waste your money on anything else.

If you only drive your car on the streets, Axxis Ultimates are pretty good for the money.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yup x-drilling is all for looks. Slots might help with initial bite in sloppy conditions but they're expensive, eat pad, and crack easier.

Get a set of OEM replacement rotors from NAPA/Kragen/Autozone and a set of good pads. I like cobalt friction GT-S's, the axxis ultimates are pretty good--these two dust alot if you care about that. OEM pads work fine too.

It depends on what you want to upgrade, really. Stopping distances? only way to do it is with better tires. Feel? pads, SS lines. Fade resistance? Good Fluid, brake ducts, pads, and if you insist on spending lots of money: big brake kits.

 

all you need to do is get some better pads, up the dot rating of fluid (nab some dot4), and if you want new rotors, just get OE replacements.

or do the legend/nsx caliper swap, but thats taking it to another lvl

 

I've got the Axxis pads with the Rotora discs all the way around.

I the Rotora's have a black Zinc coating (looks like low luster enamel) that covers the hats (inner and outter) and the edges / inner surfaces of the discs.

As such, nothing rusts in-between the two discs or anywhere except the rotor surface after rain, etc...

The car stops quite well. I like th Axxis pads, but they dust like crazy. The Rotora rotors are a no brainer as they are great. They are slotted... and I do find that it's pretty useful.

I may go back to a ceramic pad, but the rotors I'll keep using.

I've got 20,000 miles on them without a hint of a problem.

While they are of excellent quality, if you are concerned about cracking... then just send them out to be cryotreated. I did that with a set of Brembo blanks... and they NEVER warped. Unlike 3 sets of stock rotors...

Gerhard

 

Well looks was part of it. I wanted some big cross drilled rotors that would look cool if it didn't require big sacrifices elsewhere. I was also thinking about getting stainless lines and everything else as far as pads etc I was clueless on. How hard is it to do SS lines (or what is the shop cost to have someone else do them?)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Broken Devil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My rotors are starting to rust bad so I'm thinking of replacing them. What are suggestions for good brakes? I like how big cross-drilled rotors look but I've heard that that is bad for the brakes. How about slotted rotors? Anyways, any suggestions about what to get and where is appreciated. </TD></TR></TABLE>

What are you using the car for? That dictates the reccomendation for brake pads; the rest holds true no matter what: Autozone blank rotors, fresh Brake fluid (again, depending on your application) and fresh pads (again, dependant on what you want out of them).

 

Street only, with mild winter conditions.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Broken Devil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Street only, with mild winter conditions. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Autozone blank rotors. Fresh Honda Brake Fluid and as far as pads go, you could get the Hawk HPS, Cobalt Sport GT or Carbotech Bobcat. I like Cobalt products myself.

 

Are those the same/better than OEM rotors? And where should I buy those cobalt pads?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Broken Devil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are those the same/better than OEM rotors? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know if they're compositionally exactly the same as stocks, but functionally, I've had NO problems with Autozone rotors and I've run 22 track days using Autozone rotors. So, they're good in my book.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">And where should I buy those cobalt pads?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Directly from Cobalt, by going to their website : http://www.cobaltfriction.com
They also sell their own brand of rotor, which I'll be trying next.

Regards

 

I dunno man I'm still lusting after those cross drilled rotors

 

Man, the most I would get is Powerslots just because they have that anti-corrosion coating.....but drilled.....no thanks.

 

Too dangerous or prone to failure?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Broken Devil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dunno man I'm still lusting after those cross drilled rotors </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Broken Devil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Too dangerous or prone to failure?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They're just a bling-blang item at the cost of actual performance......and prone to failure.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Broken Devil &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Too dangerous or prone to failure?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because they're useless; I'm not going to spell itout again; do a search for Cross Drilled Rotors. Thats should, I hope, set you straight.

 

Thanks man your help has been awesome

 

Cross drilled prone to cracking. Slotted not really. Slotted and cross drilled have less surface area. Both help release gasses built up in heavy braking. The true cross drilled rotors aren't really drilled at all. (Porsche) They're cast that way and are much stronger. Too many variables, but will help if stopping from higher speeds. (unless pads transfer heat faster, fluid boils, etc.)

If your stomping around town. No tracks. Don't worry about the slotted OR drilled. THEY DO look cool and I've been beating my brembo's up for a year and no problems since. ( I Autocross) I DO have the Vtec rotor sizes and NSX calipers. So the larger ones can take a little more abuse.

Once again. If they're just for the street, don't worry about them. Go bling.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxlr8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cross drilled prone to cracking. Slotted not really. Slotted and cross drilled have less surface area. Both help release gasses built up in heavy braking. The true cross drilled rotors aren't really drilled at all. (Porsche) They're cast that way and are much stronger. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ding! You just tapped the bullshit meter. Porsche rotors still crack. And, as far as I know, they're not case in the rotor, they're drilled just like all the other rotors.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Too many variables, but will help if stopping from higher speeds. (unless pads transfer heat faster, fluid boils, etc.) </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ding ... Ding! There goes that Bullshit meter again. The only part of the car stopping the car, is the tires! Period. All the brake system does is transfer kinetic energy into thermal. That's it. You upgrade your brake system to tolerate the amount of energy transfer, particular to your application; racing generates more heat, therefore it requires pads, fluids and (larger) rotors to better deal with the heat. Street driving requires low dust, low noise, long service life and low "on" temps for the pads. But all this has absoloutly nothing to do with stopping the car.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your stomping around town. No tracks. Don't worry about the slotted OR drilled. THEY DO look cool and I've been beating my brembo's up for a year and no problems since. ( I Autocross) I DO have the Vtec rotor sizes and NSX calipers. So the larger ones can take a little more abuse.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sticking your arm down an elephants *** may look cool too, but it really isn't.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Once again. If they're just for the street, don't worry about them. Go bling. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe you should pay for them then? Otherwise, quit reccomending inferior equipment.

 

You can order brembo oem replacement from nopi for 21 a piece tight now...
nuff said.

 

i would definately recommend steel braided lines but if you do i would change your brake fluid to silicone base instead of a glycol base which comes factory. Silicone base comes in i think don't quote but dot 4, 5, and 5.5. dot 5 is glycol and silicone but silcone does not absorb water unlike glycol which can absorb water from the atmosphere and get in the lines resulting in rust inside out from the steel lines. as far as getting lines it helps a great role in petal feel because there is less defraction than the stock rubber ones. Also when buying brake fluid take a great look at the wet and dry boiling points. Don't want brake fade then get a decent and high boiling point silicone based fluid. This prevents the fluid from boiling too easily and getting air bubbles in the fluid which are then compressed and before you know it your foot is on the floorboard but your still moving. This is only ideal if your doing a lot of braking!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludegetsmwet &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would definately recommend steel braided lines but if you do i would change your brake fluid to silicone base instead of a glycol base which comes factory. Silicone base comes in i think don't quote but dot 4, 5, and 5.5. dot 5 is glycol and silicone but silcone does not absorb water unlike glycol which can absorb water from the atmosphere and get in the lines resulting in rust inside out from the steel lines. as far as getting lines it helps a great role in petal feel because there is less defraction than the stock rubber ones. Also when buying brake fluid take a great look at the wet and dry boiling points. Don't want brake fade then get a decent and high boiling point silicone based fluid. This prevents the fluid from boiling too easily and getting air bubbles in the fluid which are then compressed and before you know it your foot is on the floorboard but your still moving. This is only ideal if your doing a lot of braking! </TD></TR></TABLE>

personally, i don't think stainless steel lines are necessary. I have them, i hate them. They're a huge pain in the *** b/c alot of the linemakers have shitty fitment, need to be replaced regularly every 2 years, and don't have much of a payoff in the end.

as far as fluid goes, in my book you can go big and get some motul rbf600, or you can go less big and get the valvoline dot4. both will be fine for street applications, the motul, better for tracking.

 

I just got finished putting brembo blanks/axxis ultimates on and they work great so far. It was a pain to get the old rotors off