We'll my car is fun right now, i can do mid 14´s and have a decent suspension setup. KYBAGX and Eibach prokit. Runing on dunlop sp9000 205/50/r15 on Rota Grids.

I have the oportunity to get a better brake setup as a present for christmas.
So, considering my car wont really see that much track driving, at most 2 laps and then cool down period and another sesion. (i dont think the engine will like the turbo heat for more than that). I do autocross often, about once every 2 weeks.

I want something that i dont have to be changing pads very often.

I thought of these two options.

Setup 1:
Willwood bigbrake kit.
http://store.summitracing.com/...08382
I do hope they fit over 15" wheels. 639$

Setup 2:
Axxis Metal Master Performance brake pads
135$ http://www.modacar.com/products/Honda/Civic/AMPBP
Powerslot rotors.
259$ http://www.modacar.com/products/Honda/Civic/PSSBR
Goodridge SS lines
118$ http://www.raceshopper.com/goo...shtml

Total:512$

Now, i wont be paying for this, but i do care no to go over the limit of price/quality. Would yo go with the wilwood setup fo the extra $127 ?

Im asking here in the road racing forums because you guys seem to know more about this stuff than over at EG+

TIA

 

aaa oooo here we go again, there all going to sell you just what i told you.

get some CHEAP rotor's they all do the same none are better then any other. some decent bads and fuild.

a big brake kit or brake up grade in terms of rotor size will normally put you into a class were you will be severly out gunned.

OO BTW those prices are nuts. contact civicrr (ht screen name) or go to the link in my signature for brakes. he can get you some great cobalt pads that are better then the axxis.

and go to auto zone ask for the cheapest rotors they have for you car, and use those.

IBTL

 

You are everywhere .

It was the first prices i came across. I didnt really check it out that much.

Oh and where i live, there are no autozones...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a big brake kit or brake up grade in terms of rotor size will normally put you into a class were you will be severly out gunned.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean by that?

 

Option 3: None of the above.

Carbotech Panther + pads, Motul 600 fluid, replace the lines with stock lines if you think they're worn or starting to crack. For rotors, any carquest/napa/pepboys, whatever you have will be fine. It's all the same crap.

 

Dont stock lines tend to expand with heat resulting in poor pedal feel?
Also, motul 600? Isnt that like race only fluid?

Carbotech Panther + pads. Links?

Thanks

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blindstuff &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What do you mean by that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

well **** i didn't notice that you were in a different country.

But in the USA in the SCCA, there are different classes for cars and such. Some times really little minor things throw you into a class were it is VERY VERY highly unlikely that you stand a chance at winning. but since you in a different country im not sure.

 

That 12.1" rotor wilwood kit will NOT fit 15" wheels (with the exception of the "ProRace 1" wheel from http://www.fastbrakes.com). Wilwood has a new kit (check their website) that comes with 11" rotors, and sets the rotors & calipers further inward so the caliper will clear OEM 15's. It also comes E compound pads (instead of the Q) which have a higher heat tollerance. You get better prices than summit on wilwood stuff at hotrodsusa.

Get Axxis Ultimates ($30.00 per axle set @ http://www.nopi.com ), and brembo blank rotors ($30.00 each at http://www.nopi.com ). Sloted rotors actually have a lower heat capacity than blank ones since there is less material (not worth the price unless you just want the look). SS lines will help, but don't forget upgraded brake fluid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well **** i didn't notice that you were in a different country. </TD></TR></TABLE>

no prob.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slammed_93_hatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But in the USA in the SCCA, there are different classes for cars and such. Some times really little minor things throw you into a class were it is VERY VERY highly unlikely that you stand a chance at winning. but since you in a different country im not sure.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh ok, yeah, well here racing is most disorganized, it goes by engine displacement at the time... . Im really just interested in something that i can relly on for long the trip to the track (2 hours) some racing there and back. I usually do around 80 mph on the way over and back from the track. It has to be able to stop me good from that speed.

 

Very helpfull 94eg! Thanx.

Nopi has some good prices, when seeing those, the wilwood kit seem over expensive for my needs.

Edit:

687293 437+0643 Brake Disc Acura 2 Chg $30.72 $0.00 $61.44
687293 437+0644 Brake Disc Acura 2 Chg $23.09 $0.00 $46.18
687293 498+0282 GOODRIDGE SS Brake Line Kit 1 Chg $127.81 $0.00 $127.81
687293 655+0751 Axxis ULTIMATE Pads Acu/Hon 2 Chg $29.81 $0.00 $59.62
687293 655+0758 Axxis ULTIMATE Pads Acu/Hon 2 Chg $38.42 $0.00 $76.84

Order Total $371.89

Seem like a good setup having 1 extra set of pads.
I have a hard time getting stuff over from the US so it seems safe to get two sets at once.

 

At the auto-x I occasionally go to (it gets boring if I go too much) there really isn't that much need for braking, you dont get going fast.

My opinion...go try it out as you are now. If you can lock up the brakes anytime during the runs, then why do you need more braking power? No need to spend money on something that isn't needed.

 

Yea.. spend that $ on sticky tires. If you have them already.. well duh, you will need another set soon enough, and if you dont have them, then brakes wont help you anyway.

Jon K
http://www.seat-time.com

 

You probably probably won't even need Motul 600 brake fluid. I used Valvoline Synpower and bleed it every six months. You can probably even get away with the store brand DOT3/4 brake fluid...

 

you can also check out fastbrakes.com, they have a custom big brake kit using wilwood 4 pot calipers, 11" rotors, include stainless lines and pads, and go for around $800 i think and also fit most 15" wheels. they also have nice rear brake upgrades.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LX4CYL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> You can probably even get away with the store brand DOT3/4 brake fluid...</TD></TR></TABLE>

I use DOT 4 with my Brembo Blanks and Hawk pads. Bleed every 15K, never had a problem.

 

http://www.carbotecheng.com - call them, ask for matt, tell him RJ sent you and you need panther plus pads and good fluid and new rotors.

 

Personally, i hate my stainless steel lines, and they are my #1 most hated modification. Maybe it was just the terrible fitment.

For a/x you don't need a big brake kit. You just need some good pads (Cobalt Friction GT-S, Carbotech Panther, Hawk HP+, Porterfield R4S), and rotors as needed. I can't see anyone fading their brakes in an a/x situation, so most of the brake upgrades available won't help you.

If you wanna improve stopping distances, spend the money on tires.

 

Thanx for all the help, im deciding between the multiple options you´ve given me for pads, but brembo blanks, ati super blue, and steel lines for sure.

I want this cuz my brakes suck, i feel they lack on the street even. Tires are sticky enough for now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Personally, i hate my stainless steel lines, and they are my #1 most hated modification. Maybe it was just the terrible fitment.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Please explain this? Do you mean that you were not happy with the install or is the fitment bad enough that you feel it affects the performance of the brakes in some way? Are you happy at all with the pedal feel?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GChambers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Please explain this? Do you mean that you were not happy with the install or is the fitment bad enough that you feel it affects the performance of the brakes in some way? Are you happy at all with the pedal feel?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bump for the same question.

RR/AX Forum has proven to be extremly helpfull, thank you all very much.

If i could just decide between panther plus or axxis

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GChambers &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Please explain this? Do you mean that you were not happy with the install or is the fitment bad enough that you feel it affects the performance of the brakes in some way? Are you happy at all with the pedal feel?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It was the install, and the host of problems that it created, mostly with destroyed fittings, having to replace brake pipes, and hemorraging brake fluid. Probably somewhat my fault, but getting my Russell Lines to seal properly with the double flare on the OE pipe was impossible.

As far as pedal feel, i never knew what it was like, since i never got a proper seal. I've since gone back to stock lines, and they're holding pressure, and my pedal is firm enough for me, imo. At this point i'm not at all eager to mess with a good thing, which is something i sometimes forget is great: factory spec.

 

Nice christmas present...MF yo te voy a lregalar un kit de iluminacion navideño para tu carro

 

Caracas represent y0...welcome

 

Marico....Brembo...pero no viene el kit armado pero ahi tienen todas las piezas.
brembo&gt;willwood

http://www.coximports.com

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

getting my Russell Lines to seal properly with the double flare on the OE pipe was impossible.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your problem was the Russell lines, they were known to have manufactured and shipped out a large number of defective fittings on lines 2-3 years ago. They should have been sent back to the manufacture, did you ever talk to the seller?