I want to replace my AEM short ram air intake on my H22 Prelude but i dont know if I should get a AEM CAI or the new V2. Price is not an issue I just want the better performing intake. Opinions, Facts, Bottom Lines...whats the deal HT's?

 

It's not worth it, waste of money.

I'm sure this topic has been discussed several times. Do a search on it.

 

so i should STick with what i have lol

 

If you have the money, get the AEM CAI. But if you want to save money, get an ebay CAI (just the piping) and throw a K&N filter on it.

Your short ram is not doing anything for your car. You're actually losing power since it's sucking up all the hot air.

 

God I wish people would stop spouting all the bullshit!!!

Repeat this as a mantra ...........

Short ram intakes do not suck up "hot" air!!!!

People have done repeated tests with this. They have taken air temp. readings for the intake air and the difference between a longer CAI and a short ram is maybe 1-2 degrees. We're talking the actual air that is in the intake plenum, not the temperature under the hood.

The velocity with which the air is pulled in negates any under-hood temperature difference from ambient. Magazines have tested this, and people on this board have tested this. And I'll take Sgt's testing and experimenting over everyone's armchair postulating any day.

Give it a break people ......... the only difference you will see from a short ram versus a CAI is the spike in the mid-range with the CAI. This is due to the harmonic resonance of the air traveling through the longer tube. You will see a 4-8 whp spike right around 4,000 rpms or so.

It has NOTHING to do with warmer air under the hood.

 

1-2 degrees is still a difference to me. Magazine tests can kiss my ***.

I still say CAI > Short ram

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sticky Tires &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1-2 degrees is still a difference to me. Magazine tests can kiss my ***.

I still say CAI &gt; Short ram </TD></TR></TABLE>

until it sucks water and ***** the engine up completely
I'd stick with short ram with a cold air blowing on the cone. howgh

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pentaq &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

until it sucks water and ***** the engine up completely
I'd stick with short ram with a cold air blowing on the cone. howgh</TD></TR></TABLE>

What are the chances of someone driving through a pond/lake?

Bypass valve owns you!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sticky Tires &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1-2 degrees is still a difference to me. Magazine tests can kiss my ***.

I still say CAI &gt; Short ram </TD></TR></TABLE>

Guess you are running 13:1 compression, Jun Type 3's, ITB's, an open header, and breaking the 10 second mark in the quarter, since that is the only situation where having a longer runner out of the engine actually makes the few degrees difference worth it. Otherwise, you just don't understand how the intakes work .......

Save the cash, clean your filter, or replace it with a K&N one, and be happy with the short ram. They work fine, and are much cheaper. Got mine for $106. The cheapest AEM CAI I could find was around $190.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TypeR0207 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Guess you are running 13:1 compression, Jun Type 3's, ITB's, an open header, and breaking the 10 second mark in the quarter, since that is the only situation where having a longer runner out of the engine actually makes the few degrees difference worth it. Otherwise, you just don't understand how the intakes work .......

Save the cash, clean your filter, or replace it with a K&N one, and be happy with the short ram. They work fine, and are much cheaper. Got mine for $106. The cheapest AEM CAI I could find was around $190.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How did you find out my set up?

My intake is stock.

 

How about the stock or type S intake arm/box ??

Ive noticed how just about all of the Type R guys keep the stock arm and box or upgrade to the mugen box and what have you. Just swap the filter element for something fantastic and away you go.

Most of the articles ive read say that the arm and box were designed with the best performance possible for the VTEC system, so why **** with it ? I can see it would probably kill some top end, but it would also give you a little more torque and better daily drivabilty with having some power where the h22 lacks, down low. (at least where MY h22 lacks ^_^)

 

TypeR0207, thank you.

for the $200+ you will spend on a different intake you will not get any significant power. There will be pretty much no advantage. Take the $200 and apply it to something else, like a decent header, save for cams etc..

 

while were on the subject of cai's ....... anybody know why my damn air/water bypass wont stay on

i really hate that thing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PRELUDE_SR_V &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">while were on the subject of cai's ....... anybody know why my damn air/water bypass wont stay on

i really hate that thing.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how effective are bypass valves anyway?? do they completly eliminate the chance of hydrolock??

sorry to jack your thread

 

the bypass system only works if the main filter element is COMPLETELY under water. otherwise no workie.

 

Screw it im just getting the damn V2, its only 200 on Ebay and will give me low and high range power gains due to the change in diameter of the pipe that gives you more sound resination points to pull the air through the piping evenly through out the rpm range, while my short ram only gives low range and the CAI only gives high range plus wid the V2 theres no question of water in the intake. The V2 also sounds SICK, looks nice and lets face it, you get what u pay for in the import market. When things cost more, like the V2 or even Mugen parts, your paying for the R&D that went into it. I've reviewed alot of engine applications for the V2 and how it performed on the dyno and it seems to squize at least 2 more hp out of the engine in the WHOLE rpm range. I just dont think you can knock it, not for 200 on Ebay when CAI go for 180. BOOOOYAAAAA!!!!

 

$100.00 per HP, ok.

its your money

 

I ment it gets 2 MORE HP over the CAI!

 

Thats 10 bucks per 1 HP slick. 200-180=20, 20/2=10hp=BOOOYAAAA

 

i ment 10 dollars lol ****

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swift1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Screw it im just getting the damn V2, its only 200 on Ebay and will give me low and high range power gains due to the change in diameter of the pipe that gives you more sound resination points to pull the air through the piping evenly through out the rpm range, while my short ram only gives low range and the CAI only gives high range plus wid the V2 theres no question of water in the intake. The V2 also sounds SICK, looks nice and lets face it, you get what u pay for in the import market. When things cost more, like the V2 or even Mugen parts, your paying for the R&D that went into it. I've reviewed alot of engine applications for the V2 and how it performed on the dyno and it seems to squize at least 2 more hp out of the engine in the WHOLE rpm range. I just dont think you can knock it, not for 200 on Ebay when CAI go for 180. BOOOOYAAAAA!!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>

well, i guess someone "bought" into the whole AEM spiel. Personally, i don't think the V2 is going to make your car any faster than a CAI, or even an SRI. I don't think it makes more whp, and i don't think it's worth 200 bucks. You do get what you pay for, but in this case what you're getting is a lot of psychological comfort from AEM, vs. real performance gains.

Is there really that much R&D that needs to be done on a 3" pipe with a filter on the end of it? I'm an engineer, so i know that yes, you can probably make a CAI better, but the ultimate constraints aren't with CAI design, they're probably a function of air flow through the TB, IM, and head.

Anyway, sometimes you can beat the game. Intakes are definitely one of those things that you can beat the game easily. Cheap turbo kits i'd stay away from. cheap shocks or coilovers, no way. but intakes? i think i could make a good one out of dryer hose and some tissue paper.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swift1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thats 10 bucks per 1 HP slick. 200-180=20, 20/2=10hp=BOOOYAAAA</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hey, slick, are you buying a $20 intake, or do you think it's going to give you 20 hp??

 

also you got that mixed up a bit. CAI's dont give you more up top as it takes longer for tha air to travel through the intake since it is about 4 feet long now. whatever floats your boat man. You can waste your 200 bucks if you want. Whatever helps you sleep at night.

 

tisk, tisk, tisk bad money. I am an engineering assistant right now at a P&W repair station and if i know anything its that quality takes precidence over quantity so u go right ahead and stick some toilet paper in a jet engine and see what ur VP says. When the price of the V2 goes down u'll all be like YAAAA V2s are awesome. Its ok i understand money is always an issue so i wont waste time writtin up a comeback that will try and make u spend money that can be better used, the issue at hand is performance and V2 wins.

 

Hey, slick, are you buying a $20 intake, or do you think it's going to give you 20 hp??

I said.... lol that its a 20 dollar difference between an AEM CAI and V2 on Ebay and the V2 gives 2 more hp. Im sayings its worth the extra 20 bucks.