My steering wheel vibrates as a step on the brakes to slow down.

I just changed the two front rotors and pads.

I had problems getting the pedals to get firm. I removed the sliding bolts that were rusted in the caliper bracket. Apparently who ever did the brakes before didn't put grease on the two sliding bolts before putting them back in. The firmness came back to the pedel once I did that.

What else could cause me to feel that pulsating on Steering wheel while braking?

 

I also have been getting that, but only at high speeds (over 50mph). Sometimes when you torque your lug nuts to much that can cause a problem, although it didnt work for me. What kind of pads and rotors did you put on?

 

I am using honda parts from Honda. I also bleed the system using the cross bleed steps.

 

Is the toe off?
Are the tires balanced?

 

Every thing is aligned. It starts to pulsate at about 40mph

 

you checked your alighnment at all

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abeaujuin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Every thing is aligned. It starts to pulsate at about 40mph</TD></TR></TABLE>

you sure did check it! sounds like you may need to balance the tires

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95Accordster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you checked your alighnment at all</TD></TR></TABLE>

He answered that when I asked him about the toe being off. Please read.

 

since this just happened when u made the changes in the fronts. it's highly likely that rotors were warped due to manufacturing defect. this happened to me dude when i put on 4 new crossed drilled powerslot rotors and it started vibrating right away when i brake at all speed. go get a refund or exchange the rotors.

 

Warped rotors will cause this...Did you seat the pads before you started driving hard? ( break in period) If you get on them too hard too soon they will warp from too much friction.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nathan atwell &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Warped rotors will cause this...Did you seat the pads before you started driving hard? ( break in period) If you get on them too hard too soon they will warp from too much friction.</TD></TR></TABLE>

How long is the average break-in period for brake pads anyways?

 

The problems were the rotors. I just brought these sloted and drilled rotors from Nopi and it was warped. I got some cheap ones from autozone, and it worked fine. I didn't even had to break anything in. As soon as I stepped on the breaks at about 60mph, the car slowed down correctly without pulsating.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by abeaujuin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The problems were the rotors. I just brought these sloted and drilled rotors from Nopi and it was warped. I got some cheap ones from autozone, and it worked fine. I didn't even had to break anything in. As soon as I stepped on the breaks at about 60mph, the car slowed down correctly without pulsating.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, but DO break in the pads. What will happen if you don't "Seat" or "Bed" them is they will settle on an angle and wear unevenly. This will cause a shorter pad life and increased friction and that can lead to more warped rotors under harder braking....and you only have to break hard one time to warp them...like coming down a long hill or mountain. im glad you got it figured out though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaracin24 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

How long is the average break-in period for brake pads anyways? </TD></TR></TABLE>

ABout 500 miles.

 

not 100% true

to true ly "bed" the brakes, it can be done in a few miles

1 - get the brakes to operating temps - do some 60-45 (mph) slow stops to bring the rotors to temp (3-5)

2 - "bed" the brakes - do some fairly firm stops from 60-10 (preferable a long straight section of road) ... just short of an panicked ABS invoking stop - 8-9 of these

3 - "cool" drive around and not use the brakes (obviously use them if the situation requires) for a few miles, using them as necessary. when parking, do not use the e-brake until the brakes have sufficiently cooled (can lead pad deposits on the rotors)

this will properly mate the pad to the rotor surface,


this is an excerpt from http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm zeckhausen racing

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -Bionic- &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

He answered that when I asked him about the toe being off. Please read.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, YOU read. He never specified if the tires were balanced

 

okay...here my question to you, does the steering wheel vibrate when you get up to freeway/hwy speed and it gets worse when you tap on the stopper?

1)tire balance(if it shakes all the time)
2)warp rotor(only shake when you use the brake at hwy speed, it have some sort of purse feeling to it)
3)does it rubs when you go over big bump/dip or parking lot entrance? check the tie rods

there's different way to bed in a new brake pad, most company will sell you the pad along with the instruction. Follow that, it's not universal.

 

Sounds like Pad deposition.
see here for more information
http://www.stoptech.com/faq/data/faq25.htm

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by marinakorp &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not 100% true

to true ly "bed" the brakes, it can be done in a few miles

1 - get the brakes to operating temps - do some 60-45 (mph) slow stops to bring the rotors to temp (3-5)

2 - "bed" the brakes - do some fairly firm stops from 60-10 (preferable a long straight section of road) ... just short of an panicked ABS invoking stop - 8-9 of these

3 - "cool" drive around and not use the brakes (obviously use them if the situation requires) for a few miles, using them as necessary. when parking, do not use the e-brake until the brakes have sufficiently cooled (can lead pad deposits on the rotors)

this will properly mate the pad to the rotor surface,


this is an excerpt from http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm zeckhausen racing</TD></TR></TABLE>

How many pads/rotors have you broken in? Me? Last year I want through six (6) sets of front rotors before I got the "PROPER" procedure down...Didn't see as much track time as id liked to. Its not something you can go out and do in few minutes...brakes or anything that needs break in time is like a making love to a woman (or man, depending on your, uhhumm, sexual preference...J/K) soft and gentle at first. warm her up a little bit for a while and then GIVE'R HELL!!!! Just joking...but IAM7HEAD is right. Different rotors/pads from different companies have differing compositions so the process will vary....SO, Contact the manufacturer and ask them the proper technique for THEIR product. Happy braking.

 

ok. i have the same problem. i had shudder and vibration when braking at highway speeds, so i changed my pads and rotors. the rotors were premium munroe ones from canadian tire (i live in the GTA).

anyways. after the change, the vibrations (and steering wheel shake) are still there at highways speeds. the tires are balanced, and i had an alignment done since the rotor swap. when the front end is lifted up and i spin the wheels by hand, the driver's side has much more resistance (and it isnt even resistance), than the passenger side. also there is a bit of a ticking noise coming from i guess the pad retainer spring thingies. i greased the slider bolts before putting everything back together so i dont think they are the culprits.

so does this mean that i have a defective (warped) rotor on my driver's side? or maybe the hub is slightly out of true for some reason or another? or could it be that the caliper piston doesnt more as freely as it should causing a bit of binding?

what should i try next. i am considering just taking it to honda and getting the rotor machined on the car, but then they're probably gonna want to put new pads and ill be walking out of there at least 300 bucks later. im a poor student

i tried to search this topic, and this seems to be the best place to post my question. thanks guys.

94 accord lx, 220,000 km (137,000 mi)