**** Yes, another flat black thread.... searched and summed up a few questions... thanks
i think i might paint the crx tomorrow... i was going to wait it out and have it done professionally but the more i think about it... this is my beater... i am bound to hit a tree if i keep yanking the ebrake.... and i'm poor... so why pay $500-$800 for a decent paint job?
After an hour or so of searching the archives i came to a few suggestions as to the preferred DIY method of flat blacking a car and i wanted some input...
Go to Lowe's (i'll be there at 6:30am working anyway, damn it) and buy a quart of Rust-Oleum flat black paint.... mix 60% paint with 40% thinner (anyone know what kind specifically?) and spray it using a gun. costs about $25 total.
go to walmart, buy 97 cent per can flat black colorfast paint and go nuts. (done this once... pain in the *** and it is VERY hard to get it "even" without spots... not to mention the roof, soooo annoying) costs about $30 total.
DupliColor flat black.... gettin expensive now.... can't justify spending that much on a rattle can paint job....
go to John Deer store and buy a gallon bucket of blitz black.... cost $25. still unsure of whether or not i have to mix this paint with anything and if it can/should be cleared.
go to Maaco... pay $500 to have car and jams done... suck my **** maaco.
none of these methods include a clear coat. problem? i'm leaning towards the john deer blitz black since that's what many of the old hot rodders use.... but then again, i work at lowe's and that would be pretty convenient and cheaper once i take into account my discount.
ok so what do you think? hints? suggestions? ideas?
i'm looking for constructive comments... from people who have been there done that "first hand" i don't care if your cousin's neighbor's friend's mom's uncle's dog got hit by a car driven by the sister of a man who's car was flat black.... i want first hand experiance on this one. like i said i've gone the colorfast rattle can method once and although it looked good once "done" it cost about $30 for JUST the paint and it took quite a while because of the stupid nozzle on the cans.... not to mention it's next to impossible to get the roof to look "perfect" with a rattle can....
-Erik <--- will probably do this saturday and sunday if i can find someone local with a compressor i can borrow
__________________
After an hour or so of searching the archives i came to a few suggestions as to the preferred DIY method of flat blacking a car and i wanted some input...
Go to Lowe's (i'll be there at 6:30am working anyway, damn it) and buy a quart of Rust-Oleum flat black paint.... mix 60% paint with 40% thinner (anyone know what kind specifically?) and spray it using a gun. costs about $25 total.
go to walmart, buy 97 cent per can flat black colorfast paint and go nuts. (done this once... pain in the *** and it is VERY hard to get it "even" without spots... not to mention the roof, soooo annoying) costs about $30 total.
DupliColor flat black.... gettin expensive now.... can't justify spending that much on a rattle can paint job....
go to John Deer store and buy a gallon bucket of blitz black.... cost $25. still unsure of whether or not i have to mix this paint with anything and if it can/should be cleared.
go to Maaco... pay $500 to have car and jams done... suck my **** maaco.
none of these methods include a clear coat. problem? i'm leaning towards the john deer blitz black since that's what many of the old hot rodders use.... but then again, i work at lowe's and that would be pretty convenient and cheaper once i take into account my discount.
ok so what do you think? hints? suggestions? ideas?
i'm looking for constructive comments... from people who have been there done that "first hand" i don't care if your cousin's neighbor's friend's mom's uncle's dog got hit by a car driven by the sister of a man who's car was flat black.... i want first hand experiance on this one. like i said i've gone the colorfast rattle can method once and although it looked good once "done" it cost about $30 for JUST the paint and it took quite a while because of the stupid nozzle on the cans.... not to mention it's next to impossible to get the roof to look "perfect" with a rattle can....
-Erik <--- will probably do this saturday and sunday if i can find someone local with a compressor i can borrow
__________________
Use the stock paint as a primer as it will protect the body from rust/moisture etc..
It you sand down the body to metal and spray on flat paint without clear the water will seep in the paint and eventually rust your car to ****..
So either use the stock paint(free) as a primer coat/protective coat or use some sort of expoxy sealer(expensive) under the flat paint..
Or you could just use some sort of flat or matte clear coat..I know a guy with a rat rod and he has a flat black paint job but he used a matte clear coat..its still falt lookin but its protected..
It you sand down the body to metal and spray on flat paint without clear the water will seep in the paint and eventually rust your car to ****..
So either use the stock paint(free) as a primer coat/protective coat or use some sort of expoxy sealer(expensive) under the flat paint..
Or you could just use some sort of flat or matte clear coat..I know a guy with a rat rod and he has a flat black paint job but he used a matte clear coat..its still falt lookin but its protected..
thanks for your advice....
any comments as to which shape/form/fashion of paint to go with? and what clear, if any, i need to use?
any comments as to which shape/form/fashion of paint to go with? and what clear, if any, i need to use?
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