I had the timing belt and water pump replaced on my 92 Accord EX (200,000 miles), and now the car has a "vibration" when driven in a 35mph or 45mph zone (driving slow with the auto transmission in OD and the engine turning approx. 1800rpm). This "vibration" disappears with the addition of a slight amount of throttle, and the car runs smooth as always at highway speeds (55mph-70mph). I've had the engine timing rechecked, and replaced my spark plugs & wires, but still this "vibration" is still there! Has anyone here had a similar experience, and could offer me some much needed advice?

Thanks,
Chris Hutchinson
Mooresville, NC

 

I think the likely culprit is that they didn't line up the balance shaft belt quite right. This wouldn't affect your timing belt and explains why it runs fine but vibrates. Does the vibration seem to change with the RPM, even with the car in neutral?

I also know the 94 EX (not sure on you 92) has an electric engine mount behind the intake manifold that changes in firmness at different RPMs as well. Could have gotten damaged when they slightly lowered the motor to get the belt cover off. I agree with you, something probably happen while they were working on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the likely culprit is that they didn't line up the balance shaft belt quite right. This wouldn't affect your timing belt and explains why it runs fine but vibrates. Does the vibration seem to change with the RPM, even with the car in neutral?

I also know the 94 EX (not sure on you 92) has an electric engine mount behind the intake manifold that changes in firmness at different RPMs as well. Could have gotten damaged when they slightly lowered the motor to get the belt cover off. I agree with you, something probably happen while they were working on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

An update...I've found that if you pull the vacum hose off the EGR valve, and plug the hose with a screw (there was good vacum on the tube, so the EGR port in the intake isn't clogged)...The engine again runs smooth, no "vibration" problem at all, but the Check Engine light, lights up...So I thought I had found the problem...Purchased a new EGR valve and installed it, and guess what, the "vibration" is still there...A local shop had a used Emission Control Box (Black plastic box mounted on the firewall) that contains the selinod for the EGR valve that he loaned me to try...Installed it and again the "vibration" is still there...Reinstalled the old Emission Control Box, and I think the problem may be the Emission Computer located on the passenger side floorboard firewall, that controls the electric selinolds for the EGR valve...The cars battery was unhooked to do the timing belt change, and maybe the computer didn't reset itself...The local shop hooked his hand-held test computer up and said the Gear Selector indicator was supposed to display a flashing light code, but nothing happened...Said this was a sign of the cars computer being BAD, and a used computer could be purchased for approx. $125...Should I try this or just "bite the bullet" and take the car to a dealer to fix?...Does anyone have any experience with a problem like this?

Thanks,
Chris Hutchinson
Mooresville, NC

 

Try pulling the car out of OD. At that speed the trans is running in OD and lockup. The car will exibit a vibration till you tip in the throttle and pull the converter out of lock up. I have seen this quite a bit on high milage Accords and Odysseys.
For the Oddysseys the factory can install an updated ECU, for the accords........Some have replaced the mounts and have had pretty good success....and some haven't.(this is if the T/belt and ALL timing marks have been installed CORRECTLY!)

 

Timing belt will not effect emission/how the engine runs. You got a direct timing/balance shaft belt problem or a busted engine mount as I described earlier. I'd take it back to whoever worked on it, they screwed it up they fix it. You gotta crack the whip and play hardball with them. Don't let them jerk you around. You got any questions send it by here before you shell out any more dough.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Schmitey &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think the likely culprit is that they didn't line up the balance shaft belt quite right. This wouldn't affect your timing belt and explains why it runs fine but vibrates. Does the vibration seem to change with the RPM, even with the car in neutral?

I also know the 94 EX (not sure on you 92) has an electric engine mount behind the intake manifold that changes in firmness at different RPMs as well. Could have gotten damaged when they slightly lowered the motor to get the belt cover off. I agree with you, something probably happen while they were working on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

As Schmitey said... it's VERY likely the balance shafts. The h22 f22 engines have 2 balance shafts that smooth the running of the engine at higher revs. When the timing belt was changed they would have <U>had</U> to take the balancers belt off. If they didn't line both the balancer shafts right, the engine will vibrate like ****. Take it back to the shop and tell them. The '92 doesn't have an electric engine mount

 

Thanks for the replies...I've spoke to another mechanic today, and as soon as I described how my car "quivers" under acceleration at around 1800 rpm, and how the "quiver" goes away if I pull the vacum line off the EGR valve and plug it...He told me that probably several of the EGR Ports in the manifold are clogged...This causes all of the engine gases to be sent to only one or two cylinders when the EGR valve opens at 1800 rpm causing the "misfire"...I'm thinking the "quiver" showing up after the timing belt installation could have been caused by the use of the air impact wrench used to loosen the bolt in the crankshaft pulley could have loosened some ash in the EGR manifold and clogged a hole or two...The mechanic told me this clogging problem is common for this model Accord...He will look at the car Friday and we'll know.

Thanks,
Chris Hutchinson
Mooresville, NC

 

http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf

This should help out

 

Just out of curiosity who is this mechanic, the dealorship? Sounds like a load of BS to me. In rebuilding two cylinder heads and taking tons of EGR/intake stuff apart I've never heard of or experienced anything like that. Like I said play hardball and make it know that you aren't gonna leave until the problem is fixed...and you're certainly not gonna give them anymore money.