I have a negative camber on my car i was wondering what camber kit would be a good one for my money. i just quit my job so i have no money so leave some suggestions if you would like

 

hate to be search cop.....but search. there was a real good thread about the skunk2 and omni kits, and there are lots of posts about ingallas and other type kits.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Racermech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hate to be search cop.....but search. there was a real good thread about the skunk2 and omni kits, and there are lots of posts about ingallas and other type kits.</TD></TR></TABLE>

officer you speak the truth

 

Sorry I did the search but my computer wont go to it i tried everything to get to it but i couldnt get there so im sorry i tried but my computer is garbage..

 

omnipower kits are just about identical to the skunk2's, but much less expensive. I'm gettin a set in a few weeks once my car goes down just in time for winter

 

Give me a call, email, pm and I will quote you a price on camber kits. We are one of the largest camber kit dealers in the country. Check us out at http://www.camberkit.com We deal many, many other products as well.

 

skunk2 v2

 

i'm not a big fan of the ingallas style. skunk2 and other such kits are the way to go

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flow_azn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a negative camber on my car i was wondering what camber kit would be a good one for my money. i just quit my job so i have no money so leave some suggestions if you would like</TD></TR></TABLE>

Negative camber is not always a bad thing. Unless you have more than -3 it's probably helping your handling considerably. Get a 4-wheel alignment so that the toe will be set to factory specs, rotate your tires every 3K-5K miles and you should be fine.

 

the ingall styles are not recommended but are cheap.

they work. but they also creates dents under the hood area. cauzing ur paint to crack.

ingalls extends the arm a little and that causes the whatchamacallit to hit.

 

Replacement upper control arm bolts (a la Ingalls) pushes the whole upper control arm outward to reduce negative camber. This can cause the control arm to hit the metal seam up under the fender when the suspension gets fully compressed. Some people hammer the seam to make it flat.

I really don't care for that idea and will probably get Omnipower complete upper control arms.

 

both, the Skunk2 and Omni upper control arms also hit the seams (if you're riding low enough). their locking bolts protrude far enough to make indentations. i don't know if the Skunk2 v2 is doing this or not .. i haven't checked (i'm riding with zero wheel-well gap) to see if my v2's are hitting or not .. but looking up at them, it is pretty far up in the wheel well. i'll see if i can take a pic to show you what i mean.

but the difference w/ the skunk2 original camber kit and the v2 is that the locking bolts were moved to the underside of the lock plate (so tightening is done from the underside of the arm as opposed to the top side - you have to remove the wheel now to lock it). the design change was supposedly made to reduce the chances of slipping .. so far, i haven't had any problems.

 

I have the Skunk 2 as well, and I really like them. I have never had any problems with them hitting, and my car used to be tucking all the way to the rims in the front. I would recommend this kit highly.