my b20 is overheating!!!! pleez help
ok i have a b20 vtec and it is overheating, i still have my stock dx radiator but it was never overheating for the 6 months i had the swap in untill now. I noticed that there is sum gunk/ kinda mudd looking stuff inside of my coolant overflow tank, and dont know if thats the problem or not, last time i took it to my mechanic, he said it was the radiator cap seal broke, and he replaced the thermostat, and it ran fine for a bout 2 or 3 weeks, no its overheating again, i felt the top radiator house and its hot with fluid in it . . . . . i dunno whats wrong
?
also on a side not, but distributor cap and rotor have busted twice now? just today on of my plug holes on the cap where the spark plug wire goes in, just cracked off, and i was only running on 3 cylinders, i got the cap and rotor from autozone, the last time it cracked was because the screw that holds the rotor onto the distributor shaft came off and got shot threw the housing of the cap, i think thats might of what happend again? if anyone knows anyting about that problem let me know
thanx a bunch
? also on a side not, but distributor cap and rotor have busted twice now? just today on of my plug holes on the cap where the spark plug wire goes in, just cracked off, and i was only running on 3 cylinders, i got the cap and rotor from autozone, the last time it cracked was because the screw that holds the rotor onto the distributor shaft came off and got shot threw the housing of the cap, i think thats might of what happend again? if anyone knows anyting about that problem let me know
thanx a bunch
cmon people, i need some help with this, its very frustrating. the car will stop overheating when i put water in through the radiator cap, if that specifies the issue any . . . . . :/
ok, i'll try and help you on this one. just follow my steps....
1- replace your cap and rotor with OEM honda parts.
2- drain your coolant from your radiator and your block. flush the entire cooling system with a garden hose for a good 3-5 minutes, until it runs clear out the block.
3- have your radiator tested at a reputable radiator shop. have them pressure test it and evaulate the condition of the radiator.
4- (assuming the radiator is ok) fill the system with OEM Honda coolant, or a mix of whatever brand coolant you like.
5- BLEED THE SYSTEM PROPERLY. if you don't know how to do this, keep reading... get a radiator funnel or make one. something that fits in the radiator neck, and holds a reserve of coolant. i use a honda brake fluid bottle with the bottom chopped off, and the neck wrapped slightly in electrical tape to ensure a good seal. then, i fill the system, and keep the brake fluid bottle topped off.
switch the climate control to the hottest setting, and don't turn the blower motor on. just make sure the heater valve is open.
pinch off the hose going to the overflow tank with a set of pinch pliers. then start the car, let it idle and as the bubbles flow, continue to top off the brake fluid bottle. keep doing this until the cooling fan kicks on twice. it could take up to 30 minutes. just be patient.
after doing this, if it still acts up.. i'd look into a headgasket if i were you. i've just seen too many people with "overheating motors", yet they don't know how to properly bleed a cooling system. this is crucial.
if your problems still persist after this, hit me up. we'll go from there.
1- replace your cap and rotor with OEM honda parts.
2- drain your coolant from your radiator and your block. flush the entire cooling system with a garden hose for a good 3-5 minutes, until it runs clear out the block.
3- have your radiator tested at a reputable radiator shop. have them pressure test it and evaulate the condition of the radiator.
4- (assuming the radiator is ok) fill the system with OEM Honda coolant, or a mix of whatever brand coolant you like.
5- BLEED THE SYSTEM PROPERLY. if you don't know how to do this, keep reading... get a radiator funnel or make one. something that fits in the radiator neck, and holds a reserve of coolant. i use a honda brake fluid bottle with the bottom chopped off, and the neck wrapped slightly in electrical tape to ensure a good seal. then, i fill the system, and keep the brake fluid bottle topped off.
switch the climate control to the hottest setting, and don't turn the blower motor on. just make sure the heater valve is open.
pinch off the hose going to the overflow tank with a set of pinch pliers. then start the car, let it idle and as the bubbles flow, continue to top off the brake fluid bottle. keep doing this until the cooling fan kicks on twice. it could take up to 30 minutes. just be patient.
after doing this, if it still acts up.. i'd look into a headgasket if i were you. i've just seen too many people with "overheating motors", yet they don't know how to properly bleed a cooling system. this is crucial.
if your problems still persist after this, hit me up. we'll go from there.
damn man, thanks for all the help, im gonna have to try this ASAP! but when you were talkin about filling the brake fluid bottle to the top, do u mean just having coolant filled to the top of it or what ?
also how expensive is it to replace a headgasket ?
also how expensive is it to replace a headgasket ?
basically, the brake fluid bottle is taking up any excess space in the cooling system, and allowing a space for the bubbes to leave the system.
the headgasket labor is like 3 hours or so. the headgasket itself is like $75.00, plus labor, and more coolant.
the headgasket labor is like 3 hours or so. the headgasket itself is like $75.00, plus labor, and more coolant.
**** thats alot money, is it hard to change a headgasket yourself ? probably if it takes 3 hours, ok so when i have the brake fluid bottle in the radiator hole with the brake fluid bottle full of coolant, and its done bubbling, how do i get the bottle out of the radiator, w/o coolant spilling everywhere from the bottle . .. . . . ?
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also today when i was flushing the cooling system with a hose, i put the hose in the top radiator hose, and had the bottom one off, and it wouldnt pump through, so i had to secure it to the hose, so it would build pressure and send flush the system, maybe its cuz i didnt do it the right way now that i think about it . . . . mmmmmm help meeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
good news i think i fixed my overheating, the mugen radiator cap was bunk i think, cuz i put back on my oem radiator cap and it hasnt overheated at all on to and from work, and just driving around town! , but i have a question, the other day my rotor and cap busted, and i was only running on 3 cylinders for like 15 miles, so im wondering if cuz it wasnt firing but still driving, that there is a lot of extra gas in my chamber? or my spark plug got drenched in gas, because it isnt firing up to well, like itll fire, then bog, is this because theres gas in the combustion chamber ? let me know ASAP ! should i change out my plugs or what?
bump cuz its still overheating, i flushed the system and its still overheating, my resivoir tank is really dark fluid? what does that mean, it has gunk in it too ....
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mingbling96
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antifreeze, b20, b20b, coolant, extra, hole, holes, lots, overheating, plug, pressure, purge, radiator, thermostat, vtec




